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#1
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I don't want to run my depth finders off of the starting battery.
Is there a way of charging a separate battery for the electronics with the motor, but not allow the starting motor to draw power from the electronics battery? If I start the motor with the electronics turned on it scrambles the depth finders programing and I have to reprogram them. Some kind if circuit that uses diodes to charge the electronic battery? Pooch
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“In my circle of old friends there is no clear line between religion and walleye fishing” A little variation from the opening scene of the movie A River Runs Through It Last edited by perchjerker; 07-17-2012 at 02:51 PM. |
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#2
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what you're looking for is a DC-charger, like this http://store.minnkotamotors.com/prod...C_%281_bank%29
which starts to charge the accessory battery after the starting battery is topped off. HRG
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"I've got a car with a trailer hitch, and a pocket full of money. Do you want to sell that boat today, or not?" My Mentor, Bill Michalek, circa 1975 |
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#3
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One of the simplest ways is with a combiner:
http://www.yandina.com/c100InfoR3.htm An isolator will work too, but the wiring is a little different. Both of these methods only work on batteries with common grounds. The Minn Kota chargers have isolated outputs. Jerry |
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#4
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Blue Sea Systems ADD a Battery Kit with ACR and starting isolation. Easy install and works really well.
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2011 Alumacraft Dominator 185sp 140 Suzuki.HDS 5&7 with Structure Scan 80lb Terrova with Ipilot |
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#5
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I think the OP actually may have a weak starting battery dropping to a low enough voltage to scramble the electronics. Just my opinion
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#6
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Pooch,
The simplest thing to do is to simply add an extra battery to your boat and connect the battery to your electronics and to an additional on board battery charger. An extra battery will easily power all of any boats electronics for 24 hours. I assume that you typically plug in your current on board charger every 24 hours. So, have the additional on board charger wired into your current AC line feed, and charge the additional battery when you are charging the rest of the batteries in the boat. No need to involve or reason to get the main starting motor and its alternator involved with the electronics battery. REW |
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#7
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If you have a 2 +2 system (two for cranking/electronics and two for 24 volt trolling motor) and a three bank charger, do you have to add an additional charger or bank if you have 2 x 12 volt batteries hooked up in parallel to power your electronics and engine? Doesn't the one bank hooked to battery #1 (that is connected to battery #2) feed both?
Battery 1 and 2 in parallel (12 volts) with one bank from charger. Battery 3 and 4 in series (24 volts) with two banks from charger.
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Scott Keeley NPAA# 413 |
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#8
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do you have to add an additional charger or bank if you have 2 x 12 volt batteries hooked up in parallel to power your electronics and engine? Doesn't the one bank hooked to battery #1 (that is connected to battery #2) feed both?
You will be fine with a three bank and can monitor the voltage on your HDS's.Minn330d has worked with mine.
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2011 Alumacraft Dominator 185sp 140 Suzuki.HDS 5&7 with Structure Scan 80lb Terrova with Ipilot |
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#9
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either use a onboard charger when you get home or you can buy one of these marine rated isolators.
[url]http://www.iboats.com/Volvo-Penta-Isolators/dm/cart_id.898639806--session_id.299138175--view_id.271021[/url |
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