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#1
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So, I have never changed the races or bearings before, but wanted to learn.
So I watched vids on Youttube, and asked people who I knew were knowledgable, and got all the info I could. I believe for the most part I have the process down, but I have a heck of a time putting in the races without at least scratching them with the punch. Does anyone have any tips? I put two different sets into my hub, and currently the ones that are in there do have a couple of small scores on them. It is not as though I am really scoring them, you have to look at them at the right angle to see that it is there, and you can just barely feel it if you run your nail over it. WHen I am punching, I take it slow, and do really well, but usually when ensuring it is seated, the punch will slip a bit and then just lightly touch the race. I guess maybe I could try to keep my punch squarer and true it up when it gets a bit banged up. I don't know at this point, maybe I should just pay someone to do it for me. How much mileage will I get out of the current set up? |
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#2
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Got a princess auto near you? Get a race install tool. I swear by brass punches myself. Brass is soft enough it won't scratch steel.
Another trick is to use the old race, turn it over and use it to get the new race most of the way in. |
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#3
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Or,
Use a socket or piece of pipe that fits over the race, but will still fit inside the axle hole. I NEVER use a punch to install a race. Just too easy to put the race in crooked or scratch the race. REW or: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...2354/C0374.oap http://www.ebay.com/itm/BALL-BEARING...item43b218ee8c http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Tools-Be...ring+installer |
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#4
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p.s.
To ease your job, use a good torch to heat up the hub. Put your races into the freezer over night and leave them there until you are all ready to install the races. Then, use a propane torch to nicely heat the hub up. Now, take the frozen race and drop it into the hub. The combination of the heated hub (which expands the hub) and the frozen race ( which shrinks the race) generally means that the races pretty well drop into place with little to no extra pounding or tapping. It is still a good idea to have a bearing installation tool, socket or pipe of the correct diameter, because as soon as you drop the race into the hub, it begins to heat. You need to work very quickly to insure that the race is fully seated into the hub by use of the bearing installation tool, or socket or correctly sized pipe. Be safe REW |
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#5
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#6
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Wow, great suggestions. My dad told me to get a brass punch.
Will the heating be hard on the hub at all, leading to premature wear or anything? I really like that idea if it works. Thanks for the help. |
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#7
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Quote:
Use the brass punch like your dad told you. that race installer mentioned works very well too
__________________
Mary had a little pig, She kept it fat and mellow. And when the price of pork went up, Dad shot the little fellow. Mary had a little pig. Her father shot it dead. Now it goes to school with her, Between two hunks of bread. |
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#8
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Quote:
Paul |
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#9
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Also when you buy the race install tools (good idea) also buy a bearing packer. They don`t cost much and beats trying to pound the grease in on your palm. It looks like two funnels that screw together. Wiredog
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#10
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Big,
If you heat the hub and freeze the bearing, it will cause 0 issues. No, normally it is not necessary to do this, but if you want to ease the job, give the freeze -- heat a try. As one of the previous posts suggested, when you go go put the race in, you have about 1-2 seconds to get the race fully seated. As soon as the frozen race hits the heated hub, the race will begin to heat and expand. Otherwise, the bearing installers work very well. Be safe REW |
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