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#1
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I bought a 98 Warrior 1891 this spring and had a new I Pilot installed. I put in all new batteries about 6 weeks ago. I have been using the boat and everything was working fine until friday. I was moving a short distance and used the fast button on the remote. I had travelled about 75 yards when the trolling motor just stopped. I could not get it to turn back on. The battery indicator on the front of the boat shows good charge in the starting battery, however it doe not indicate anything on battery number 2 (trolling battery). I checked the batteries and they all have a charge. Is this a blown fuse or something bigger? If it is a fuse, where are they located? Thanks.
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#2
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Did you install a breaker between the batteries and the motor? If so, and it has a reset did you do the reset?
If not, I'd call one of their authorized service centers and get them to help you diagnose over the phone. |
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#3
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Do you still have the foot peddle controls? Have you tried it with the foot peddle? Sorry, starting with the obvious. No offense. I think you can still plug in the ole fashioned controls and try again so I was told by a boat dealership earlier today. I was looking at upgrading a V2 to the Ipilot and asked the question.
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#4
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Some manufacturers use a glass inline fuse in the trolling motor harness. It almost looks like a plug and it has a spare fuse in it.
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#5
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Word of caution. This very thing happened to me last week. Hit the rabbit running to another spot and poof it dies. Didn't think I drained the battery but was headed in anyways. Got home unpluged the motor and checked for voltage at the outlet-Nothing-so check the fuse-there's one 30 amp on each POS battery terminal. One was popped so just reset it and got voltage back at the outlet. Went out the next day, went to plug in the trolling motor and about got fried. The plug just about welded itself to the outlet. Still had 24v at the outlet so figured it had to be at the plug end.Ruined both connections so bought a 12/24/36v kit at westmarine and proceded to replace them. What happened was the dealer used cheep connecters on the plug end and squeezed them together with shrink tube. They must of broke the seal crimping cause a sharp corner melted through to the other wire and welded them together. The size wire was correct and the new kit eliminates crimped connections and has worked well. Wasn't ready to have the crap scared out of me at 6am. Hopefully this saves it from happening to you.
__________________
2011 Alumacraft Dominator 185sp 140 Suzuki.HDS 5&7 with Structure Scan 80lb Terrova with Ipilot |
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#6
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You hAve a bigger problem and that is the wiring to the trolling motor you will have to go up in wire sizre because the draw from the new trolling motor is so great. in the older boats the need for heavier wire was not needed now it is check with minnkota I had to go up to 6 gage my boat had 10 and was blowning fuses all the time. check the wiring then replace and go up in fuse size
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#7
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Thank you to all that replied to my problem. I just got a call from the mechanic and he said that there was a circuit breaker on the cable next to the battery that had tripped. I did not see it when I looked. Obviously, I am not mechanically inclined! Thanks again to everyone and good luck on the water.
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#8
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that is just what I was going to tell you.
__________________
"When everything else fails read the directions" |
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#9
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I would still look into the wiring if the wire is too small it will blow again from the wire heating up run the motor then feel the wire you will probably feel it is getting hot
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#10
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With apparently both fuses/breakers blown (meter and motor) and a newly installed motor they were likely under rated. You should have a 50A breaker in the motor link. Since the battery monitor link is really not drawing current unless you press/flip the switch I am puzzled why it should be blown. What amp rating was this fuse?
Last edited by PRD1; 08-09-2012 at 11:08 AM. Reason: typo |
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