Stainless Steel Prop and Speed

[yarcraft91]

Originally Posted by AllenW

Somebody wanna show me the specs on before and after with the same pitch/diameter/etc props, especially in the 150 and under class.

Not so sure you'll see that much difference.

Al

I compared stainless and aluminum props on a 120 2-stroke and a 50 4-stroke. I saw no material difference in hole shot or top speed in either case. I still run the stainless on the 120. Went to a 4-blade Mercury aluminum on the 50, which performs better than the 3-blade stainless I had on it before.

[mtwarrior]

As an earlier post stated, a SS prop will hold the water better, which will allow you to trim the motor higher, which provideds more bow lift, which ultimatley, gives you more ( higher) top speed.
Add a jack plate to a good SS prop and the added leverage on the hull and ability to run less of the lower unit in the water will also give you more topend. You need to be running the right SS prop of course, and some boats (ie..1898Warrior) don't care about the jackplate on them, they want that motor as low as possible. Depends on the hull, I had a 17'6" Sylvan with a 150 Mariner Magnum EFI, 19p Stilletto prop, CMC jackplate, was a 50 mph tin can, that bow and hull would air out and ride on the last couple feet of that tin hull, wind would blow down off the hills and I could feel that boat moving sideways. little wild.lol. 1790 Warrior with same prop and jackplate as the Sylvan liked the jackplate, 50-52 mph, bow up, hull aired out.
It all comes down to some tinkering and trying different props, I've been running Precision Propeller Stilletos for a few years and for the money, ($369 out of Overtons for a 14.25X19 or 21p) it's hard to beat, Precision also makes Turbo SS props which is an old mainstay in the 70-80's perf boat crowd, and they still have great running props for todays boats. They also have 4 blade props in even numbered pitches. Checkem out. Removable, interchangeable hubs also, change motors, just buy a new hub for the same prop.
We'll see how the new Stratos 326XF / Evinrude 225 HO / 15 HO kicker/ runs with a 21p 4 blade Cyclone BRP prop and 8.5 inches of set back from a Bob's Machine Shop Hyd. JackPlate.

[REW]

Allen
X10

If you have a very good aluminum prop that is matched to your boat and motor - you likely won't see much of a difference when going to a well matched stainless prop.

But, the one big thing that you gain with a stainless prop is toughness.

If you have a low speed bottom strike with an aluminum prop, you will likely need a new prop or a trip to a repair shop.

But with a low speed bottom strike with a good stainless prop, you will likely notice no difference at all and have no damage to the prop.

If you have a high speed strike, you will either tear off the lower unit or completely destroy the prop - whether it is an aluminum or a stainless prop.

Good luck
REW