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#11
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I took mine to an alignment shop. This one said they do it all the time. |
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#12
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Ok thanks, My tires have been wearing funny since the trailer was new, gonna get it fixed before putting on new rubber.
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#13
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My axle lost that built in bend it's supposed to have before there's weight on the trailer. Inside of both tires was wearing off. I went with replacement figuring if the original axle failed in a year, I wasn't invest any more money in it. I'll see how long this one lasts. I only have a 16 footer, but I load it up as I camp for 2 weeks at a time.
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#14
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Not a bad price to straighten out your trailer axle. I've got a tandem torsion bar axles and there is no adjustment that can be made on it. It was wearing out one side of the tire within 1,000 miles. I had to order a new axle from the manufacturer that with shipping came to almost $ 600.
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#15
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I don't know nothing about straightening axles, but I know a little about straightening metal. Most of the time, to do it correct, heat is needed. Too much heat can create problems. If it were me, on an axle, I would spend the little bit more and replace it with a new one.
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#16
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He had to chain it and pull til he got it to where he wanted it. The trailer itself has no adjustments for alignment. If I could find a heavier axle cheap, I would prob do mine too. The thing is... I don't know if this was done by me or the guy I bought it from as I have only had this rig for like 5 months. When I got it I put all new rubber on it and lately I put new rims on it and noticed one of the tires were darn near bald on the inside. The guy at the tire store said it was from a bent axle... Wow I said... Wonder how that happened.
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#17
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The axle tubes are only mild steel, they are very easy to bend...even clipping a curb can bend them. You can straighten them with a jack in the center of the axle and chaining down the ends with Hilti bolts into the concrete...thats how I did mine.
To check for straightness you need two straight edges on the hub flanges to measure to...a couple four foot levels ziptied to the hubs or a couple framing squares work fine. The axle should be crowned in the center about 1/4-1/2" which is typical. The tricky part is getting the toe in correct, there should be some toe...I like 1/16" at the tire diameter but 1/8" is common...straight ahead with no toe can cause sway issues under load on the highway when you are on a rough surface. Correcting the toe is a little tricky without a frame machine but can be accomplished with some chain and a telephone pole or large diameter post and a come along...two tone works fine. I do this with the trailer attached to the vehicle and 4X4" blocks under the trailer tires to add some resistance...if you don't know what your doing and don't know how to rig leave it to a professional...they have the proper tools. To add stiffness to the axle a common trick is too weld a piece of angle iron vee side down on the axle...it won't bend as easily after...none of these techniques are under warranty or recommended by any manufacturer but when you take your axle into a machine shop to be straightened it just goes on a press and they crown and check toe just as I described. I will say this, when you see how easily the axle is to bend/straighten you won't be surprised its out after you go over a speed bump a little too fast or clip a curb or hit a deep pothole at 60 mph...they are very flexible. I once recrowned an axle after it was overloaded by jacking the center of the axle and two guys jumping on the side steps in tandem..it doesn't take much! |
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#18
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[QUOTE=4JawChuck;1474983]
To add stiffness to the axle a common trick is too weld a piece of angle iron vee side down on the axle...it won't bend as easily after...none of these techniques are under warranty or recommended by any manufacturer but when you take your axle into a machine shop to be straightened it just goes on a press and they crown and check toe just as I described. QUOTE] THIS IS A GREAT IDEA! I MIGHT CHECK MORE INTO THIS.... |
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#19
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Black White -
If you do have to straighten the trailer axle more than once, due to its getting bent, I would remove the axle and replace it with a heavier axle for the rig. Simply put, smooth roads may have an axle that will easily carry a given weight. But, if you are commonly hitting pot holes etc. you may need a much heavier rated axle to carry the same load without bending. Generally speaking, a new heavier axle will likely cost no more than the cost to straighten the old one, so rather than straighten the old one - it often just makes more sense to put on a new heavier axle the first time that it happens. Be safe REW |
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#20
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sounds like a good plan- our roads here are rough and I cringe when I hit pot holes or go over bridges, etc. the trailer has a rating of like 2100 lbs. |
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