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  #1  
Old 04-26-2000, 09:30 AM
jeff jeff is offline
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Default alumacraft floor

Help Guys!
In replacing the carpet in my older Lunker SS tiller, must I remove the livewell on the portside in order to replace the carpet and any bad plywood? I'm reluctant to mess with rivets if not necessary. Someone out there has to have recarpeted. Thanks for the help.
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  #2  
Old 04-26-2000, 02:33 PM
erik
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Default RE: alumacraft floor

Jeff-
Have you thought of just putting the new carpet on some 3/8" plywood and screwing the whole works down over the top of the old floor and butting it up to the livewell. I am in the process of renovating a 1982 Lunker Classic and decided to go that route. I'd rather not mess with the livewell or the rod locker. Weight is not an issue as it will primarily be a duck boat. Just a thought. I'd be interested to hear what carpet you're going with as I haven't picked any out yet. - erik
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  #3  
Old 04-26-2000, 03:05 PM
jeff jeff is offline
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Default RE: alumacraft floor

Thanks for the tip Erik. Have thought of your option, but haven't committed one way or the other yet. I'm sure I have 50 lbs. of sand and sinkers in the bilge that I may want to clean out. I'll think a bit more before I start.

I have looked at several of the carpets at Cabelas. I will probably go with one of their midrange carpets as the quality appears good. I understand there are only a couple of manufacturers of marine carpet anyway.

I use my Lunker for hunting divers. Works great and the swivel seats make gunning pretty easy compared to a duck boat.

Thanks again and shoot straight! Jeff
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  #4  
Old 04-27-2000, 02:32 PM
erik
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Default RE: alumacraft floor

Jeff- I'm glad to hear its a comfy boat for divers. What do you use for a blind? We've got a few ideas, but want to check all options before we drill too many holes in the boat.
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  #5  
Old 04-28-2000, 08:34 AM
BruceC
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Default RE: alumacraft floor

I changed the floor out in an 85 lunker 2 years ago. I didn't want to remove the live well or the side compartments that hold the flotation foam either. Instead I removed the foam from inside the compartments but cutting and breaking it out. It was the slowest part of the hole process. I then removed all of the screws from the flooring and cut it from front to back in the area under the compartements and remove the old floor. When I put it back in I didn't want to mess with having to go under the compartments again so I put in sections of 1/2 inch white pvc with the carpet attached under the compartments. The length of the pvc pieces was 4 ft, and they ended up about 18 inches wide. I ran them out to the center of the boat to the second stringer, they run front to back in that area, and screwed them down. That left me with a section in the center of the boat that started at the back and was 8 feet long. I used an 8 foot long sheet of plywood cut to about 2 feet in width for that section. The rest of the floor to the front was replaced in the same size and shape as I pulled out. It worked out real well and I haven't had any problems. For the flotation in the side compartments, I used 1" bead board from a building material supplier. I got that idea from two companies that replace flooring. They said they didn't want to foam it and that the bead board would be a better deal because I can easily remove it and put it back in if I need to in the future. They use foam because it is fast. Cutting the bead board does take time.
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  #6  
Old 04-28-2000, 09:08 PM
REW REW is online now
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Default RE: alumacraft floor

I think that it is always a good idea to pull the entire floor. After a few years of use, it is nice to know what is going on under the floor.

After replacing the floor, have you considered vinyl, or some other floor covering rather than carpet. Depending on how you use your rig, you might find vinyl or some other hard floor covering more practical.

Take care

REW
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