|10-09-2021 04:52 AM|
|10-08-2021 01:02 PM|
Not sure how a broken lock washer and nut end up in the same spot? The nut would have to rotate to the point it released from the ball shaft and should not fall at same point unless glued together. Most of the time when I have tried to remove the nut, the shaft of the ball is peened by rocks to make it very hard to remove.
I would think the most important statement is grease your ball. Without traction/grip no turn of the ball, therefore no failure.
|09-29-2021 02:18 PM|
|09-29-2021 12:38 PM|
|Franco Cialone||Do what I did once the nut is tight (300 ft. lbs.) weld the nut to shank, if you use another ball size, get another draw bar. Once its welded no more worries about coming off or theft.|
|09-14-2021 08:13 PM|
|jjy||Only time I had lock washer break was from removing the ball to different hitch. I torque ball to 250ftlb. Never come loose. Now who greases their balls?|
|09-11-2021 04:06 AM|
|last chance||I believe either one will serve the purpose but if I changed balls often I would change the toothed washer often. but with the old split washer, I don't worry about it so much. if either one failed often somebody on here would have heard about it.|
|09-10-2021 02:39 PM|
We build military equipment and much of it has toothed lock washers specified. There are standards for these things but many times it boils down to builder’s choice during the design phases.
I typically use the split washers but wouldn’t hesitate to use the toothed washers.
|09-10-2021 12:38 PM|
Electronics company for which I worked used split lock washers on all applications capable of using one. Internal/external tooth washers were not permissible on all military and non military gear. 'Jis sayin'.
|09-10-2021 08:06 AM|
|09-10-2021 07:21 AM|
|Johnboy||Perhaps use a grade 8 standard lock washer ?|
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