|12-14-2019 01:01 PM|
Couple of Points
On the newer fiberglass boats, some have experienced blistering. Also watch your span between bracing on your trailer. REW's advice to prewet or wash a good one. Be sure to snap the bow eye. Lastly not as strong as wood. But a decent replacement board
|11-13-2019 06:38 PM|
Have to agree. Had them for many years on my Lund Baron. Added a two speed winch and it was never an issue loading the boat. Unloading, you definitely have to leave the winch strap on until your transom is over water. One tap of the breaks and the boat is going!
|11-13-2019 03:08 PM|
Could not be more over joyed!!!
Purchased new trailer that was custom fit for my Alumacraft Trophy 195 this spring. Only reason for new trailer was previous one was rusting though only two years old and wanted galvanized model. Unfortunately they had stopped producing roller trailer for the boat and the new one had to be bunk trailer. Though it was custom fit for the boat, it is terrible fit. Basically required all of 200 HP outboard to load and unload boat - big embarrassment at "no power loading" launches. Spent all season dealing with manufacturer and dealer with bottom line being the trailer was built as designed even if it is lousy fit. Bit the bullet and opted to try the Ultimate boards. Just installed Ultimate Bunk Supreme model bunks and could not be more over joyed! Boat slides on and off like a dream.
|05-05-2010 09:57 AM|
Caution for Heavy Boats!
I would be very cautious before putting these on a trailer with a boat over 1,500 lbs. I don't know what their advertising states? I know the plastic glide on strips you can buy for your trailer can "blister" your hull pretty bad if the boat is over 1,500 lbs.
|05-05-2010 09:46 AM|
|fisher-1||I e-mailed the company with this question last week, no reply so far , I will post it here if I get any.|
|05-04-2010 02:47 PM|
They did make loading and unloading much easier and I would use again if I were confident they would not scratch the hull too bad.
|05-02-2010 01:18 PM|
When you use this style bunk boards, you may want to load and unload your trailer in a slightly different fashion.
With no carpet on your buncks, you have no protection for any dirt or sand that may get on your bunks as you trail over dusty and or dirty roads to a boat launch.
As a result, you want to make a point to WASH the bunk boards before unloading and launching.
This is a very simple procedure.
When launching, simply back your boat far enough into the water so that 100% of all of the bunk board length gets completey immersed and rinsed off. i.e. any dust and or dirt that may have gotten onto the bunks during transit will get rinsed off during the immersion. Then, pull the boat to the appropriate depth when launching.
The same goes for boat retreival. i.e. back the trailer far enough into the water to completly immerse the full length of the bunk boards. Again, this will rinse off the boards if the trailer has been sitting in a storage area for a week or more while the boat has been in use at a boat slip or camp ground or resort. Again, the immersion will rinse off the boards and make sure that any dirt or grit will be off the boards before loading the boat to avoid scratching the hull.
With carpet on the bunks the carpet fibres tend to cushion the hull, as the dirt tends to stay deeper into the carpet.
|05-01-2010 01:23 PM|
|fisher-1||I tought I read somewhere those boards were not suiteable for painted aluminum V hulls, or have I mistaken them for another make ?|
|04-30-2010 12:50 PM|
Thanks for that. Mine is a Trailmaster also.
I get it now,..and by leaving the brackets on, you also retain the original angle of the bunk. No adjustments needed. I also like your idea of a beveled rear edge.
No issues with original bunks yet,but if I end up needing to replace ,looks like the way to go.
|04-30-2010 11:09 AM|
My boat is a 2000 Lund 1650 Angler SS (Yamaha F80) - Trailmaster trailer.
There were 4 wooden bunks covered with carpet on my trailer. 2 - 2x6x10 feet long and 2 - 2x4x6 feet long. I left the side guide boards (wood & carpet) alone.
There were counter-sunk carriage bolts and nuts securing the old wooden bunks. I used 2" long stainless lag bolts to secure the Untimate Bunk Boards.
I didn't touch the brackets that were attached to the trailer. I unbolted the old ones, clamped on the utlimate ones, drilles some pilot holes and bolted it down.
The important measurement was where the rear edge of the bunk boards are located. That was easy by just taking a measurement from the old boards. The new boards sit under and flush with the back of my transom.
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