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07-29-2008 06:34 AM
staylor
Lake Erie killed my glass boat....

...blew out a 6 ft section of the seam where the deck attaches to the hull- on both sides at the transom, causing the transom to essentially come off the boat. The boat made it back to the ramp but sunk before I could get it on the trailer. This was in 1980. I then switched to tin, and save for 6 leaky rivets on a 1981 Sea Nympth, I'm now on my 3rd tin boat in 28 years and none of them have leaked, much less come apart and sunk.
Doug
07-29-2008 05:09 AM
keith nehrke Hijacked! Glass versus aluminum. Inevitable, I guess. Thanks for your opinion.
07-28-2008 10:49 PM
Unregistered
glass

thats why i only by glass boats havw seen the hull split open on lake erie i will pay the extra for the security
07-28-2008 04:48 AM
knehrke Thanks again for the advice. I'll try the superglue idea and let people know how it works (in the short run, at least).

Keith
07-27-2008 05:28 PM
SS2 Different brand of boat but I had 50+ leakers replaced this year. Should have done something a few yrs sooner but didn't want the down time and it worked out. Most/many were leaking for at least several years, some for over 5. So - I personally wouldn't be too concerned about 3 leakers ...

However, I think it might be good to understand what is going on. Generally, the hull flexes and eventually some rivets loosen. Once they loosen, the hole is only going to get larger as the rivet continues to move under stress. Since they can move more, it stresses other rivets just a little more...

If it can be fixed right during the off season under warranty, go for it. To buck them or maybe better yet replace them with one size larger you will likely need to pull the front deck, storage compartments/livewell (whatever is up there) and the floor section under that. If there is a livewell, it may be the major pain. Maybe have to yank the console & the "step up" board at the rear of the deck. Lotta work for 3 rivets.

A shop will be happy to buck a few rivets, they aren't as excited about tearing everything down to get too them.

The superglue idea is interesting.

Good Luck
07-26-2008 07:21 PM
T Mac When the keel leaks... it is tougher to fix...as the weld protected by the keel extrusion, has cracked.

I wouldn't worry much about what you have.
You'll spill more in the boat than that.
07-26-2008 01:09 PM
Unregistered Hey T-Mac,

No, the leaks were in three rivets that were in line, one above the other, on the right side, just above the keel. Educate me...why does this matter? Thanks!

Keith
07-25-2008 01:08 PM
T Mac Should I be worried? Is this something that I need to address immediately? We just had the boat in the water for an entire week and I never noticed it filling up, though with the rain, I was running the bilge every other day anyway.

Thanks for advice.

Gator[/QUOTE]

I wouldn't be.
I have a question, ...
Were the drops coming from rivets located on the center keel?
07-25-2008 05:39 AM
staylor
Quick but Temporary Fix

I'm down in Buffalo and this happens now and then to the rigs out on Lake Erie. A quick fix involves a tube of superglue bought just about anywhere. Get the thin "original" superglue- not the gel.Leave the rig on the trailer with the bow high enough so that any water in the bilge is away from the leaky rivets. Dry the rivets that leak with a paper towel to make sure you've wicked out all the water you can. Wipe the rivets with isoprophyl alcohol and let this dry for 2 hours. Dry the rivets one more time, then feed a drop of superglue into the seam between the rivet head and the hull on the outside. If this wicks in, feed another drop. Do this to each rivet and repeat every 2 hours until the superglue just starts to build up on the seam, meaning that you've plugged the seam. Sometimes this will fix the leak permanently, sometimes not. In any event, it stops the leak until you can get a professional repair.
Doug
07-25-2008 04:40 AM
Unregistered Thanks for the info...I did jack up the tongue, but the water was pretty clearly coming out of three individual rivets...it left a "snail trail" on the bottom of the boat.

I'll have to give Lund a call in the off season, but I'm in Rochester, New York, and I'm not sure whether the local dealers do repairs. Guess I'll find out.

I don't think I can get to the rivets on the inside of the hull very easily, but I'll look.

Thanks again.
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