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-   -   Transom Saver new thread. (https://www.walleyecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=696776)

milfish 07-27-2019 09:01 AM

Transom Saver new thread.
 
I've read all the pros and cons on the discussion on the previous transom saver thread. I have an idea/question. Does anyone make a transom saver. that has some sort of shock absorber built in? Would this have benefits? Kind of like smooth moves seats to save your back why not a smooth move transom saver to save your engine and transom. Just wondering.
Milfish

Hot Runr Guy 07-27-2019 09:18 AM

Yes. [url]http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/transom-savers-shock-absorbing[/url]

HRG

S.Larson 07-27-2019 07:33 PM

I had one of these on my first 15 foot boat,....[URL]https://www.amazon.com/Kimpex-Transom-Saver-Spring-KIMPEX/dp/B077K8KD5Y/ref=sr_1_13?gclid=CjwKCAjw7O_pBRA3EiwA_lmtfgWY3Eihar75tSwNBuLwcSBwE5c9G6mIz5zG9YR1Xo1PTftuJl_QUhoCSE0QAvD_BwE&hvadid=267949037998&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9019395&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=11956154144635108227&hvtargid=kwd-460468722375&hydadcr=9471_9891710&keywords=shock+absorbing+transom+saver&qid=1564277546&s=gateway&sr=8-13[/URL]

Bill Krejca 07-27-2019 08:01 PM

So allowing the lower unit to move up and down is to be considered a good thing? Not sure this would be beneficial, as the movement/flexing would seem to put pressure on the transom?

Bill

Ndstallmann 07-27-2019 08:15 PM

Cabela’s had one for about $60 before BPS bought them I couldn’t find online for a friend after. So he bought something different. I really like mine.

Custom Eyes 07-27-2019 08:28 PM

[QUOTE=Bill Krejca;6344744]So allowing the lower unit to move up and down is to be considered a good thing? Not sure this would be beneficial, as the movement/flexing would seem to put pressure on the transom?

Bill[/QUOTE]

My thoughts also. More movement = more stress. Sure, it's probably a good thing in a shock load situation when you hit a pothole or big bump, but seems like that additional and FAR more frequent movement outside of those situations would be a bad thing.

DW 07-27-2019 08:43 PM

The object of a transom saver is prevention of movement of the outboard relative to the transom. A shock absorber is better than nothing, but why compromise with a device that costs more and is inferior? Do it right in the first place. A saver eliminates stress on the outboard and the transom.

A shock absorber saver serves to appease someone who doesn’t understand, but wants to be politically correct and not offend. Those people need not worry about what others think. Instead, save your transom.

Bobby Winds 07-28-2019 05:05 AM

Does anyone make a special Lund transom saver that prevents it from rotting ? ? ?

That Minnesota guy 07-28-2019 05:21 AM

Little early in the day , but what the he77........................ :laugh:


[url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8b0kXQ4-bs[/url]

Hot Runr Guy 07-28-2019 05:40 AM

1 Attachment(s)
[QUOTE=Bobby Winds;6344784]Does anyone make a special Lund transom saver that prevents it from rotting ? ? ?[/QUOTE]

I think Toyota does, based on their expertise with structural engineering,,,,, :stirthepot:

HRG

pjshorthorn 07-28-2019 05:53 AM

[QUOTE=Hot Runr Guy;6344788]I think Toyota does, based on their expertise with structural engineering,,,,, :stirthepot:

HRG[/QUOTE]

Oh no you didn’t ......:rotfl:

PjShorthorn :rock-on:

pjshorthorn 07-28-2019 05:56 AM

[QUOTE=That Minnesota guy;6344786]Little early in the day , but what the he77........................ :laugh:


[url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8b0kXQ4-bs[/url][/QUOTE]

Now it appears that you may just be .......hmmmmmm, let me see........” tormenting the holier than thou crowd”. :D

PjShorthorn :rock-on:

pjshorthorn 07-28-2019 06:05 AM

Add The Big Wheel !!!
 
Bobbly Head,

Just add the Big Wheel to your tag line of prolific equipment you have listed. It is the quickest way to ease your pain and for the rest of us to not have to watch your signature Bobby’s World video anymore. C’mon Man........just man up and add it. You know you have a 1974 model tucked away in the garage with the rest of your toys. It has to be a blast to ride in the winter time being able to do the ultimate power slides in the snow.

Just do it !!!!.

I can’t keep giving you this kind of free advice.

PjShorthorn :rock-on:

CI_Guy 07-28-2019 01:02 PM

I use a wedge based on the advice of a lifelong friend that was an aluminum welder and fabricator for over 30 years. I've quoted him several times on WC over the years. He repaired lower units for several shops in the Twin City area. Most of the repairs were needed because of an impact with some underwater object, but every year he had a few caused transom saver bars. The vast majority of these were caused by OPERATOR ERROR. The little plastic nobs on the screws or the V shaped rubber boot that the motor rested on were worn out and there was metal to metal contact wearing a hole in the lower unit, or people trying to use the transom saver to keep the motor from swinging to one side and put to much downward pressure on the on the motor and road vibration would crack the housing. Another problem in his opinion was that the strap connected to the front of the boat pulls the boat forward but has very little downward pull. If you used a bar type saver he strongly recommended running a ratchet strap from the bow eye under the trailer frame to hold the bow of the boat down. Years ago I had him read one of the many transom saver debates on here, he said that the bouncing of motors you see going over train tracks and bumps has more to do with the bow moving up and down than the transom or motor. He thought that the spring loaded bar savers were the best option if you were going to use one.
I realize that there are people here that would rather find their daughter working in a cat house than see their son pull a boat down the road without a transom saver bar, but like the Ford/Chevy, Lowrance/Himminbird or Ginger/Maryanne debates this one will be back again and again..............

Bobby Winds 07-28-2019 04:24 PM

[QUOTE=CI_Guy;6344866]I use a wedge based on the advice of a lifelong friend that was an aluminum welder and fabricator for over 30 years. I've quoted him several times on WC over the years. He repaired lower units for several shops in the Twin City area. Most of the repairs were needed because of an impact with some underwater object, but every year he had a few caused transom saver bars. The vast majority of these were caused by OPERATOR ERROR. The little plastic nobs on the screws or the V shaped rubber boot that the motor rested on were worn out and there was metal to metal contact wearing a hole in the lower unit, or people trying to use the transom saver to keep the motor from swinging to one side and put to much downward pressure on the on the motor and road vibration would crack the housing. Another problem in his opinion was that the strap connected to the front of the boat pulls the boat forward but has very little downward pull. If you used a bar type saver he strongly recommended running a ratchet strap from the bow eye under the trailer frame to hold the bow of the boat down. Years ago I had him read one of the many transom saver debates on here, he said that the bouncing of motors you see going over train tracks and bumps has more to do with the bow moving up and down than the transom or motor. He thought that the spring loaded bar savers were the best option if you were going to use one.
I realize that there are people here that would rather find their daughter working in a cat house than see their son pull a boat down the road without a transom saver bar, but like the Ford/Chevy, Lowrance/Himminbird or Ginger/Maryanne debates this one will be back again and again..............[/QUOTE]

:bowdown:

Custom Eyes 07-28-2019 09:31 PM

[QUOTE=CI_Guy;6344866]I use a wedge based on the advice of a lifelong friend that was an aluminum welder and fabricator for over 30 years. I've quoted him several times on WC over the years. He repaired lower units for several shops in the Twin City area. Most of the repairs were needed because of an impact with some underwater object, but every year he had a few caused transom saver bars. The vast majority of these were caused by OPERATOR ERROR. The little plastic nobs on the screws or the V shaped rubber boot that the motor rested on were worn out and there was metal to metal contact wearing a hole in the lower unit, or people trying to use the transom saver to keep the motor from swinging to one side and put to much downward pressure on the on the motor and road vibration would crack the housing. Another problem in his opinion was that the strap connected to the front of the boat pulls the boat forward but has very little downward pull. If you used a bar type saver he strongly recommended running a ratchet strap from the bow eye under the trailer frame to hold the bow of the boat down. Years ago I had him read one of the many transom saver debates on here, he said that the bouncing of motors you see going over train tracks and bumps has more to do with the bow moving up and down than the transom or motor. He thought that the spring loaded bar savers were the best option if you were going to use one.
I realize that there are people here that would rather find their daughter working in a cat house than see their son pull a boat down the road without a transom saver bar, but like the Ford/Chevy, Lowrance/Himminbird or Ginger/Maryanne debates this one will be back again and again..............[/QUOTE]

So, in all that, nothing you stated was that transom savers themselves cause damage or are less effective than wedges. It was all "operator error", including improperly positioned boats on trailers (bow bouncing). It did get Bobby to bow to you though. Congrats! :cheers: lol

DW 07-29-2019 06:02 AM

[QUOTE=CI_Guy;6344866]I use a wedge based on the advice of a lifelong friend that was an aluminum welder and fabricator for over 30 years. I've quoted him several times on WC over the years. He repaired lower units for several shops in the Twin City area. Most of the repairs were needed because of an impact with some underwater object, but every year he had a few caused transom saver bars. The vast majority of these were caused by OPERATOR ERROR. The little plastic nobs on the screws or the V shaped rubber boot that the motor rested on were worn out and there was metal to metal contact wearing a hole in the lower unit, or people trying to use the transom saver to keep the motor from swinging to one side and put to much downward pressure on the on the motor and road vibration would crack the housing. Another problem in his opinion was that the strap connected to the front of the boat pulls the boat forward but has very little downward pull. If you used a bar type saver he strongly recommended running a ratchet strap from the bow eye under the trailer frame to hold the bow of the boat down. Years ago I had him read one of the many transom saver debates on here, he said that the bouncing of motors you see going over train tracks and bumps has more to do with the bow moving up and down than the transom or motor. He thought that the spring loaded bar savers were the best option if you were going to use one.
I realize that there are people here that would rather find their daughter working in a cat house than see their son pull a boat down the road without a transom saver bar, but like the Ford/Chevy, Lowrance/Himminbird or Ginger/Maryanne debates this one will be back again and again..............[/QUOTE]

I am probably the number one advocate for bar savers, and I agree with your friend’s assessment. As an advocate, the number one message is that the boat and the sprung portion of the trailer should move as one. When moving as one, it is impossible to create damaging forces on the lower unit with a bar saver. With or without a bar saver, if there is movement between the boat and the sprung portion of the trailer there are multiple points where damage to the boat, and trailer may occur, and even transmit undesirable motion to the tow vehicle.

My rig came with an Atwood saver which has two rubber pads on a little bar on each side that pivot to conform to the shape of the lower unit. I have used this saver towing an estimated 80,000 miles. At 50,000 miles, I replaced the pads as they were too worn and eventually the metal screws and backing would have gouged the lower unit. To me, and a lot folks of average and above intelligence, replacing the pads is like replacing worn tires before they blow up. Yet some people on this forum think this takes extraordinary ability. All I say is if you can’t handle this, sell your boat because there are far more challenging responsibilities of boat operation than properly fitting a bar saver.

Marty59 07-29-2019 10:59 AM

Dd26
 
What's the consensus on these as transom savers? Other than the cost!

[url]https://dd26fishing.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fdd26-fishing-mean-mount-transom-saver[/url]

Marty


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