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rdiddy 09-12-2021 12:12 PM

First boat purchase ever. Could use some advice
 
Hello all,


I recently found this website after googling and researching boat options. I am in the market for a new aluminum fishing boat and as a result of never having owned a boat before coupled with the insane amount of options available I am admittedly struggling a bit. I am only going to do this once and I want to do it right.



I am looking at options from Lund, Princecraft, Crestliner and Alumacraft. I am not trying to get into a discussion surrounding which of these manufacturers I should go with, that is not the intent of my post.


I am only trying to educate myself on critical options and what those options do before I make what I consider to be a very expensive purchase.


I am wondering when comparing similar 17 to 18 foot offerings from Lund, Princecraft or Crestliner why the maximum horsepower ratings on the Lund typically max out 25+ horsepower less than comparables from Princecraft or Crestliner.


This greatly factors in to my decision as a 125 or 150 horsepower motor costs considerably less than a 200 that the princecrafts or crestliners state as max... I was always told to max out the HP rating on anything I buy... Why do two different but structurally similar 18' boats that generally weigh the same have such different horsepower capacities?


I am torn on purchasing all the electronics rigging from factory, or DIY. I have a full complement of tools and am very capable at technical work. I have been told that it's best to rig yourself as you get to decide exactly where everything goes to your own liking. However I have also been told to let them do it as everything will be warrantied if anything goes wrong... thoughts?


Can someone walk me through which seating options are strongly recommended? I have looked and looked for videos or articles on the internet that show what the differences between pro ride seats, air ride seats, seat sliders and mainstays, captains chairs etc but I haven't had much luck discerning what the differences are aside from that the captains chairs have arms and that air ride seats have different pedestals?


What are the tangible real world differences between cable steer rigging and hydraulic steering? I assume it's a worthwhile upgrade to go with the hydraulic steering? Are there differences between the Panther and Sea Star options?


That's a good start for now, thanks Gentlemen.

That Minnesota guy 09-12-2021 12:33 PM

Get the horsepower rating off the coast guard ID plate or from the factory websites. Many dealers will advertise lower hp motors to keep the price down.

Unless you want to hook-up your own electronics have it factory installed.

Hydraulic steering.


Dealers make the difference. Showing up in their doorway shows you are serious plus they can explain the options much better. If you want to be lazy and shop & buy from your couch be ready for a lot of unanswered emails. Also a trip down to the local launch to ask questions on models you like the looks of is always a good idea. Ask your questions when guys are loaded up and are getting ready to go, not when they first get there. Most guys are more than happy to talk boats. :)

rdiddy 09-12-2021 01:12 PM

[QUOTE=That Minnesota guy;6596430]Get the horsepower rating off the coast guard ID plate or from the factory websites. Many dealers will advertise lower hp motors to keep the price down.[/QUOTE]

Hi Minnesota Guy. Thanks for your advice and for stopping in. I believe I may have not explained myself clearly on this topic. I am taking the maximum horsepower ratings from the factory websites. I am aware that manufacturers will strap a 90 horse motor on an 18 foot boat in order to advertise a sparkly low price.

I am only interested in the logic behind maximum horsepower capacity ratings, not what they come with by default. Crestliner and Princecraft rate a 200 hp max capacity on their 18' boats where Lund only rate their 18' boats at a maximum 150 HP.

Just wondering what I am missing.

[QUOTE=That Minnesota guy;6596430]Unless you want to hook-up your own electronics have it factory installed.

Hydraulic steering.

Dealers make the difference. Showing up in their doorway shows you are serious plus they can explain the options much better. If you want to be lazy and shop & buy from your couch be ready for a lot of unanswered emails. Also a trip down to the local launch to ask questions on models you like the looks of is always a good idea. Ask your questions when guys are loaded up and are getting ready to go, not when they first get there. Most guys are more than happy to talk boats. :)[/QUOTE]

Duly noted, thanks again for your advice. :)

Snowking 09-12-2021 01:52 PM

Coast guard has allot to do with ratings. Same size boat does not mean it is built the same. Lund pro v verses my crossover. Pro v has thicker metal and beefed up transom so higher horsepower rating. If you have kids I would for sure look for a boat with rear jump seats. If you do any amount of trolling jump seats are nice. I never put the rear pedestal seats in. They are just in the way. Hydraulic Steering for 150 and up outboards. Otherwise Hydraulic not needed. If you are within 25 hp of max is close enough. Depending how small a boat your going to. If you are undecided between a 17 foot boat and a 18. Always go with the bigger boat. If you can afford it. Very few people say I bought to big of boat. They always wish they had bought the next size up. Normally I would say for a first boat go used. Because no matter how much you look around. Once you have a boat for a few years. You will likely change your mind about what you would have bought. With the used boat prices right now. Can not blame you for looking new. The other thing is try to order within the next few weeks. Way better chance of getting the boat in time for next year.

Snowking 09-12-2021 01:56 PM

I should add. If you want peopleís opinions on what size and boat you should buy. Post what size lakes you normally fish. Plus if you mostly cast or troll. What kind of fishing you do.

Ltrain 09-12-2021 03:52 PM

The 18 foot Lund Tyee and Pro V max out at 200. These are the what i would consider the heartier of the Lund models.

Highly recommend the Hydraulic steering, can turn with a finger compared to fighting torque with cable steering. Would never go back to cable after owning hydraulic .

Wave pro or Smooth moves really help with taking the pounding from the waves so your spine doesn't have too. If I was buying a new deep V I would want them.

As far as rigging goes I like doing my own. But if you have never done it before you might want to let the marina do it. But doing it yourself let's you know exactly how its run if you have to troubleshoot later.

Mark Pothen 09-12-2021 06:31 PM

My 2 cents worth here.

If you are deciding between a 17 or 18 footer and have the room. 18 footer all the way. Max your hp motor rating.

Look at the boats you are interested in. It's going to come down to what floor plan you like best and what fits your needs. Don't skimp on a trailer.

If you are handy and have the time and are confident go ahead and mount your own electronics if you like doing this.

I like Minnesota guys recommendation. Go to a launch see what guys have and ask them questions. What are their likes and dislikes.

Dbars19 09-12-2021 07:20 PM

A 1775 (basically) 18 ft. with a 150hp from lund is prob the best boat for a new owner imo. The price goes from 'ok thats alot" for a 1775 to 70+ for a 1875 with a 200hp. What if it turns out you cant fish much or dont like fishing or boats. Then your stuck with a 70k boat. you wont notice much difference between a 1775 or a 1875. Also let the factory do your electronics....

rdiddy 09-12-2021 07:52 PM

[QUOTE=Snowking;6596444]Coast guard has allot to do with ratings. Same size boat does not mean it is built the same. Lund pro v verses my crossover. Pro v has thicker metal and beefed up transom so higher horsepower rating. If you have kids I would for sure look for a boat with rear jump seats. If you do any amount of trolling jump seats are nice. I never put the rear pedestal seats in. They are just in the way. Hydraulic Steering for 150 and up outboards. Otherwise Hydraulic not needed. If you are within 25 hp of max is close enough. Depending how small a boat your going to. If you are undecided between a 17 foot boat and a 18. Always go with the bigger boat. If you can afford it. Very few people say I bought to big of boat. They always wish they had bought the next size up. Normally I would say for a first boat go used. Because no matter how much you look around. Once you have a boat for a few years. You will likely change your mind about what you would have bought. With the used boat prices right now. Can not blame you for looking new. The other thing is try to order within the next few weeks. Way better chance of getting the boat in time for next year.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the feedback. I have been wavering back and forth for more than a few years now on making this purchase... been saving and dreaming for a long time. I can see your point why someone should go with a used boat to get your feet wet and then re-evaluate. I feel like I have been thinking about this for so long that I will make a solid and logical decision.

I am currently eyeballing the Lund 1875 Impact XS but that's not set in stone... but I strongly feel that I would never need a higher calibre of boat beyond that range... nor would my budget accommodate more than that. Fully rigged that boat is somewhere around the $80K to $90K CDN range on Lund's boat build page... That's a ridiculous amount of money.

rdiddy 09-12-2021 07:59 PM

[QUOTE=Snowking;6596446]I should add. If you want peopleís opinions on what size and boat you should buy. Post what size lakes you normally fish. Plus if you mostly cast or troll. What kind of fishing you do.[/QUOTE]


My original intent of my post was not to garner people's opinions on what size or which manufacturer of boat I should get... I was more looking to find out what some of these options mean on the Lund boat build website as I have no idea which ones are really essential and which aren't...


However that being said, I am also not foolish enough to turn my nose up at free / sage advice and I could obviously use the help.


I live in Ottawa Canada, lately I have taken to fishing musky but also have a soft spot for walleye, bass and pike. I don't have any kids. Just my wife and I.


I mostly cast, but would do some trolling.


Thanks Snowking

rdiddy 09-12-2021 08:05 PM

[QUOTE=ltrain;6596458]The 18 foot Lund Tyee and Pro V max out at 200. These are the what i would consider the heartier of the Lund models.

Highly recommend the Hydraulic steering, can turn with a finger compared to fighting torque with cable steering. Would never go back to cable after owning hydraulic .

Wave pro or Smooth moves really help with taking the pounding from the waves so your spine doesn't have too. If I was buying a new deep V I would want them.

As far as rigging goes I like doing my own. But if you have never done it before you might want to let the marina do it. But doing it yourself let's you know exactly how its run if you have to troubleshoot later.[/QUOTE]


Thanks for the recommendation on the hydraulic steering, I will put that on my must have list. I didn't know what advantages it offered, but now I can see it's value so thanks for the explanation.


What is wave pro or smooth moves? From your description I am going to have to assume it's a seating option?


I was leaning towards doing my own rigging for two reasons, one because I enjoy technical installs like that and secondly, for example a humminbird helix or a minn kota ulterra seems to warrant a large markup in price on Lund's factory boat build website.


If I source those units and buy them myself, it seems the prices are considerably less. Frankly, given I am already purchasing boat, motor etc from them I would have expected that they would at least not price gouge on the accessories and electronics... but maybe I am somewhat naive as I have never done this before.... or am I missing something?

rdiddy 09-12-2021 08:11 PM

[QUOTE=Mark Pothen;6596482]My 2 cents worth here.

If you are deciding between a 17 or 18 footer and have the room. 18 footer all the way. Max your hp motor rating.

Look at the boats you are interested in. It's going to come down to what floor plan you like best and what fits your needs. Don't skimp on a trailer.

If you are handy and have the time and are confident go ahead and mount your own electronics if you like doing this.

I like Minnesota guys recommendation. Go to a launch see what guys have and ask them questions. What are their likes and dislikes.[/QUOTE]


Thanks for the advice Mark, I appreciate you stopping in.


I am pretty much set on an 1800 series boat and a maxed HP motor applicable to that boat, I was just trying to learn why some manufacturers pair a 200 to that size of boat while others pair it with a 150.


Apparently it has a lot to do with gauge of aluminum and transom spec. That makes sense to me.


In regards to your comment on trailers, out of the following options, what do you consider must haves?


Galvanized, or painted?
bunk or rollers?
single axle or tandem?
trailer brakes?
spare tire


I am leaning towards a galvanized roller trailer and definitely a spare tire. Not sure I need a tandem axle or trailer with onboard brakes, but as mentioned many times, I am as green as it gets with this stuff.


If you have any suggestions I'd be glad to hear them.

rdiddy 09-12-2021 08:21 PM

[QUOTE=Dbars19;6596488]A 1775 (basically) 18 ft. with a 150hp from lund is prob the best boat for a new owner imo. The price goes from 'ok thats alot" for a 1775 to 70+ for a 1875 with a 200hp. What if it turns out you cant fish much or dont like fishing or boats. Then your stuck with a 70k boat. you wont notice much difference between a 1775 or a 1875. Also let the factory do your electronics....[/QUOTE]


From what I am seeing, a 1775 Lund of any model maxes out at 125 HP, interestingly though Lund doesn't appear to offer any 125 HP motor, Mercury, Honda or otherwise... 115 is the maximum they offer for any 1775 boat that I looked at.


The 1875's are where the 150's start to come into play, and they at least stock / sell those. I believe someone mentioned the Tyee and the like start to get into the 200 HP max range, but for the 1875 Impact and 1875 Impact XS I was looking at, 150 is the max they will let you strap on.


At any rate, I have been fishing for 35+ years and I am finally in a position to get a boat that I have been dreaming of for at least 20 of those years. I assure you I will not be giving up fishing any time soon :smirk:


Any particular reason you mention leave the electronics to the factory?


Thanks for your help

buckmaster7600 09-12-2021 08:22 PM

[QUOTE=rdiddy;6596516]Thanks for the advice Mark, I appreciate you stopping in.


I am pretty much set on an 1800 series boat and a maxed HP motor applicable to that boat, I was just trying to learn why some manufacturers pair a 200 to that size of boat while others pair it with a 150.


Apparently it has a lot to do with gauge of aluminum and transom spec. That makes sense to me.


In regards to your comment on trailers, out of the following options, what do you consider must haves?


Galvanized, or painted?
bunk or rollers?
single axle or tandem?
trailer brakes?
spare tire


I am leaning towards a galvanized roller trailer and definitely a spare tire. Not sure I need a tandem axle or trailer with onboard brakes, but as mentioned many times, I am as green as it gets with this stuff.


If you have any suggestions I'd be glad to hear them.[/QUOTE]


Galvanized or aluminum

I hate roller but they have their use on shallow launches

Single axle unless youíre regularly taking very long trips or are at the top of the tow capacity of your tow vehicle.

Trailer Brakes never hurt but are a necessity if youíre even close to tow capacity on tow rig.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

rdiddy 09-12-2021 08:28 PM

Anyone want to weigh in on varying motor options? I pretty much gather that Merc is the default motor any boat comes with.


Is there any benefit going to a Honda or Yamaha outboard? I see the Honda option is approx $800 more than the default merc.


Also, I have searched and search for a clear answer to this but haven't really come up with a definitive answer... how big is too big for a console mounted fish finder? Most guys I see go with something between a 7 to 10 inch Helix or the like. I don't want it to be too big to the point where it obstructs the driver's view, plus I really don't know what comfortably fits within the confines of a full windshield.

mikear 09-12-2021 08:29 PM

[QUOTE=rdiddy;6596516]Thanks for the advice Mark, I appreciate you stopping in.


I am pretty much set on an 1800 series boat and a maxed HP motor applicable to that boat, I was just trying to learn why some manufacturers pair a 200 to that size of boat while others pair it with a 150.


Apparently it has a lot to do with gauge of aluminum and transom spec. That makes sense to me.


In regards to your comment on trailers, out of the following options, what do you consider must haves?


Galvanized, or painted?
bunk or rollers?
single axle or tandem?
trailer brakes?
spare tire


I am leaning towards a galvanized roller trailer and definitely a spare tire. Not sure I need a tandem axle or trailer with onboard brakes, but as mentioned many times, I am as green as it gets with this stuff.


If you have any suggestions I'd be glad to hear them.[/QUOTE]


I have a 1775 impact on a single axle painted Shorelandír trailer. Painted vs galvanized in a freshwater environment really depends on the quality of roads youíre driving (I.e. lots of gravel) that will chip the paint. Doing it again, Iíd take the ugly galvanized trailer that will stay ugly.

If you will be driving unimproved roads with a higher potential for tire issues, Iíd go tandem axle. However, I drive almost exclusively paved roads and have not had any issues with my single axle trailer.

My trailer has rollers. This really depends on your launch site. If launching shallow, low grade ramps, then go roller as you can push the boat off the trailer. If theyíre mostly steep or moderate incline, bunk will be just fine. Some say bunks provide more support. In 5 years and thousands of miles I havenít had issues with my roller trailer in that regard. I also have no launching problems even on steep ramps, just took practice to figure it out.

I do not have trailer brakes and donít feel I need them. If I lived in a mountainous region I would have brakes.

Spare tire is a no brainer.

mikear 09-12-2021 08:34 PM

First boat purchase ever. Could use some advice
 
[QUOTE=rdiddy;6596522]Anyone want to weigh in on varying motor options? I pretty much gather that Merc is the default motor any boat comes with.


Is there any benefit going to a Honda or Yamaha outboard? I see the Honda option is approx $800 more than the default merc.


Also, I have searched and search for a clear answer to this but haven't really come up with a definitive answer... how big is too big for a console mounted fish finder? Most guys I see go with something between a 7 to 10 inch Helix or the like. I don't want it to be too big to the point where it obstructs the driver's view, plus I really don't know what comfortably fits within the confines of a full windshield.[/QUOTE]


I have had two new Mercury four stroke motors. A 2015 90hp and a 2016 115hp. Iíve had no issues, do the maintenance myself, and they sip gas. Buddy has a Honda on his Lund and has the same experience as mine. Just because I like Yamaha, Iíd probably get one if I were in the market today. It really boils down to who is the best mechanic closest to you in case you have an unfortunate engine issue.

All that being said, most of these new motors are really good.

As far as graphs, I have an HDS 9 on the console, I could probably get by with a 10 inch unit but it would be close without getting creative on the mounting. You will lose some line of sight with a 9-10Ē unit, but not harmful in my experience.

Dbars19 09-12-2021 09:13 PM

[QUOTE=rdiddy;6596518]From what I am seeing, a 1775 Lund of any model maxes out at 125 HP, interestingly though Lund doesn't appear to offer any 125 HP motor, Mercury, Honda or otherwise... 115 is the maximum they offer for any 1775 boat that I looked at.


The 1875's are where the 150's start to come into play, and they at least stock / sell those. I believe someone mentioned the Tyee and the like start to get into the 200 HP max range, but for the 1875 Impact and 1875 Impact XS I was looking at, 150 is the max they will let you strap on.


At any rate, I have been fishing for 35+ years and I am finally in a position to get a boat that I have been dreaming of for at least 20 of those years. I assure you I will not be giving up fishing any time soon :smirk:


Any particular reason you mention leave the electronics to the factory?


Thanks for your help[/QUOTE]

Thats interesting. Lund doesnt make the 1775 Crossover anymore, was looking at a 2019 lund book i have. As for electronics, its fairly easy to put a graph on at the helm. But once you start drilling holes into a 60k new boat, you want someone who has done it before. my 2 cent

chico 09-12-2021 10:20 PM

My 2c - Get the 18'r you will not regret it. As for the motor max HP is best if budget allows. Depending on your fishing style bowmount 24v will do again if budget allows 36v. If you go with lowrance bowmount will be motorguide and minn-kota for hummingbird. Largest screen budget allows, not an issue for blindspots as you will soon find out. Being in Ottawa i am sure you will have a marine shop nearby for service of witch ever motor you pick. Do not go with old style steering, pick budget allowing new steering that manufacturer options. Bunk trailer is a lot more user friendly than roller by any means. My last boat i installed my own electronics 10 yrs ago with help from WC and a few other sites, at the age of 56 i was debating but after all these years i am glad i did. As for the seats i would just order with the captain chairs up front as upgrading to smooth seats or others is a simple bolt on option. Full windshield, bimini top helps on those cold mornings and windy days. Being in Ottawa i would go next door and get a Princecraft love the setup and style( i own 18' Crestliner). This is just my opinion and not wanting to engage in one is better than the other. If you ever come west look me up in Calgary and i will take you out for a day or two on an 18' Crestliner to help you in your decision making. I think i have said a bit to much already good luck on your decisions...Chico...

rdiddy 09-13-2021 09:35 AM

[QUOTE=buckmaster7600;6596520]Galvanized or aluminum

I hate roller but they have their use on shallow launches

Single axle unless youíre regularly taking very long trips or are at the top of the tow capacity of your tow vehicle.

Trailer Brakes never hurt but are a necessity if youíre even close to tow capacity on tow rig.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

One of the reasons I was eyeballing the roller trailer was because any time I have ever seen a person with a bunk trailer that is more than 4 or 5 years old, the carpeting on the bunks is always damaged or worn right off. In my mind the rollers really wouldn't require as much upkeep, no?

Can I ask why you hate them?

I have a Jeep Wrangler 4 door and the max towing capacity on it is apparently only 3500 pounds. How does the second axle alleviate weight restriction concerns?

Thanks for the suggestions

rdiddy 09-13-2021 09:40 AM

[QUOTE=mikear;6596524]I have a 1775 impact on a single axle painted Shoreland’r trailer. Painted vs galvanized in a freshwater environment really depends on the quality of roads you’re driving (I.e. lots of gravel) that will chip the paint. Doing it again, I’d take the ugly galvanized trailer that will stay ugly.

If you will be driving unimproved roads with a higher potential for tire issues, I’d go tandem axle. However, I drive almost exclusively paved roads and have not had any issues with my single axle trailer.

My trailer has rollers. This really depends on your launch site. If launching shallow, low grade ramps, then go roller as you can push the boat off the trailer. If they’re mostly steep or moderate incline, bunk will be just fine. Some say bunks provide more support. In 5 years and thousands of miles I haven’t had issues with my roller trailer in that regard. I also have no launching problems even on steep ramps, just took practice to figure it out.

I do not have trailer brakes and don’t feel I need them. If I lived in a mountainous region I would have brakes.

Spare tire is a no brainer.[/QUOTE]

What makes launching on a steep launch with a roller trailer require practice to figure it out, other than not taking off your safety latch before you're partially submerged in the water?

I just mentioned this on another post, but I'll write it here too as it seems relevant:

One of the reasons I was eyeballing the roller trailer was because any time I have ever seen a person with a bunk trailer that is more than 4 or 5 years old, the carpeting on the bunks is always damaged or worn right off. In my mind the rollers really wouldn't require as much upkeep, no?

rdiddy 09-13-2021 09:43 AM

[QUOTE=mikear;6596526]I have had two new Mercury four stroke motors. A 2015 90hp and a 2016 115hp. Iíve had no issues, do the maintenance myself, and they sip gas. Buddy has a Honda on his Lund and has the same experience as mine. Just because I like Yamaha, Iíd probably get one if I were in the market today. It really boils down to who is the best mechanic closest to you in case you have an unfortunate engine issue.

All that being said, most of these new motors are really good.

As far as graphs, I have an HDS 9 on the console, I could probably get by with a 10 inch unit but it would be close without getting creative on the mounting. You will lose some line of sight with a 9-10Ē unit, but not harmful in my experience.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the feedback on squeezing in a graph on the console. I assume your boat has a full wrap around windshield?

rdiddy 09-13-2021 09:44 AM

[QUOTE=Dbars19;6596532]Thats interesting. Lund doesnt make the 1775 Crossover anymore, was looking at a 2019 lund book i have. As for electronics, its fairly easy to put a graph on at the helm. But once you start drilling holes into a 60k new boat, you want someone who has done it before. my 2 cent[/QUOTE]

Are you saying that Lund used to allow a 150 HP max on the 1775's? Thanks

FlyNorth 09-13-2021 10:12 AM

I had a 2019 Lund 1775 Impact, now have a 2020 1875 Impact. I made a mistake and went too small and only side console one windshield with the 1775 and got the 1875 full windshield a year later, don't make the same mistake I made. $$$

Now, that being said, the 1775 is a fantastic boat, I had the 115 Merc and it was a great combo! I put a stainless Spitfire prop on it and that made all the difference in the world, this is a must! I put a 10 inch Solix on the 1775 and it fit, I put a 12Ē Solix on the 1875 and it fits, barely. The 1775 is a side console boat and 1875 is full windshield. The 150 Merc on the 1875 is perfect, can get 47mph with a Tempest stainless prop, full fuel and 2 people. Good holeshot and excellent midrange cruise.

Either boat is an excellent choice, make sure you get the optional drawers by your feet and stow and go rod holders. 115 on the 1775 and 150 on the 1875 is plenty!

FN

rdiddy 09-13-2021 10:55 AM

[QUOTE=chico;6596544]Depending on your fishing style bowmount 24v will do again if budget allows 36v.[/QUOTE]

I was wondering about that. Any of the 17' or 18' boats I have looked at only offer a 24v trolling motor. If I wanted to wire a 36v system with three batteries, would three large deep cycle batteries fit in a boat of that size, also considering that you need space for your engine battery as well?

I kinda wanted to go with the 36v so I would be more or less guaranteed that I would never drain the battery system from the trolling motor, despite running it heavily for a weekend trip or something

[QUOTE=chico;6596544]
If you go with lowrance bowmount will be motorguide and minn-kota for hummingbird. Largest screen budget allows, not an issue for blindspots as you will soon find out. Being in Ottawa i am sure you will have a marine shop nearby for service of witch ever motor you pick. Do not go with old style steering, pick budget allowing new steering that manufacturer options. Bunk trailer is a lot more user friendly than roller by any means. My last boat i installed my own electronics 10 yrs ago with help from WC and a few other sites, at the age of 56 i was debating but after all these years i am glad i did. As for the seats i would just order with the captain chairs up front as upgrading to smooth seats or others is a simple bolt on option. Full windshield, bimini top helps on those cold mornings and windy days. Being in Ottawa i would go next door and get a Princecraft love the setup and style( i own 18' Crestliner). This is just my opinion and not wanting to engage in one is better than the other. If you ever come west look me up in Calgary and i will take you out for a day or two on an 18' Crestliner to help you in your decision making. I think i have said a bit to much already good luck on your decisions...Chico...[/QUOTE]

Thanks for all your feedback, I appreciate all the help. Take care :bowdown:

rdiddy 09-13-2021 11:03 AM

[QUOTE=FlyNorth;6596618]I had a 2019 Lund 1775 Impact, now have a 2020 1875 Impact. I made a mistake and went too small and only side console one windshield with the 1775 and got the 1875 full windshield a year later, don't make the same mistake I made. $$$

Now, that being said, the 1775 is a fantastic boat, I had the 115 Merc and it was a great combo! I put a stainless Spitfire prop on it and that made all the difference in the world, this is a must! I put a 10 inch Solix on the 1775 and it fit, I put a 12Ē Solix on the 1875 and it fits, barely. The 1775 is a side console boat and 1875 is full windshield. The 150 Merc on the 1875 is perfect, can get 47mph with a Tempest stainless prop, full fuel and 2 people. Good holeshot and excellent midrange cruise.

Either boat is an excellent choice, make sure you get the optional drawers by your feet and stow and go rod holders. 115 on the 1775 and 150 on the 1875 is plenty!

FN[/QUOTE]

Thanks for stopping in, I appreciate the info.

I have always wanted to go with the full windshield, so no worries there.

I have read conflicting reports on the stainless prop. Some people say they aren't worth it on a smaller boat, others can't live without them. What about them make all the difference in the world to you?

On your 1775 and 1875 what is the longest rod you can store in the onboard rod storage, when in the rod locker or on the stow and go rod holders? I fish musky and have some 8.5' and one 9' rod.

Thanks for your time

mikear 09-13-2021 11:10 AM

[QUOTE=rdiddy;6596602]What makes launching on a steep launch with a roller trailer require practice to figure it out, other than not taking off your safety latch before you're partially submerged in the water?

I just mentioned this on another post, but I'll write it here too as it seems relevant:

One of the reasons I was eyeballing the roller trailer was because any time I have ever seen a person with a bunk trailer that is more than 4 or 5 years old, the carpeting on the bunks is always damaged or worn right off. In my mind the rollers really wouldn't require as much upkeep, no?[/QUOTE]


The reason I purchased a roller was the same as youíre thinking, maintenance. I hate jacking with bunks, therefore I got a roller. Lund does seem to offer a synthetic bunk upgrade option for the trailer.

As far as launching goes, if the launch is steep youíll want the boat almost completely floating so it doesnít take off when detached from the winch. Basically just back in further to get more boat in the water.

As far as loading, youíll have to power load or winch it a significant ways up the trailer. I power load but itís legal here.

And to answer your previous question, I have the side console, not a full wrap around windshield. Sounds like another poster answered your question.

FlyNorth 09-13-2021 11:18 AM

[QUOTE=rdiddy;6596632]Thanks for stopping in, I appreciate the info.

I have always wanted to go with the full windshield, so no worries there.

I have read conflicting reports on the stainless prop. Some people say they aren't worth it on a smaller boat, others can't live without them. What about them make all the difference in the world to you?

On your 1775 and 1875 what is the longest rod you can store in the onboard rod storage, when in the rod locker or on the stow and go rod holders? I fish musky and have some 8.5' and one 9' rod.

Thanks for your time[/QUOTE]

Good questions.

Sorry, cant give you rod length info on the 1775 since i no longer own it and dont remember.
The 1875 center rod box is what Lund quotes. The stow and go holders on the sides will easily stow long Musky rods. Make sure you order the Stow and Go option!

Props…. Ok, here is what I discovered.

Stainless gives you a much better overall connected feel, kinda hard to explain until you have experienced both props. Stainless is a must for 150hp and over and a nice to have between 70 and 115hp.
The Stainless 4 blade Spitfire on the 1775 allowed the boat to accelerate better without cavitation, did not blow out in the turns and a couple more mph in speed.
The 1875 3 blade Tempest stainless had the same improvements as mentioned above. I was going to try the 4 blade Rev 4 on the 1875 just for kicks but since I am going to sell my 1875 Impact I decided to hold off on that. I’m upgrading to a Warrior for the big Great Lakes water.

If you have any other questions feel free to ask:)

FN

PS, what ever boat you get, buy the mobile vessel view kit that enables you to get full engine data on your phone. Well worth the few hundred bucks. Super plug and play type of installation.

waldowillie 09-13-2021 11:32 AM

[QUOTE=rdiddy;6596424]Hello all,


You say:

"I am looking at options from Lund, Princecraft, Crestliner and Alumacraft."


"I am wondering when comparing similar 17 to 18 foot offerings from Lund, Princecraft or Crestliner why the maximum horsepower ratings on the Lund typically max out 25+ horsepower less than comparables from Princecraft or Crestliner."


"This greatly factors in to my decision as a 125 or 150 horsepower motor costs considerably less than a 200 that the princecrafts or crestliners state as max... I was always told to max out the HP rating on anything I buy... Why do two different but structurally similar 18' boats that generally weigh the same have such different horsepower capacities?"

Be advised that Brunswick now owns Mercury Outboards and many boat brands including Lund, Crestliner, Lowe, Princecraft, and Sea Ray among others in order to maximize their outboard sales. If the length and weight of 2 boats are nearly equal then the wider beam boat may get a higher horsepower rating and it is the U.S. Coast Guard max. horsepower rating for the boat that you should be fixed on rather than a motor that is presently on it for a sale.

buckmaster7600 09-13-2021 11:41 AM

[QUOTE=rdiddy;6596598]One of the reasons I was eyeballing the roller trailer was because any time I have ever seen a person with a bunk trailer that is more than 4 or 5 years old, the carpeting on the bunks is always damaged or worn right off. In my mind the rollers really wouldn't require as much upkeep, no?

Can I ask why you hate them?

I have a Jeep Wrangler 4 door and the max towing capacity on it is apparently only 3500 pounds. How does the second axle alleviate weight restriction concerns?

Thanks for the suggestions[/QUOTE]


Changing the carpet on a bunk is a 20 minute job at the launch, just donít pick a busy day.

Bunks are generally easier to load, Iím almost always alone and being able to coast up onto the trailer climb down a couple cranks and Iím out of the way is something that Basically canít be done with rollers.

Second axle makes the boat follow your rig more stable. Less chances of an accident in case of a blowout etc.

At 3500#ís can you get into an 18ft boat and be under your tow capacity?

My 20ft tiller with a 150 loaded weighs right at 3500 on the trailer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welder guy 09-13-2021 12:19 PM

If you're thinking about a roller trailer add a drotto latch! They are a great addition

REW 09-13-2021 12:20 PM

A couple of thoughts:
For a motor - I would go with a Yamaha or a Suzuki

Go with your choice of boat. If you want a softer and drier ride, go with a glass boat.

For a depth finder, go with a 12 inch screen. Be aware of the size so that you can be sure that the windshield and console layout will permit its installation.

You might consider the Lowrance Ghost trolling motor in the 36 volt motor with its brushless and cable free design.

If going with the Ghost, then go with Lowrance Electronics so that everything is plug and play.

For a trailer, go with a combo roller and bunk. That gives you the best of both world. Special order the trailer so that all rollers on the trailer are 12 inch wide self centering rollers all of the way from the stern to the bow of the trailer. Easy loading, but still have the stability and hull cushion of a bunk. The 12 inch wide self centering rollers insure easy loading and unloading every time.

Note:
Any time that you launch at a very steep launch, while in the parking lot, disconnect your safety chain, and snap on a 20 foot lead rope. Then, take the lead rope and put a couple of wraps around the winch stand. Now, back down to the water, with the winch strap still tight and locked. Once you you are in launching position at the top of the very steep loading area, hold the double wrapped lead rope tight. Then, tighten the winch enough to unlock it and ease off the tension on the winch, while holding the boat in place with the lead rope. Due to the tension likely on the lead rope you will likely not be able to unsnap the winch hook at this point. So, just loosen the lead rope a bit, to allow the boat to begin to move back. At the earliest opportunity when the tension on the lead rope becomes more loose, unsnap the winch strap and then continue to pay out line until the boat is fully launched.

Best wishes with your boat, motor, and trailer search. Last year, the order to delivery time for many folks was 15-18 months. There are a lot of folks that ordered a boat 18 months ago, are just now getting their rigs. So, the sooner you order, the better the chance for you to have a boat and motor and trailer for the bulk of next years season.

I believe that you mentioned that you are in Canada? If so, double check with others and find out if the HP restrictions on the hulls are being enforced in your areas. I have a lot of Canadian friends who routinely run boats with motors that are 50-100 hp above the hull ratings. Don't know if it is legal or not in your area.


Take care

Mark Pothen 09-13-2021 07:34 PM

When I had aluminum boats I had great luck with shorwlandr trailers. They were always painted. I had an alumacraft 185 competitor for 13 years. Never had an issue with the shorwlandr. Not one area of rust on it.

I'm sold on the Goodyear tires for the trailer.

I've owned mercs for 25 years and have had no issues. I've always wanted a Yamaha. 😆

Yamaha merc Suzuki are all excellent engines. I know of 2 guys that have the merc Pro xs and love them. Yamaha are known to be super reliable. Your choice on that.

Mark Pothen 09-13-2021 07:36 PM

I would guess with that boat and a 200 you would be going with a tandem trailer?

7 Mag 09-14-2021 11:20 AM

[QUOTE=rdiddy;6596522]Anyone want to weigh in on varying motor options? I pretty much gather that Merc is the default motor any boat comes with.


Is there any benefit going to a Honda or Yamaha outboard? I see the Honda option is approx $800 more than the default merc.


Also, I have searched and search for a clear answer to this but haven't really come up with a definitive answer... how big is too big for a console mounted fish finder? Most guys I see go with something between a 7 to 10 inch Helix or the like. I don't want it to be too big to the point where it obstructs the driver's view, plus I really don't know what comfortably fits within the confines of a full windshield.[/QUOTE]

I have a 2019 1775 Impact XS, i had a dealer mount a 115HP Yamaha SHO and it's been a great motor, it'll run in the mid 40's GPS. As far as electronics i would not put a Helix 7 on the console, i have a 10 and it's just the right size in my opinion. The other thing to consider about a Helix 7 is there's no preset buttons to save screens and it's not compatible with the MSI from an Ulterra, DI will work but not side imaging.

rdiddy 09-14-2021 11:38 AM

[QUOTE=7 Mag;6596982]I have a 2019 1775 Impact XS, i had a dealer mount a 115HP Yamaha SHO and it's been a great motor, it'll run in the mid 40's GPS. As far as electronics i would not put a Helix 7 on the console, i have a 10 and it's just the right size in my opinion. The other thing to consider about a Helix 7 is there's no preset buttons to save screens and it's not compatible with the MSI from an Ulterra, DI will work but not side imaging.[/QUOTE]

So what is involved in getting a non-standard motor (something other than Merc or Honda) mounted on your new Lund? Do you have to procure the motor yourself and get it to the marina to have it rigged?

Is there any reason you know of why Lund doesn't offer 125 HP motors for it's 1775 class boats, rather than the common 115's? Is it simply that 125's aren't common?

Thanks for the info on the Helix 7 and the tip that a ten will nicely fit on the console. I dug and dug for information on that and I couldn't really find it discussed in any meaningful depth anywhere.

rdiddy 09-14-2021 11:40 AM

[QUOTE=Mark Pothen;6596802]When I had aluminum boats I had great luck with shorwlandr trailers. They were always painted. I had an alumacraft 185 competitor for 13 years. Never had an issue with the shorwlandr. Not one area of rust on it.

I'm sold on the Goodyear tires for the trailer.

I've owned mercs for 25 years and have had no issues. I've always wanted a Yamaha. 😆

Yamaha merc Suzuki are all excellent engines. I know of 2 guys that have the merc Pro xs and love them. Yamaha are known to be super reliable. Your choice on that.[/QUOTE]

I would consider a Yamaha outboard for sure. I don't see a lot of dealers, lund included offer them. Lund will sell you a honda but not a yamaha.

I will look at the crestliner and princecraft boat build tools, but I am pretty sure princecraft is merc only for sure.

7 Mag 09-14-2021 11:59 AM

[QUOTE=rdiddy;6596992]So what is involved in getting a non-standard motor (something other than Merc or Honda) mounted on your new Lund? Do you have to procure the motor yourself and get it to the marina to have it rigged?

Is there any reason you know of why Lund doesn't offer 125 HP motors for it's 1775 class boats, rather than the common 115's? Is it simply that 125's aren't common?

Thanks for the info on the Helix 7 and the tip that a ten will nicely fit on the console. I dug and dug for information on that and I couldn't really find it discussed in any meaningful depth anywhere.[/QUOTE]

The federal government regulates the horsepower of outboard motors that can be installed on boats. The maximum HP is determined by calculating the boat's factor (the length multiplied by the width) and then looking up the allowable engine size in a table. For recreational purpose the 115 HP on a 1775 Impact is plenty of motor for pulling tubes if you want to pull a skier you should step up to the 150 on an 1875. My 115 HP SHO is just fine on my boat, it doesn't need a bigger motor.

7 Mag 09-14-2021 12:02 PM

[QUOTE=rdiddy;6596992]So what is involved in getting a non-standard motor (something other than Merc or Honda) mounted on your new Lund? Do you have to procure the motor yourself and get it to the marina to have it rigged?

Is there any reason you know of why Lund doesn't offer 125 HP motors for it's 1775 class boats, rather than the common 115's? Is it simply that 125's aren't common?

Thanks for the info on the Helix 7 and the tip that a ten will nicely fit on the console. I dug and dug for information on that and I couldn't really find it discussed in any meaningful depth anywhere.[/QUOTE]

Some Lund dealers that sell Yamaha will sell a Yamaha on a Lund & they rig the boat themselves, i searched until i found one, i didn't order the motor myself.

Mark Pothen 09-14-2021 01:37 PM

Rdiddy. Pm sent


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