[DW]

Originally Posted by CI_Guy

I use a wedge based on the advice of a lifelong friend that was an aluminum welder and fabricator for over 30 years. I've quoted him several times on WC over the years. He repaired lower units for several shops in the Twin City area. Most of the repairs were needed because of an impact with some underwater object, but every year he had a few caused transom saver bars. The vast majority of these were caused by OPERATOR ERROR. The little plastic nobs on the screws or the V shaped rubber boot that the motor rested on were worn out and there was metal to metal contact wearing a hole in the lower unit, or people trying to use the transom saver to keep the motor from swinging to one side and put to much downward pressure on the on the motor and road vibration would crack the housing. Another problem in his opinion was that the strap connected to the front of the boat pulls the boat forward but has very little downward pull. If you used a bar type saver he strongly recommended running a ratchet strap from the bow eye under the trailer frame to hold the bow of the boat down. Years ago I had him read one of the many transom saver debates on here, he said that the bouncing of motors you see going over train tracks and bumps has more to do with the bow moving up and down than the transom or motor. He thought that the spring loaded bar savers were the best option if you were going to use one.
I realize that there are people here that would rather find their daughter working in a cat house than see their son pull a boat down the road without a transom saver bar, but like the Ford/Chevy, Lowrance/Himminbird or Ginger/Maryanne debates this one will be back again and again..............

I am probably the number one advocate for bar savers, and I agree with your friend’s assessment. As an advocate, the number one message is that the boat and the sprung portion of the trailer should move as one. When moving as one, it is impossible to create damaging forces on the lower unit with a bar saver. With or without a bar saver, if there is movement between the boat and the sprung portion of the trailer there are multiple points where damage to the boat, and trailer may occur, and even transmit undesirable motion to the tow vehicle.

My rig came with an Atwood saver which has two rubber pads on a little bar on each side that pivot to conform to the shape of the lower unit. I have used this saver towing an estimated 80,000 miles. At 50,000 miles, I replaced the pads as they were too worn and eventually the metal screws and backing would have gouged the lower unit. To me, and a lot folks of average and above intelligence, replacing the pads is like replacing worn tires before they blow up. Yet some people on this forum think this takes extraordinary ability. All I say is if you can’t handle this, sell your boat because there are far more challenging responsibilities of boat operation than properly fitting a bar saver.