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  #11  
Old 01-27-2016, 10:13 AM
Hot Runr Guy Hot Runr Guy is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psiena View Post
"Plug is not near the motor for structural reasons".. i.e. I am working with a Whaler, Montauk- solid foam core, so I have to run a long a loose cable, above deck, from the motor up to the console, where my plug will be. I will connect and disconnect from there. Would love to have it all hidden, but no tunnels to go through, or hollows to fish a line through on this model.
a Whaler Montauk? We don't get many of those around here! Is the TM battery going to be located in the center console?

HRG
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  #12  
Old 01-27-2016, 12:53 PM
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David Anderson David Anderson is offline
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FYI, #10 ga is about 1 ohm per 1000 feet so about .001 ohm/foot. The voltage drop across any resistance is based on Current x ohms. Say running full bore the rule of thumb used to be that at 12 volts, 1 amp/1 pound of thrust. 10 feet is .01 ohms. Say at 55 lbs of thrust full bore you are drawing 55 amps, so 55 amps x .01 ohms = .55 volts per side (1.1 total) or about 9%, at full throttle bore. Resistance drops in half every 3 sizes you go down so 7 ga has 50% of the resistance, half the losses.
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  #13  
Old 01-27-2016, 03:02 PM
Psiena Psiena is offline
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Originally Posted by Hot Runr Guy View Post
a Whaler Montauk? We don't get many of those around here! Is the TM battery going to be located in the center console?

HRG
Yes.
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  #14  
Old 01-27-2016, 03:04 PM
Psiena Psiena is offline
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Originally Posted by FirefishTracker View Post
Just a thought, Did you install a breaker? This will protect the wiring from any damage. I would install this http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Produc...RCUIT-BREAKER/

Adds safety and also allows you to shut power down to the motor. I use it since I have a child and its a extra level of protection from them getting hurt.
That's on my list for sure.. Had a 50 amp on a transom mount, stepping up to a 60amp here.
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  #15  
Old 01-27-2016, 03:10 PM
Psiena Psiena is offline
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Originally Posted by David Anderson View Post
FYI, #10 ga is about 1 ohm per 1000 feet so about .001 ohm/foot. The voltage drop across any resistance is based on Current x ohms. Say running full bore the rule of thumb used to be that at 12 volts, 1 amp/1 pound of thrust. 10 feet is .01 ohms. Say at 55 lbs of thrust full bore you are drawing 55 amps, so 55 amps x .01 ohms = .55 volts per side (1.1 total) or about 9%, at full throttle bore. Resistance drops in half every 3 sizes you go down so 7 ga has 50% of the resistance, half the losses.
Hmmm... Truly appreciate the calcs.. But now how to assess degradations on hybrids-- that is splices a 6 AWG to 1- 4 feet of the stock 10 AWG.. In short for every foot of 10AWG how much loss to the 6 AWG am I taking over say a 12 foot run..
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  #16  
Old 01-27-2016, 03:41 PM
Hot Runr Guy Hot Runr Guy is online now
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just for kicks, I pulled the prints for the 170 Montauk. If you had ordered the factory 12V trolling motor option, it would have come with #8 wire.

But, looking at the harness drawing, it indicates pulling wires forward thru a rigging tube, from under the console to the area behind the bow light. I wonder if that rigging tube is really there, so you can run the TM wires under the floor?

http://www.bostonwhaler.com/boat_gra...2010004608.pdf

http://www.bostonwhaler.com/boat_gra...2010004597.pdf

to get to the drawings if you have a different hull, go here: http://www.bostonwhaler.com/page.asp...4791/page.aspx

HRG
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  #17  
Old 01-27-2016, 06:58 PM
Psiena Psiena is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Runr Guy View Post
just for kicks, I pulled the prints for the 170 Montauk. If you had ordered the factory 12V trolling motor option, it would have come with #8 wire.

But, looking at the harness drawing, it indicates pulling wires forward thru a rigging tube, from under the console to the area behind the bow light. I wonder if that rigging tube is really there, so you can run the TM wires under the floor?

http://www.bostonwhaler.com/boat_gra...2010004608.pdf

http://www.bostonwhaler.com/boat_gra...2010004597.pdf

to get to the drawings if you have a different hull, go here: http://www.bostonwhaler.com/page.asp...4791/page.aspx

HRG
Thanks HRG.... But I have the classic Montauk style, 1986. That tunnel did not come until much later, 2003 I think. From the 70s to 80's electronics were minimally thought out on these boats. I had to install my own switch panel in the console, and fuse block etc.. Bow lighting runs from console to stern then up to rub rail, then back up to bow. Love the style of this boat, teak and all, but this is the greatest pain about it-- only one short sump tunnel from console to stern.
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