Reloading ?

[Shellback]

Just getting into reloading. I have an ultrasonic cleaner I plan to use on the brass, and I ordered the Hornady cleaning solution. Do you clean the brass first, or resize and knock out the primer first?, the clean?

[TNtroller]

Depends on how you want to go about it. Most people with ultrasonic cleaners knock the primers out with a standard de-capping die so the ultrasonic treatment will also clean the primer pockets and to keep the grit/grime/powder residue out of their sizing dies. After drying the brass, they re-size.

If you don't mind the crud in your sizing die, then re-size 'em first, and then clean.

[grizzley]

I always clean the brass first before resizing, you don't want any contaminates in the die or as little as possible.
I would use the universal de-capping die to remove the primers if you wanted them removed before cleaning.

[Burr]

I'm in line with the others. Use a standard decapping die to pop the primers out - since your method of cleaning the brass will also clean the primer pocket. A decapping die is reasonably priced addition to the bench.

[Shellback]

Thanks for all the responses. I ordered a universal decapping die for future use. I have already used an ultrasonic cleaner to do about 600 rounds. I'll decap them and see how clean I got them.

[rickn]

If you don't have a primer pocket cleaner, get one. Dirty pockets can have quite an effect on accuracy.

[whitedogone]

I do the same as most guys have said. Clean them before they hit the dies. I then uniform the primer pockets and flash hole. That will get that area good enough.

[Shellback]

Was depriming some 5.56 today. Some primers pushed out easily, some just a little more effort. and some would not come out. Bent 2 pins trying to push the primer out. I know some 5.56 primers are staked in. Do you think that was the case with those that wouldn't come out? I have a primer pocket swaging tool, and it worked easily in the cases the primer came out of. Unfortunately I can't get the primers out of the cases that may be staked to see if the swaging die works.

[TNtroller]

Those cases that bent the decapping pin are probably "berdan" primed cases which are not "reloadable" in most opinions. They have 2 or 3 small flash holes instead the usual 1 flash hole on most brass cases. OR the flash hole is off center in the primer pocket and the decapping pin missed the flash hole and caused the bent/broken pin.

You can use a small flashlight to see inside the case and see what the obstruction/issue is. If berdan primed, just throw the case away. Not worth the effort needed.

If you just bent or broke the decapping pin and not the mandrel in the decapping die, you can get replacement "pins" at most stores that stock reloading suppplies for RCBS. I have a LEE decapping die and you have to buy the entire mandrel/pin on their decapping dies due to design diffeences. The LEE decappers are a bit "stronger" due to their one piece design and the collet type nut at the top of the die to allow the mandrel or pin to be pushed up when hitting an obstruction but all of them work in the same manner.

When you feel unexpected/more resistance to popping the primer, slow down and go easy on the ram to make sure things are lined up good, or pull the case out and inspect it closer. Tossing a brass case is usually cheaper than a new decapping pin.

[clawman]

My process is to remove primers, clean primer pockets with hand tool, vibra sonic cases. I'm not overly concerned about keeping dies clean because I clean them regularly anyway. If you don't clean inside of dies you get a certain amount of lube buildup and even a stray grain of powder.
As mentioned earlier definitely get primer pocket uniforming tool. That is a one time task but good idea for consistency which = accuracy.