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  #11  
Old 10-03-2016, 12:07 PM
Burr Burr is offline
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For my rental properties - the plywood upgrade was worth it to me due to durability. At least my renters don't seem to put any effort into thinking about taking care of things - they have to be designed "durable". The plywood upgrade I thought was really reasonable. It was a large kitchen - I paid $220 more for plywood boxes.

At the same time - particle board boxes will last a lifetime for my family. Point is - application makes a difference for specific owners.

Doors and drawers are really easy to order separately is you would like to build your own cases. Biggest savings for me was to build my own cases - order drawers and doors unfinished, and spray them/install myself. Knocked off over 2/3's of a 30K quote. Couple years later another unit was being replaced by insurance covered event - identical floor plan - cabinets ran over $40K but that does include a couple bathroom vanities.

I'll build my cases, buy the doors and drawers, I'll finish and install, and use the extra to buy a new boat...
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  #12  
Old 10-03-2016, 08:11 PM
Hanr3's Avatar
Hanr3 Hanr3 is offline
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Cabinets are graded. Low end stuff is particle board, next up MDF, then Plywood, and top end is solid wood. Note that plywood cabinets are also called solid wood cabinets by some manufactures.

Custom cabinets add cost regardless of grade.
Cabinets come in standard widths, and can be ordered in just about any size as long as you stay within 3" increments. 24", 27", 30", etc...

The real cost is hardware. Drawer slides can be priced anywhere from $6 a pair to over $100 a pair. Features add cost, heavy-weight, self closures, push to open, full length opening, etc.

$15K for low end stuff? How many cabinets are you ordering, uppers and lowers?
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  #13  
Old 10-04-2016, 04:09 AM
rzep rzep is offline
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Not ordering anything for a while. Feeling out my options. I am perfectly comfortable with table saw and can make my own boxes out of plywood. Staininng or painting. Is not a rocket science. Solid doors and drawers seems to be reasonable online. I have 20 foot galley kitchen with cabinets on each side,mixed in with stove, fridge and microwave. As it is now, 14 cabinets from 12 to 30 inch wide.
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  #14  
Old 10-04-2016, 04:56 AM
jfaisten jfaisten is offline
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Kitchen cabinets are tough to buy because there are so many manufactures in this market. Drove me crazy when I built my kitchen a couple years ago. Of course there are a ton of suppliers in the market because there is a ton of many to be made. CKM gave some really good advice -- I ended up getting cheaper cabinet boxes and spent more on doors and hardware. Self closing doors are worth the $$
Good luck
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  #15  
Old 10-04-2016, 07:39 AM
rwl rwl is offline
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Default Handy guys look at this

I think this is the best tool I ever bought for building cabinets (and I have everything). I have built complete kitchens with islands and the whole works using this program. It is cheap and easy to figure out. Seriously punch everything in and your cutlist is right there for rails, stiles, faceframes and everything.

I have no affiliation to the program, just a very satisfied user. I kinda sound like a sales pitch, sorry about that.

http://www.cabinetplanner.com/index.html
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  #16  
Old 10-04-2016, 10:22 AM
Atgman Atgman is offline
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Lots of choices out there. I am biased towards custom cabinets from having built and designed them for over 10 years. Custom cabinets will most often have 3/4 box construction, modular from a box store generally 1/2, even have seen some 3/8 on job sites. Things to watch for in modular cabinets are the finished ends are often just a vinyl simulated wood grain over particle board or you have to skin it with 1/4. Also have noticed that the solid raised panel doors they advertise are often not solid. What they are doing is vacuming veneer over the center panel that is particle board. You can tell this by looking at the end grain where it's routered. Same thing with supposedly solid interior passage doors. Like someone said good hardware is the key to drawer longevity. Imho best door hinges Blum or Grass hidden, best drawer tracks tend to undermounts I prefer the Blum self closing. I would get plenty of bids there can be a wide range in custom shops, some being very close to or even less at times to modular. If you buy doors look a around there are shops that just build doors And drawers for smaller custom shops and will be priced less than some internet shops. I would point you towards some but I live Minnesota. Good luck.
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  #17  
Old 10-04-2016, 10:26 AM
CKM CKM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hanr3 View Post
Cabinets are graded. Low end stuff is particle board, next up MDF, then Plywood, and top end is solid wood. Note that plywood cabinets are also called solid wood cabinets by some manufactures.

Custom cabinets add cost regardless of grade.
Cabinets come in standard widths, and can be ordered in just about any size as long as you stay within 3" increments. 24", 27", 30", etc...

The real cost is hardware. Drawer slides can be priced anywhere from $6 a pair to over $100 a pair. Features add cost, heavy-weight, self closures, push to open, full length opening, etc.

$15K for low end stuff? How many cabinets are you ordering, uppers and lowers?
who makes a cabinet with a solid wood box instead of particle board,MDF or plywood?
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  #18  
Old 10-04-2016, 10:56 AM
reddog reddog is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CKM View Post
who makes a cabinet with a solid wood box instead of particle board,MDF or plywood?
I know some Amish cabinet/furniture shops that do..

No major cabinet company that I know of. Woodharbor, Crystal, Dakota,, etc..
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  #19  
Old 10-04-2016, 11:57 AM
rzep rzep is offline
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Can MDF or particle board box support granite or quartz countertops over years? I need to mention that we use our kitchen daily and it takes beating...so durability and abuse resistance is a plus..
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  #20  
Old 10-04-2016, 12:24 PM
Atgman Atgman is offline
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Yes it can support it just fine. Good construction with an adequate amount of partitions going to the floor. Bases are screwed to the wall in the back along the nailer to the studs. There is plenty of strength.
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