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  #11  
Old 05-05-2010, 08:46 AM
fisher-1 fisher-1 is offline
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Location: Scarborough, Ontario, CANADA.
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I e-mailed the company with this question last week, no reply so far , I will post it here if I get any.
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  #12  
Old 05-05-2010, 08:57 AM
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Javelin360 Javelin360 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Troy,OH
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Default Caution for Heavy Boats!

I would be very cautious before putting these on a trailer with a boat over 1,500 lbs. I don't know what their advertising states? I know the plastic glide on strips you can buy for your trailer can "blister" your hull pretty bad if the boat is over 1,500 lbs.
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  #13  
Old 11-13-2019, 02:08 PM
fun4fish fun4fish is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2013
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Thumbs up Could not be more over joyed!!!

Purchased new trailer that was custom fit for my Alumacraft Trophy 195 this spring. Only reason for new trailer was previous one was rusting though only two years old and wanted galvanized model. Unfortunately they had stopped producing roller trailer for the boat and the new one had to be bunk trailer. Though it was custom fit for the boat, it is terrible fit. Basically required all of 200 HP outboard to load and unload boat - big embarrassment at "no power loading" launches. Spent all season dealing with manufacturer and dealer with bottom line being the trailer was built as designed even if it is lousy fit. Bit the bullet and opted to try the Ultimate boards. Just installed Ultimate Bunk Supreme model bunks and could not be more over joyed! Boat slides on and off like a dream.
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  #14  
Old 11-13-2019, 05:38 PM
Marty59 Marty59 is online now
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Have to agree. Had them for many years on my Lund Baron. Added a two speed winch and it was never an issue loading the boat. Unloading, you definitely have to leave the winch strap on until your transom is over water. One tap of the breaks and the boat is going!

Marty
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  #15  
Old 12-14-2019, 12:01 PM
Gary Korsgaden Gary Korsgaden is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Park Rapids, Minnesota
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Default Couple of Points

On the newer fiberglass boats, some have experienced blistering. Also watch your span between bracing on your trailer. REW's advice to prewet or wash a good one. Be sure to snap the bow eye. Lastly not as strong as wood. But a decent replacement board
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  #16  
Old 08-09-2020, 09:03 AM
toula toula is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2013
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Want to wake up this thread as I am forced to decide on bunk replacements. 18’ aluminum f&s with 150 4 stroke. Two bunk trailer....read lots about hull scratches, space between brackets and bowing of bunk, bunks sitting in the sun untrailered, cost vs traditional replacement, ease of diy install. What’s the best recommendation from the current user squad...thanks as always.
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  #17  
Old 08-26-2020, 09:58 AM
hawg hawg is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: North Central Minnesota
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So if I unhook my boat before backing down the access like I do now with carpeted bunk will the boat slide off like a roller trailer would, right on to the cement? These look dangerous as heck for power on / slide off like most bunk guys are. Am I missing something here? Why not just buy a roller trailer?
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  #18  
Old 08-26-2020, 11:08 AM
Marty59 Marty59 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawg View Post
So if I unhook my boat before backing down the access like I do now with carpeted bunk will the boat slide off like a roller trailer would, right on to the cement? These look dangerous as heck for power on / slide off like most bunk guys are. Am I missing something here? Why not just buy a roller trailer?
The boat will slide off the trailer very easily ....you could end up on the parking lot pavement if you unhook the bow before over water! Like them better than rollers because they offer way more support surface to the hull! I' don't power on but the hull does slide up very easy using only the winch. No straining during loading.


Marty
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  #19  
Old 08-26-2020, 06:00 PM
hawg hawg is offline
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I only use the winch to tighten it down for towing. These aren’t for bunk guys.
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