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  #1  
Old 08-10-2017, 08:46 AM
Rather Be Lucky Rather Be Lucky is offline
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Default Another Lund rotten transom

I have an '03 1700 Lund Angler tiller. Was and is the last boat to buy. IT is and has been a very good package that has been great for 14 years. The T8 kicker is solid on the port side. The F80 has a very slight flex when standing and bouncing on the cavitation plate when trimmed up about transom saver height. The Vantage on the starboard side shows the most problem.. transom is "squashed" in about 1/2" from the Vantage to the F80. I'm sure it will be able to handle the remainder of the year with out any problems. Have called the dealer to see if Lund will help out ... no answer yet. Lifetime warranty didn't start until '07. T-Mac explained that. Have read here at WC that some have gotten a new transom from Lund and the horror stories about the labor costs! I know I'm not alone and would like to know from the guys who have done it themselves with a new Lund supplied wooden transom, how it went. Has anyone tried the injection repair or the seacast pour. I have not removed the motors or the transom cap. But did poke a wire through the cap screw holes.. solid wood is not gone but it went in too deep on the starboard side.

Will have to be a winter project. May have to do 2, my buddy Dan now sees the same thing.. his Lund is a '99??

I really find it hard to believe Lund used unsealed/untreated plywood for a transom, then decided to not seal anything above waterline! IT'S A BOAT!!! In 1979 I built a wooden basement.. Treated 5/8 plywood and 2x6 studs on 12" centers set on pea gravel... and tubes of sealer! 40 years later it's just as it started!! So it was not new technology!!

The help I need is not to bash Lund or tell me to trade. Looking for ideas, solutions, pitfalls.. it will be a huge project!

Thanks in advance for any advice,
Swede
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  #2  
Old 08-10-2017, 10:17 AM
johnboat johnboat is offline
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You've got this. I replaced my transom on my 1988 Lund Barron 2100 with an I/O. Take a bunch of before pics for reference. Use MARINE GRADE PLYWOOD, not the pressure treated stuff. And yes, untreated construction grade plywood was used on mine. Go figure. There is no doubt it is now stronger and solid than from the factory.
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  #3  
Old 08-10-2017, 10:51 AM
REW REW is offline
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Rather be lucky.

For now, take a piece of angle that is 3 inches by 3 inches by 1/4 -3/8th inches thick.

For example:
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant...SABEgKC-_D_BwE


Cut a piece that is wide enough to fully span the width of the transom from gunnel to gunnel.

Remove the vantage, kicker and the top bolts from the big motor.

Place the aluminum angle next to the transom on the inside of the boat and drill holes for the main motor and kicker. Then, one more hole at each end of the aluminum angle board near the gunnel to secure the angle to the transom. Bolt everything down tight and enjoy the boat for the next few years. Yes, the transom board is going, but the aluminum angle will stiffen the transom sufficiently by spanning to good wood, that the boat will be usable for a few more years.

Obviously, use common sense and don't continue using the boat if the transom board completely rots away.

Good luck

Last edited by REW; 08-10-2017 at 10:59 AM.
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  #4  
Old 08-10-2017, 12:21 PM
EWK EWK is online now
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Nicollet County Mn & Winnebago County Iowa
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Default Lund Transom

I had a 2003 Pro V tiller That I replaced the transom my self . Not a big deal , I got the transom from Lund thru the dealer and about 35 hours later better than new . Kind of fun actually . Would I do it again ? no problem. If you have any Handy skills , get a Cherry picker to remove motor & have at it . Take your time , be observant , Use 3M sealant & enjoy . Plus , I'm an "old Duffer "of 76yrs.
EWK
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  #5  
Old 08-10-2017, 12:32 PM
Burr Burr is offline
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You tube and posts on this site are your friend.
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  #6  
Old 08-10-2017, 02:25 PM
lacywbosu lacywbosu is offline
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Location: .prospect, ohio
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Default composite

My 03 Lund fisherman rotted, but I had it in the water 4 months a year for the last 8. Still, if it was a composite. The Lund dealer in Port Clinton could of gotten me a free wooden transom to replace, but I had him make me a composite and install. Wonderful job 7000 dollars later. But no more wood to rot.
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  #7  
Old 08-10-2017, 04:43 PM
Duckjunkie194 Duckjunkie194 is offline
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Location: Lake County, IL
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My 04 Explorer 1800 had a rotten transom. So did my buddies 99 1775 Pro-V, and so did his bro-in-laws 2025 Pro-V. I got the run around from Lund about it being prorated and not covered. After a month of daily emails, they graciously agreed to ship me a new transom board. The catch was that would only send it to a Lund dealer. My local dealers didnt want to receive the board because they were not doing the replacement, nor did they want to. Eventually I found a dealer to receive it for me. My repair guy used their transom piece as a template. He made me a better one and installed it. That was about 3 yrs ago. I love my boat, its paid for, in great shape, and fits my needs wonderfully. If I could find one that matches the needs that this one fills, I would sell it because of the Lund customer service and runaround I got from them. I miss the days of taking responsibility for your actions and standing behind your product. Good luck with your project. It does not seem to be a difficult endeavor if you are handy. I just did not have the time or space to attempt the repair in a timely manner.

If you can remove your transom in as close to one piece as possible you can use it as a template and not have to deal with Lund. My repair (and my buddies) was done at Landcraft Marine in IL. I also checked with Fountain of Youth for Boats in WI. It was a coin toss on who to go with. I was impressed with both, but Landcraft could get to it sooner.

Last edited by Duckjunkie194; 08-10-2017 at 04:45 PM.
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  #8  
Old 08-10-2017, 07:36 PM
2Rod 2Rod is offline
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Location: Cheney, KS, USA.
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I own a 1993 Lund 1775. The original transom rotted out in 2000 and was replaced by Lund at a cost of about $1500. I am not the original owner. The quote from Lund was $3000, but they agreed to reduce the price by 50%.

That transom rotted out last year. Over the past winter I replaced the wood with SeaCast. I determined I did not want to sell my boat and that really made my decision for me - go with the SeaCast over wood. It was time consuming, but I wanted to do it myself. As noted above, YouTube has a lot of SeaCast pour videos, and I watched all of them. The company helped me determine what volume of product to order and also gave me contact information for a transom repair shop in Michigan where the manager was willing and interested in giving some real world advice based on his experiences using SeaCast.

I have a photo album on WC that shows images of my project.

I would not hesitate to take on this project again, though I will never have to, as my transom will never rot!
If you have specific questions feel free to PM me.
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  #9  
Old 08-11-2017, 12:14 PM
law57 law57 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EWK View Post
I had a 2003 Pro V tiller That I replaced the transom my self . Not a big deal , I got the transom from Lund thru the dealer and about 35 hours later better than new . Kind of fun actually . Would I do it again ? no problem. If you have any Handy skills , get a Cherry picker to remove motor & have at it . Take your time , be observant , Use 3M sealant & enjoy . Plus , I'm an "old Duffer "of 76yrs.
EWK

Yep - I re-did a transom last summer. I bought an engine hoist for $100 and used it to remove/hold the outboard until I was done. Then I sold it for $100. I wish had kept it - to lift batteries into the boat(s) and other uses...
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  #10  
Old 11-19-2017, 02:19 PM
Rather Be Lucky Rather Be Lucky is offline
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The transom is fixed!! Lund supplied a composite transom.. plesantly suprised as was told it would be wood. It all went well.. was labor intensive but not techinically tough. Many thanks to my friend Stan for the use of his heated, well lit garage, my brother, and a bunch of others who dropped in to help. Had to remove some foam flotation.. only as much as I had to. My next question.. replace foam or not? if replace, what will work? Kinda leary on Great Stuff.. will it mix with existing foam or destroy it? would only need a couple of cans... Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks, Swede
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