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Ranger Parasitic battery drain - Walleye Message Central
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  #1  
Old 03-25-2020, 08:41 AM
ColoGregS ColoGregS is offline
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Default Ranger Parasitic battery drain

Thankfully just found out that our Governor declared construction as an essential service, so we are still working for now.

I have a new to me 2017 Ranger with 250 E-Tec HO, 10 hp kicker, ITroll system, 7" and 12" HDS Gen 3 flush mounted. The boat has 15 hours on it and the starting battery is a group 24 Deka that was put in the boat Sept 2019. I have issues with battery draw down and am hoping that you electrical wizards can give a guy some ideas on how to isolate the problem.

I charged the battery and kept the battery isolator switch off for a week and the battery was still reading 12.7 volts. I powered up the boat by opening the switch and 90 mins later was reading 12.3 volts, this morning 8 hrs later from opening the switch originally, I am now reading 12.1 volts.

Previously I had checked the draw readings at the fuse panel and only the electronics circuit was showing any draw at the panel. It was drawing .443 every other fuse was reading 0.0 My knowledge of current/draw is limited but I am fairly certain that with everything shut off it should be reading 0 or close to zero.

What should my next step be, obviously I need to do something because if I am out fishing and using the kicker and locators my battery will not be starting the big engine after 6 hrs of fishing.
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  #2  
Old 03-25-2020, 08:50 AM
REW REW is offline
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Colo,
The first thing to do, is to remove your group 24 starting battery and replace it with a group 31 battery.

You are pulling 1/2 an amp when your isolater switch is opened. You indicate that it is the electronics panel. To find the cause of the 1/2 amp draw, you need to eliminate any wires connected to the electronics panel until the reading goes to 0. Then, follow that wire that you disconnected to see what element in the boat is causing the current draw.

For example if you have a powered gps antenna, the current draw may be there. If that were the case you would simply have to add a switch in the wire that is going to the circuit that is causing the draw and turn it off and your draw would be gone.

But, if you are powering your electronics from the starting battery and do not have a separate house battery be sure to remove your current group 24 battery and get a much larger group 31 battery to supply the necessary electrical power to everything in the boat.

Best wishes.
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  #3  
Old 03-25-2020, 09:44 AM
Yellow Fever Yellow Fever is offline
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I have a similar set up and run a 31 as was mentioned, 24 is questionable. I have the 15HO as my kicker and the charging unit on that model keeps my battery at 13.5 while trolling all day. Not sure about the output on the 10.
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  #4  
Old 03-25-2020, 10:06 AM
ColoGregS ColoGregS is offline
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Unfortunately I have no alternator on the 10 HP
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  #5  
Old 03-25-2020, 12:34 PM
REW REW is offline
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Colo,
Is your kicker a manual start with no tilt and trim? What is the year, make and model motor of your kicker?

If it is an electric start you will have a charging system on the motor of some size.

Take care
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  #6  
Old 03-25-2020, 01:57 PM
Coho975 Coho975 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColoGregS View Post
Thankfully just found out that our Governor declared construction as an essential service, so we are still working for now.

I have a new to me 2017 Ranger with 250 E-Tec HO, 10 hp kicker, ITroll system, 7" and 12" HDS Gen 3 flush mounted. The boat has 15 hours on it and the starting battery is a group 24 Deka that was put in the boat Sept 2019. I have issues with battery draw down and am hoping that you electrical wizards can give a guy some ideas on how to isolate the problem.

I charged the battery and kept the battery isolator switch off for a week and the battery was still reading 12.7 volts. I powered up the boat by opening the switch and 90 mins later was reading 12.3 volts, this morning 8 hrs later from opening the switch originally, I am now reading 12.1 volts.

Previously I had checked the draw readings at the fuse panel and only the electronics circuit was showing any draw at the panel. It was drawing .443 every other fuse was reading 0.0 My knowledge of current/draw is limited but I am fairly certain that with everything shut off it should be reading 0 or close to zero.

What should my next step be, obviously I need to do something because if I am out fishing and using the kicker and locators my battery will not be starting the big engine after 6 hrs of fishing.
Greg,
Your on the right track. When you say the "electronics circuit", I'm assuming you mean the power to your graphs. First thing I would do is pull the battery lead, either one, and put your meter in series with it. While monitoring the current draw, pull the fuse to your graphs to verify that is the only draw you have. If it goes to zero, proceed. I know you checked the individual fuses, but someone could have spliced power off from anywhere. Once you verify it is only the graph circuit, pull the power cords from the back of the graphs one at a time and isolate which one is drawing. The majority of these phantom draws I've dealt with have come from the stereo.
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  #7  
Old 03-25-2020, 03:24 PM
ColoGregS ColoGregS is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REW View Post
Colo,
Is your kicker a manual start with no tilt and trim? What is the year, make and model motor of your kicker?

If it is an electric start you will have a charging system on the motor of some size.

Take care
It is an electric start with T&T but was told that there was no charging system on the 10 HP. 2017 Evinrude Model E10PGL4AFB

Coho thanks for the advice will give that a shot tonight.

Last edited by ColoGregS; 03-25-2020 at 03:49 PM.
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  #8  
Old 03-25-2020, 04:48 PM
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ltrain ltrain is offline
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According to Evinrude site, an electric start 9.8 will have an 6 amp alternator. Open it up and take a look
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  #9  
Old 03-25-2020, 05:02 PM
REW REW is offline
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Colo,
I am guessing that everyone is right.

I suspect - without checking - that your motor does not have a stand a lone alternator.

But, I also suspect that your motor has a charging coil on the inside of the flywheel to supply 6 amps of current when the motor is running at at least 1/2 throttle.

I also suspect that your motor likely needs no more than 1 amp to run and would thus give you 5 amps of charging current if connected.

If you have a voltmeter, you can easily check for the presence of a charging ability.

Put the motor in a garbage can or hook up muffs if muff are available.

Then, put your volt meter on the battery that is connected to the kicker. Check the voltage. Then start the motor and run it up to about 1/2 throttle. Recheck the voltage. If the voltage is even .1 volt higher than what it was before starting the motor you have a charging system of some sort on the motor. If you were to run it long enough, say 4 hours, with no other electrical loads connected to the battery the battery voltage should rise to 14.4 volts which is indicative of a fully charged lead acid battery.

Take care

Last edited by REW; 03-25-2020 at 05:06 PM.
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  #10  
Old 03-25-2020, 07:11 PM
muskyed muskyed is offline
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Your ITrol probably has some draw, I know my Trollmaster does. I'll also say that I would probably move up from that 24 size battery to something larger.
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