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  #31  
Old 08-27-2019, 09:50 PM
Shotgun Shotgun is offline
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As mentioned in a earlier post I had a Lund composite transom installed in my Fishreman. On this particular repair the dealer did run into an issue that they went to Lund for assistance, which corrected the problem. If the pricing at the factory is competitive with a dealer repair, for the reason mentioned previously, I'd go with the in house repair (expertise/experience/knowledge). My composite transom with shipping was around $1,180. Dealer spent 22 hours on the repair. The repair quotes that I recieved went from $3,600 to $4,100. If I recall correctly, the wood transom board was $300 to $400 less.

Last edited by Shotgun; 08-27-2019 at 09:54 PM.
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  #32  
Old 08-27-2019, 10:12 PM
HodakaD HodakaD is offline
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The nice lady at Lund corporate I talked to said that the estimated time for the repair would be 32 hours. Their shop rate is $120/hour. I questioned the 32 hour estimate, and she said that was a generic time estimate based on a boat the size of mine. I thought it seemed high based on the fact that I have corner caps where the transom and gunnel intersect and there would be no grinding, welding, and repainting involved. I appreciate all the responses.
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  #33  
Old 08-27-2019, 10:37 PM
Shotgun Shotgun is offline
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My corners had to be cut off for replacement. The dealer had two very nice stainless steel corner castings made by a shop, polished them up to look like chrome and installed. Probably saved him some hours as no painting and welding on his part. Good luck.
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  #34  
Old 08-28-2019, 08:44 AM
DW DW is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shotgun View Post
As mentioned in a earlier post I had a Lund composite transom installed in my Fishreman. On this particular repair the dealer did run into an issue that they went to Lund for assistance, which corrected the problem. If the pricing at the factory is competitive with a dealer repair, for the reason mentioned previously, I'd go with the in house repair (expertise/experience/knowledge). My composite transom with shipping was around $1,180. Dealer spent 22 hours on the repair. The repair quotes that I recieved went from $3,600 to $4,100. If I recall correctly, the wood transom board was $300 to $400 less.
Anybody compare the cost of Seacast vs. composite or wood? Seems like Seacast would be easier for the DIY’er, and perhaps the better core material option.

For those of us with the original, unknown quality wood core transom, I suggest that winter storage conditions may help avoid rot. Storing in a garage with a little heat dries the air considerably. I store unheated at high elevation which dries things relatively quickly. The aluminum/fiberglass skin seals moisture in wet wood cores but the wood is not perfectly sealed. For example, the low edge of my wood core is visible in my bilge. Also, there is probably some slight air migration around the sides and under the cap of the wood core. It’s like green cut wood they say it will dry at a rate of one month per 1” diameter of a tree. Similarly, I suggest that wood cores will dry out very, very slowly in storage conditions that are conducive to evaporation....At least I hope so. That, and sealing the cap, mounting holes and scuppers, and keeping the bilge as dry as possible during the boating season, may avert dreaded transom rot.

Last edited by DW; 08-28-2019 at 08:47 AM.
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  #35  
Old 08-28-2019, 09:29 AM
ltrain ltrain is online now
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Quote:
Anybody compare the cost of Seacast vs. composite or wood? Seems like Seacast would be easier for the DIY’er, and perhaps the better core material option.
My Seacast transom was about 800 more than the repair quotes shotgun recieved.
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  #36  
Old 08-28-2019, 12:08 PM
bersh bersh is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HodakaD View Post
The nice lady at Lund corporate I talked to said that the estimated time for the repair would be 32 hours. Their shop rate is $120/hour. I questioned the 32 hour estimate, and she said that was a generic time estimate based on a boat the size of mine. I thought it seemed high based on the fact that I have corner caps where the transom and gunnel intersect and there would be no grinding, welding, and repainting involved. I appreciate all the responses.

I have a thread on my Crestliner transom replacement. 32 hours is probably pretty close for a dealer to do it. I had considerably more than that into mine, but I was figuring stuff out as I went.


It's not an easy job, and is very time consuming. I was quoted locally "between $2,500 and $3,500, maybe more - won't know until I'm done" so I decided to do it on my own. I ended up spending about $550 on marine plywood, west systems epoxy, misc supplies, and motor lifting eye from Amazon. I had about 45-50 hours into it when it was all said and done.
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  #37  
Old 08-28-2019, 01:06 PM
Mrroo Mrroo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HodakaD View Post
I've talked to a couple of dealerships and finally got the cost of the composite replacement transom board. One dealership quoted $1200, the second dealership quoted $1440 plus $150 shipping. I decided to call Lund directly, and they told me $1200. As of right now I'm leaning towards having Lund replace the board in house at New York Mills. Any thoughts on this?


After going back and forth with Lund on a precut board, they gave me a price of $800 just for the composite board. This was for a Tyee Grandsport.


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  #38  
Old 08-28-2019, 01:18 PM
Mrroo Mrroo is offline
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Originally Posted by jamicra View Post
Hey Mrroo, I have the time and place, but no idea how to go about replacing mine. I did a little investigating and discovered that my transom is somewhat bad. Gonna have to fix it this winter, but have no idea where or how to start. Could you let me know what is involved and where to start?

Thanks

Mike


Gotta start by getting the motor off. Need a engine hoist. Depending on the type of boat you have, the whole livewell/splash well needs to come out. This is all riveted in. This was the hardest part as it’s heavy and awkward. On my Tyee, the gunwale covers the transom board. So the top caps had to be cut off. Once you get everything out of the way you can start digging out all the foam that surrounds the transom through bolts. Getting the livewell hoses disconnected is also tight. I went above and beyond what most would do. I completely stripped/primed and painted everything while it was apart. You can search for my thread I posted all the pics and progress on. I can’t link it for some reason right now.


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  #39  
Old 08-28-2019, 01:19 PM
Mrroo Mrroo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shotgun View Post
My corners had to be cut off for replacement. The dealer had two very nice stainless steel corner castings made by a shop, polished them up to look like chrome and installed. Probably saved him some hours as no painting and welding on his part. Good luck.

I had to cut mine
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  #40  
Old 08-28-2019, 01:25 PM
Mrroo Mrroo is offline
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My Lund transom journey
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...0&share_type=t

See if this works


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