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Lund 1975 Pro V 225 Pro XS prop - Walleye Message Central
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  #1  
Old 09-23-2019, 07:43 PM
JohnWF JohnWF is offline
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Default Lund 1975 Pro V 225 Pro XS prop

What prop are you folks running on the 1975 Pro V with 225 Pro XS?
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  #2  
Old 09-25-2019, 08:15 AM
benltr benltr is offline
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Hi John i guess factory setup is Tempest 19P.

I have a Lund Tyee 2075 with the 250 PRO XS and i had also the Tempest 19P as a factory setup.

The prop was not bad at all performance wise but i prefer the Bravo LT. I am now running a 21P Bravo LT modified by Mark Croxton and my motor is 1 hole higher than factory.

Running 58-60 mph at 6000-6100 rpm.

What about your setup right now? (mph, rpm, motor height, kicker or not, electric motor, etc)?
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  #3  
Old 09-25-2019, 02:08 PM
JohnWF JohnWF is offline
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Don't have it yet. Will be purchasing the boat in the next day. Currently have a 2008 1900 Pro V, 200 Honda and 18 pitch Rev 4. With the kicker, extra batteries and all the other stuff, its a fairly heavy package and the new boat will be similarly rigged.

The pro XS is about 100 lbs. lighter and has so much more zip than the Honda that I'm thinking it will pull a higher pitch prop, like a 20 Rev 4.
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  #4  
Old 09-25-2019, 02:15 PM
benltr benltr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnWF View Post
Don't have it yet. Will be purchasing the boat in the next day. Currently have a 2008 1900 Pro V, 200 Honda and 18 pitch Rev 4. With the kicker, extra batteries and all the other stuff, its a fairly heavy package and the new boat will be similarly rigged.

The pro XS is about 100 lbs. lighter and has so much more zip than the Honda that I'm thinking it will pull a higher pitch prop, like a 20 Rev 4.
I tried a Rev 4 19P on mine. I can bounce the rev limiter 6200 with it so yeah i would run a 20P on mine.
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Old 09-25-2019, 05:09 PM
John Gildersleeve John Gildersleeve is offline
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Try a bravo 1 fs before the LT. The new motor is way quicker out of the hole so no reason for the extra stern lift the LT creates. You can plug the vents too. I run a 2075 with a 300 pro xs. If you are running a tempast add one degree of pitch. Motor height can be set at 2.25 in from bottom of hull to plate on motor. If need to raise the motor every hole will get you around 150 rpm more. So lets say your on the 3rd hole now and running a 19 tempast at 6200 rpms. If you get a 21 bravo 1 fs and raise the motor to the 4th hole you should be at 6000 rpms. These new v8 pro xs run there best at 6000 rpms. This information I am saying comes from Mercury Racing. When going from a tempast to bravo 1 fs add one degree pitch.
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  #6  
Old 09-25-2019, 06:08 PM
benltr benltr is offline
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Default Lund 1975 Pro V 225 Pro XS prop

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Gildersleeve View Post
Try a bravo 1 fs before the LT. The new motor is way quicker out of the hole so no reason for the extra stern lift the LT creates. You can plug the vents too. I run a 2075 with a 300 pro xs. If you are running a tempast add one degree of pitch. Motor height can be set at 2.25 in from bottom of hull to plate on motor. If need to raise the motor every hole will get you around 150 rpm more. So lets say your on the 3rd hole now and running a 19 tempast at 6200 rpms. If you get a 21 bravo 1 fs and raise the motor to the 4th hole you should be at 6000 rpms. These new v8 pro xs run there best at 6000 rpms. This information I am saying comes from Mercury Racing. When going from a tempast to bravo 1 fs add one degree pitch.


The info your giving is good but one thing I disagree is I did try the FS on my boat also and the LT just beat it. Less bow rise at hole shot, better Holeshot, lower planing speed, lift the whole boat so better in rough condition and no performance loss vs the FS. I would also rather have a Rev4 than the FS honestly.


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  #7  
Old 09-25-2019, 08:28 PM
John Gildersleeve John Gildersleeve is offline
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Understand but my hull needs no extra lift it runs plenty high the way it is. The lts were designed to add more stern lift, hence the longer barrel with the flaired end, which aids a heavier boat during take off. The fs is designed for the lighter boat that does not need as much stern lift and still plains out fast. Of course every hull is different. Put a straight edge on the bottom and that will tell you alot on how the hull will react. So if you have any bit of a hook in your hull I could see how the lt would get you more lift and possibly increase your speed. The merc boys will tell you straight out the fs is built for higher speeds. You said you have the 225 pro xs correct? Does the motor have the tourque master gear case? It should. What is the measured distance between the ventilation plate and the bottom of the boat? Are you at the 2.25 inch area? Just curious.
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Old 09-26-2019, 06:23 AM
benltr benltr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Gildersleeve View Post
Understand but my hull needs no extra lift it runs plenty high the way it is. The lts were designed to add more stern lift, hence the longer barrel with the flaired end, which aids a heavier boat during take off. The fs is designed for the lighter boat that does not need as much stern lift and still plains out fast. Of course every hull is different. Put a straight edge on the bottom and that will tell you alot on how the hull will react. So if you have any bit of a hook in your hull I could see how the lt would get you more lift and possibly increase your speed. The merc boys will tell you straight out the fs is built for higher speeds. You said you have the 225 pro xs correct? Does the motor have the tourque master gear case? It should. What is the measured distance between the ventilation plate and the bottom of the boat? Are you at the 2.25 inch area? Just curious.


Mine is 250 Pro XS on the 2075 Tyee Magnum which is basically the same Hull as the 2075 Pro V.

From factory I was already at over 2 inch but I raised the motor 1 hole and I am about at 2.75 right now.

I’ve talked alot with Scott Reichow at Mercury Racing and he wasn’t surprised that the LT was the best performer. And trust me I did tried Tempest, Rev4, LT, FS same day same condition with an Excel spreadsheet and calculates everything. LT was the winner. I also do not have a kicker but I have a 112 ulterra upfront with 3 batteries.

The 25 inch Pro Xs 250 comes with the 5.44 HD gear case (grey) with the 1.75 gear ratio.

I am pretty sure the bottom of my boat is straight since those piece are CNC cutted and riveted. If it was welded like my last Crestliner Authority than yes maybe there would be more possibilities of having differents hull from customer to customer.


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  #9  
Old 09-26-2019, 10:48 AM
John Gildersleeve John Gildersleeve is offline
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I rigged boats for many years, which mainly was Lund, and trust me the hulls are not allways built the same. A simple depression can cause serious effects on a hull. Well at least you found something that works. Which is good. Just trying to help out.
Curious as to where the the water spray is at wide open throttle. Is at the back towards the middle towards the front?

Last edited by John Gildersleeve; 09-26-2019 at 11:07 AM.
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  #10  
Old 09-26-2019, 10:53 AM
benltr benltr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Gildersleeve View Post
I rigged boats for many years, which mainly was Lund, and trust me the hulls are not allways built the same. A simple depression can cause serious effects effects on a hull. Well at least you found something that works. Which is good. Just trying to help out.
John that's 100% true but i'm pretty sure Lund have less margin for that than a welded hull and that's what i wanted to tell.

Also not all prop are created equal... Bravo's are known to be off sometimes and that's why i sent mine to Croxton... I gained some RPM and it is blueprinted now so i am sure it is performing the way it should.

You gave very good info and i wasn't trying to be an *** but only tell my experience so far on similar hull & motor.

One thing for sure those Bravo's are really good versus a Tempest when properly setup.
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