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blowing fuses problem with trailer turn signal and brake lights - Page 3 - Walleye Message Central
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  #21  
Old 06-07-2020, 01:07 PM
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bvogelzang2002 bvogelzang2002 is offline
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Here's what I've done so far without success. Cleaned the plugin leads on the Tahoe and the trailer, pulled the taillight from the back of the trailer to look for shorts in the wiring or water in the light itself, looked at all the possible pinch points including the swing away trailer hinge, took the rig down the road with a new fuse with my wife following to see what happens, pulled what little hair I have left, out.

I din't find any shorts, although I didn't think of a short between the light and the frame. Here's what I found so far. No obvious bare wires. I did discover a lot of extra wire jammed into the frame behind the taillight ala, Bill Krejca post. I didn't pull it all out because I wasn't sure if that would lead to more issues. maybe I will do that today.

When I took it on the road I only had to go about 50 yards before I hit a small bump and the light went out. It came back on for another 50 yards and then went out due to what I suspect is another burned fuse. End of story so far. I'm about ready to have the whole trailer rewired by someone who knows what they're doing and using REW's idea about the tin wire and waterproofing the connections with shrink wrap connectors and putting it all in a flexible protective tube tube in the frame. Anybody have any thoughts with this new info?

No pictures because I don't know how to attach them to a post yet.
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  #22  
Old 06-07-2020, 02:07 PM
Hot Runr Guy Hot Runr Guy is offline
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It sounds like you've reached the end of your comfort level, since you haven't replaced the yellow left turn/brake wire yet from the plug to the light.

Having the trailer re-wired with tinned wire is a great idea, as well as using a plastic conduit to add additional protection. If your tow vehicle uses the round 7-pin connector, making a new harness is easy, since the wires can be connected directly to the plug, rather than spliced onto a flat-4/5 connector.

HRG
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  #23  
Old 06-07-2020, 02:21 PM
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WallyWarrior WallyWarrior is offline
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Did you end up looking on the backside of the marker lights on the side of the trailer? They pop off with a standard screwdriver usually. If one of them is loose, when you hit a bump the wire touches the the frame and shorts out your fuse. It is very easy to check these usually. Look on bottom side of marker lights and a lot of times there is a small slot to insert screwdriver.


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  #24  
Old 06-07-2020, 02:21 PM
Huntindave Huntindave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Runr Guy View Post
It sounds like you've reached the end of your comfort level, since you haven't replaced the yellow left turn/brake wire yet from the plug to the light.

Having the trailer re-wired with tinned wire is a great idea, as well as using a plastic conduit to add additional protection. If your tow vehicle uses the round 7-pin connector, making a new harness is easy, since the wires can be connected directly to the plug, rather than spliced onto a flat-4/5 connector.

HRG
X2,, I concur.
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  #25  
Old 06-07-2020, 06:44 PM
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bvogelzang2002 bvogelzang2002 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Runr Guy View Post
It sounds like you've reached the end of your comfort level, since you haven't replaced the yellow left turn/brake wire yet from the plug to the light.

Having the trailer re-wired with tinned wire is a great idea, as well as using a plastic conduit to add additional protection. If your tow vehicle uses the round 7-pin connector, making a new harness is easy, since the wires can be connected directly to the plug, rather than spliced onto a flat-4/5 connector.

HRG
Yea, you're right about that. At 73 I don't want to be on my back on a concrete floor trying to figure out how to do this. I'd be glad to pay someone to do as long as they do it right. The problem is that most guys working at marinas or shops don't know any more than I do. I'd like to find someone around here, Grand Rapids MI, who would do it and let me watch and learn and provide refreshments. I need a Mac Gyver.

I'll keep working at it until I get it done right and have a bulletproof wiring system in that trailer.

Thanks for all the advice and encouragement. It all helps.
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  #26  
Old 06-08-2020, 12:38 AM
REW REW is offline
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BV,
You can go to any place that installs hitches on vehicles and they will take care of your wring issue.

These folks take care of wiring problems every day and should be able to provide help in a hurry.

Call your local U - haul dealer. If they have some free time they will often take care of a trailer.

Around here we have places like Handy Hitch and similar locations that are a whiz with vehicle and trailer wiring issues.

take care
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  #27  
Old 06-08-2020, 07:10 AM
Nick Kanauz Nick Kanauz is offline
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Cool Trailer Wiring....

bvogelzang2002....message me. Where in GR are you located. HRG is my Brother and he knows what he's doing. He has taught me well. Maybe I can help.
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  #28  
Old 06-08-2020, 02:32 PM
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Jimmy Jig Jimmy Jig is offline
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I have had the same problem with trailer wiring. For one thing, forget the fender lights they are powered by the brown wire. The yellow wire is only for the brake/turn signal.
That yellow wire has a bare spot where the insulation has worn though rubbing on the inside of the frame. Another problem is its much easier to get the fuse blown after the trailer is wet from loading and unloading. I bought a new wiring harness from ShoreLandr for the left side and tied calk line on all wires and pulling the wiring out and pulled the new in. It takes two to do it and its not easy.....You might get a single wire pulled in, no matter the color and get by. Its usually the brown wire that is shot so that,s the next thing to look forward to.. Remember the brown, yellow, white are together, not single wires....Good Luck
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  #29  
Old 06-08-2020, 03:30 PM
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WallyWarrior WallyWarrior is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy Jig View Post
I have had the same problem with trailer wiring. For one thing, forget the fender lights they are powered by the brown wire. The yellow wire is only for the brake/turn signal.
That yellow wire has a bare spot where the insulation has worn though rubbing on the inside of the frame. Another problem is its much easier to get the fuse blown after the trailer is wet from loading and unloading. I bought a new wiring harness from ShoreLandr for the left side and tied calk line on all wires and pulling the wiring out and pulled the new in. It takes two to do it and its not easy.....You might get a single wire pulled in, no matter the color and get by. Its usually the brown wire that is shot so that,s the next thing to look forward to.. Remember the brown, yellow, white are together, not single wires....Good Luck

If it is blowing a fuse it could be any of the wires shorting out. That is why I suggested the marker lights. Of course the tail light and blinker will not work if the fuse is blown. I’ve seen it 3 different times in shorelander trailers.

Do the marker lights stay on when the fuse blows in this situation? That would be an entirely different ball game.


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  #30  
Old 06-08-2020, 03:51 PM
Huntindave Huntindave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WallyWarrior View Post
If it is blowing a fuse it could be any of the wires shorting out. That is why I suggested the marker lights. Of course the tail light and blinker will not work if the fuse is blown. I’ve seen it 3 different times in shorelander trailers.

Do the marker lights stay on when the fuse blows in this situation? That would be an entirely different ball game.


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?????????????? (A) Please reread the original post. (B) the tail light and the blinker light are separate circuits with separate fuses. A short in the taillight circuit will not blow the fuse for the blinker light circuit. A blown fuse in the blinker circuit will have no effect on the taillight circuit and vice versa.
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