Let's see your electronics install

[Thalweg]

John,

Thanks. So far I really like the adjustability and sturdiness of the Blue Water mounts. The cable mounts are just stick on indoor/outdoor zip tie mounts (1 inch squares). I have used them before with good success. Historically I have had to replace them every 3 years or so but it is an easy task.

[jbird68]

Originally Posted by fishsammich

Here’s my competitor 165CS

Did you have to run new wires for the power anchor?

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

[fishsammich]

Yes. I ran 8 gauge all the way back to the starting battery. No inline fuse since the anchor had a built in circuit breaker. Tried it yesterday for the first time and it works great! Very happy I put it on. Still have to run the remote dash switch from the unit to the console but I can just use the switch on the back of the unit up front in the mean time.

Originally Posted by jbird68

Did you have to run new wires for the power anchor?

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

[Wiscowalleye]

So I want to mount a second helix 9 on the counsel of my 2020 Lund 1775 impact. Any recommendations. So far I was thinking of two ram swing arm mounts with the bases next to each other and arms swung out. Here is a photo of what I currently have. Just a helix 9 direct mounted to the console. How sturdy are the ram swing arms? I don’t want anything that will move on me in rough water. I won’t use regular ram mounts every one I’ve ever owned moved on me in rough water.

[Wiscowalleye]

Went with 2 ballzout mounts with the 4” arm. Just enough room for two helix 9s. Took some time finding the correct placement since the mounts move 30 degrees at a time but I’m really happy with how solid the shorter arms are and how nice everything fits behind the windshield. I probably wouldn’t go with the longer arm if I were to do it over. That being said it would be a lot easier to mount everything with a longer arm. A few things to note. You will need an angle drill with a stubby drill bit. Also I bolted through an additional piece of composite decking I had laying around to beef up the fiberglass and metal underneath. As you get towards the edges of the counsel it’s just plastic and fiberglass no metal.

[B-Ice]

Ranger Angler 2080 with HDS Live 12 at the counsel and HDS Live 9 at the bow. I searched for a while to find any pics of these flush mounted with limited success, so sharing in case others are interested. Screen glare on the 9 in the bow - there isn't a line in the screen .

[SDeadeye]

A month or so ago I finished up installing a trolling motor and graphs in an old '85 Tyee 5.5 that I've been working on. Helix 10 Mega SI G4N on the dash, Helix 7 Mega DI G3N up front, Terrova 60"/80# iPilot Link, all hooked to the ethernet switch under the dash. The SI and 2d high speed transducers on the transom are connected to the 10 and the DI on the trolling motor is connected to the 7. The SI is shared up to the bow unit.

I must have lucked out, my trolling motor came with both the full iPilot Link remote and the heading sensor. It sounds like the wasn't the case for a lot of people lately. I also added the GPS & Heading sensor puck and connected it to the Helix 10.

There wasn't a ton of room for batteries, but I was able to fit a pair of group 27 Napa batteries in the storage area in the bow. I also put the Noco 3 bank charger under the lid. TM is connected with a Minnkota plug and Minnkota circuit breaker. I ran 6 gauge wire for the short section I needed to extend from the TM batteries to the cables on the receptacle. So far the longest I've run the trolling motor is about 4 hours between speeds 3 and 6, and the batteries weren't even down to 75% when I plugged it in that night.

I also added a group 24 battery in the back to run the electronics. It goes to a battery shutoff switch then a blue seas fuse block. I 3D printed a mount to put the switch behind the trim panel to keep it looking clean.

Overall it was a bit of a pain just running wires in a boat that wasn't designed for a bunch of electronics back in the day, but a stubby Milwaukee M12 right angle drill really saved the day quite a few times.

[Wiscowalleye]

Originally Posted by SDeadeye

A month or so ago I finished up installing a trolling motor and graphs in an old '85 Tyee 5.5 that I've been working on. Helix 10 Mega SI G4N on the dash, Helix 7 Mega DI G3N up front, Terrova 60"/80# iPilot Link, all hooked to the ethernet switch under the dash. The SI and 2d high speed transducers on the transom are connected to the 10 and the DI on the trolling motor is connected to the 7. The SI is shared up to the bow unit.

I must have lucked out, my trolling motor came with both the full iPilot Link remote and the heading sensor. It sounds like the wasn't the case for a lot of people lately. I also added the GPS & Heading sensor puck and connected it to the Helix 10.

There wasn't a ton of room for batteries, but I was able to fit a pair of group 27 Napa batteries in the storage area in the bow. I also put the Noco 3 bank charger under the lid. TM is connected with a Minnkota plug and Minnkota circuit breaker. I ran 6 gauge wire for the short section I needed to extend from the TM batteries to the cables on the receptacle. So far the longest I've run the trolling motor is about 4 hours between speeds 3 and 6, and the batteries weren't even down to 75% when I plugged it in that night.

I also added a group 24 battery in the back to run the electronics. It goes to a battery shutoff switch then a blue seas fuse block. I 3D printed a mount to put the switch behind the trim panel to keep it looking clean.

Overall it was a bit of a pain just running wires in a boat that wasn't designed for a bunch of electronics back in the day, but a stubby Milwaukee M12 right angle drill really saved the day quite a few times.

Looks very nice! Good work and very clean install. I have that same drill totally needed it especially to drill the holes on the dash with the windshield in the way.

[FinmanPoozie]

3 Helix G3s, all networked on 2 cascaded OneBoat networks. 1 is a CHO, so it moves from the bow to cockpit depending on the day.

The boat's wired for 4 Helix with 3 being used all the time. The 4th will reach the rear corner for the boat for any vertical jigging on the starboard side.

They're all mounted on TraxsTec double knuckle mounts on their tracks & no holes drilled. Downriggers are a pair Scotty electrics (not quite fitting in the op's question of "electronics" though).

112# Ultrex, iPilot & MSI. The console is mounted to a MSI transducer on the transom. Combining both, I can scissor back & forth over drops & humps with a 21' gap between transducers.

Both Talons are connected to all 3 + the iPilot remote via Bluetooth.

With some custom work I got 2 Talons installed. The 9.9, 2 Talons & the boarding ladder are all functional without removing anything. 10' Talons don't interfere with casting, but 12' would and 12' would not clear the bridge in the pic!

A Mega 360 is mid-install now.

What's not seen is the power behind it all: Hot & ground bus bars are installed in the transom & bow (6 ga wire ran to the back), 3 Perko battery switches with 2 AGMs. 1 battery switch isolates which the 9.9 charges, 1 does the same for the 300. The 3rd decides which battery to draw from for the entire boat except the automatic bilge. All 3 battery switches have a 1-both-2 option & have connect-then-disconnect to prevent any backfeeds to the motors when batteries need to be changed to. Adding anything new from the console to the bow gets wired to the bow bus bars instead of using packed tubes to the rear.

MinnKota Precision 10a 2 bank in the transom. Minnkota Precision 15a, 3 bank for the bow trolling motor batteries to charge & maintain all 5 batteries.

Happy Fishing!!

[Ltrain]

Nice job FinmanPoozie, well thought out. Really like the use of the tracks. Looks like a great fishing rig.