2014 ETEC 150 EMM overheat only at WOT

[Bobby Winds]

I would consider a engine interface cable to your depth finder via NIEMA backbone to monitor your temps.......MAYBE a bad temp sensor.

[thump55]

Originally Posted by Bobby Winds

I would consider a engine interface cable to your depth finder via NIEMA backbone to monitor your temps.......MAYBE a bad temp sensor.

I didn't even know there was such a cable. I will check it out.


Seahorse- I didn't realize I had to crack the whole motor casing to get at the VST. I didn't have time to get into that last night, but I will try and do it tonight.

They sure don't make the flow any easier with all the sharp bends in that EMM cooling hose.

[seahorse]

Originally Posted by thump55

No, the motor does not slow down, but I idle down and shut the motor off right away. I can start it right back up and the alarm is gone.

I know it is an EMM overheat from the codes I had read at my shop last fall. He said it is often a transducer aerating the water. I was able to raise my transducer 5/16" and it seemed to solve the problem then, but I think really it was the lake water temps cooling off.

I can check the hoses as you mentioned, but I can't do the water pressure.

Thanks for the help.

An EMM overheat will rapidly slow the motor down to 1200 rpm, and from your description it does not sound like that. Plus when they overheat it does take a bit of time for the internal parts too down enough to allow the engine to run normally again.

You can run a length of clear hose from the EMM water inlet fitting and the engine. That way you can check for air bubbles and/or aeration when you are running at all speeds.

Have a tech run an engine printout for you to see exactly what the current error codes are for. Right now you are only playing a guessing game.

For troubleshooting, it is easy to temporarily hook up a water pressure gauge to the engine block.

[thump55]

Originally Posted by seahorse

An EMM overheat will rapidly slow the motor down to 1200 rpm, and from your description it does not sound like that. Plus when they overheat it does take a bit of time for the internal parts too down enough to allow the engine to run normally again.

You can run a length of clear hose from the EMM water inlet fitting and the engine. That way you can check for air bubbles and/or aeration when you are running at all speeds.

Have a tech run an engine printout for you to see exactly what the current error codes are for. Right now you are only playing a guessing game.

For troubleshooting, it is easy to temporarily hook up a water pressure gauge to the engine block.

Thanks for the info. I thought that it was a little weird that it would fire right back up and not alarming.

Do you think changing the PRV/spring would make a difference at WOT?

[Mike D]

yes, the PRV would be the first thing I would do and permanently solved the intermittent issue for me.

[thump55]

I like to do stuff myself, but I have reached the point where I think it is better to take it in. The shop I use is very capable and I have no doubt can fix this. They will get it in soon and I will report back with any results.

Thanks for the input...I have some idea of questions to ask now and things to look for.

[seahorse]

Originally Posted by thump55

I like to do stuff myself, but I have reached the point where I think it is better to take it in. The shop I use is very capable and I have no doubt can fix this. They will get it in soon and I will report back with any results.

Thanks for the input...I have some idea of questions to ask now and things to look for.

Be sure to ask them for an engine history printout for your records and reference.

[thump55]

Shop tested the motor, put in clear hoses to EMM and had good visual (no bubbles) but temp was still high when run connected to computer.

Changed PRV (not sure if they just swapped or reduced to lower pressure spring)

They tested and said temps were better.

I have yet to test myself, but I'm sure it is good to go, so the PRV guys had it right.

[Mike D]

Glad it worked out