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  #11  
Old 09-05-2008, 06:52 AM
The Real Mccoy The Real Mccoy is offline
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Not with the black caps. The clear caps let you see the oil level at a glance.
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  #12  
Old 09-05-2008, 07:15 AM
2Labs 2Labs is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Real Mccoy View Post
Not with the black caps. The clear caps let you see the oil level at a glance.

OK. My error. I READ INTO your posts that you had been switched over to the black caps and were not happy in light of having actually seen missing oil through your old clear caps. That explains it. Thanks.

I will stick with my flow-through hubs. If I ever do replace them with oil bath hubs I will make sure the caps are the clear and not black. You are right ... what a dumb move that was for the manufacturer!!! I wonder if they felt the clear caps were deteriorating due to sunlight exposure and the black caps are made of sunlight-resistant materials. That would be the only thing that would make sense. Otherwise they are giving up one of the big features of oil bath hubs when the customer can't even see if the hubs are filled with oil!!!
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  #13  
Old 09-05-2008, 03:43 PM
went522 went522 is offline
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Originally Posted by 2Labs View Post
what a dumb move that was for the manufacturer!!! I wonder if they felt the clear caps were deteriorating due to sunlight exposure and the black caps are made of sunlight-resistant materials. That would be the only thing that would make sense. Otherwise they are giving up one of the big features of oil bath hubs when the customer can't even see if the hubs are filled with oil!!!
It's all about the almighty dollar!!$$$$$

Clear caps weren't degrading due to sunlight...ever see a tractor trailer with black caps, they see more sun than anybody. They are all clear.

The reason they went to the black caps is so that we the consumer can NOT see the oil, for reasons I stated above. Out of site, out of mind. When you can see the oil and it's milky grey all the time your going to get warranty replacements, that costs the manufacturer money. How do they fix it...turn the cap black so you can't see there is a potential issue. Right, it's a dumb move as far as the consumer is concerned...terribly stupid! But to the manufacturer it's smart, saves money because they are doing less warranty replacements.

Take a warm hub and immerse in cold water day in day out. You will get water intrusion, be it condensation or water sneaking past the seal. Impossible to prevent, at least on this style hub. But, they say that the condensation in normal, just change the fluid once a year.

Same can be said for the grease hubs as well...they certainly take water in. The difference is that with the grease hubs, when they warm back up the moisture will evaporate and has a path out.

I'm fine with the cool hubs, just like I used to be fine with the grease hubs. If I had grease hubs I wouldn't be changing them to oil, especially not black covered hubs. The key to both style hubs is maintenence...if you keep with that, they will both last a long time.

BIRDDOG
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  #14  
Old 09-05-2008, 08:06 PM
Burr Burr is offline
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I read these potential horror stories about oil hubs, and kind of shrug my shoulders. I haven't had oil hubs on my boat trailer for long, or many miles, but I never will have oil hubs on my boat trailer for many miles if I have them for the rest of my life.

On the other hand, I have had them on semi tractor trailer combinations for years, and hundreds of thousands of miles. Changing oil in those hubs is NEVER part of a preventive maintenance program. It gets changed when the hub has to be pulled for whatever reason, usually brakes, bushings, or seal failure. They don't get hot, so they don't mysteriously take in water. They really are a permanent solution, as long as your seal is good. To know if your seal is good, simply watch for oil splatter both outside in inside your wheel. It will tell you if it's leaking.

Personal experience on just how durable oil bath hubs are - - I have always watched for oil splatter on this one particular trailer I inherited from someone else. After pulling the trailer for well over a hundred thousand miles, I pulled the plugs to inspect oil levels. One of the wheels did not have oil detectable from the fill port. I pulled the hub, and there was no more than a table spoon of oil in the very bottom of the hub. The bearings were fine, the wheel was never hot, there was no bearing wear at all. It never broke down on the road. It only takes a very small amount of oil in the oil bath to lube the bearings effectively. Oil bath hubs are really maintenance free. There is no reason to change oil in them, none. It is a method that works.

So, I'll watch mine, but I kind of anticipate the doom and gloom of water infiltration and lack of lubrication, and bearing corrosion is something I will not have an issue with.

When someone gives my a piece of chocolate, I just say "mmmmm, chocolate".

Take it for what it is, a good method of taking care of your bearings and axles.
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  #15  
Old 09-05-2008, 08:27 PM
I Fish GS I Fish GS is offline
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Default how to add oil

How do you add oil to ranger hubs. I drive big trucks for living they have rubber cap in center hub covers to add oil.

Brian
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  #16  
Old 09-05-2008, 11:03 PM
went522 went522 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burr View Post
Oil bath hubs are really maintenance free. There is no reason to change oil in them, none..
This may be true for OTR trailers, but the manufacturers of boat trailer hubs recommend changing the oil yearly as preventative maintenence. The reason...condensation.

Here's the FAQ's page from Liqualube..."I fish GS", it explains how to add, change the oil.
http://www.liqualube.com/liqualube%20website/faq.htm

BIRDDOG
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