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  #31  
Old 07-14-2019, 04:34 AM
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CI_Guy CI_Guy is online now
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I have no financial intrest in either wedge or bar savers. When properly used bar savers will do the job they're supposed to do. And I'll stop using the word that seems to be bothering you so much DW, but you can't strap your boat down so tight with nylon straps that it doesn't move up and down and back and forth on the trailer as you drive down the road hitting bumps large and small. I'm not talking multiple inches but it will move.
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  #32  
Old 07-14-2019, 11:27 AM
rpr rpr is offline
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I’m not really sure what side of the fence I fall on here. I don’t think it’s a black or white issue, I would say bar savers/wedges both help but IMHO I would prefer a wedge on my motor as I (arguably) do not believe a boat sitting on a trailer can behave perfectly as one rigid structure. The truth of the matter though is that neither may be imperative for today’s boats. It’s my understanding that most if not all major boat manufacturers ship new boats with no bar savers or wedges for the outboards, regardless of size, and they just use the built in supports if so equipped.

I was kind of surprised to learn this. My new rig was delivered by Triton on a trailer with no bar saver or wedge supporting the 300HP Verado. Triton doesn’t even list a bar saver or wedge as an available option. I would think some amount of study has gone into this from the boat manufacturers, and apparently they see little risk in this.

Nonetheless, I would like the added insurance of having a wedge on my motor, but there’s only only one manufacturer out there that makes a wedge for this new V8 Verado, and they’re out of stock...

So I guess I’ll be ordering a long bar saver but I’m not really convinced it’s the right tool for this heavy Verado.
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  #33  
Old 07-14-2019, 12:13 PM
DW DW is online now
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...and they just use the built in supports if so equipped.

For the most part, the built in motor supports are not authorized to support the motor. This topic keeps coming up so I checked owners manuals for all the outboard manufacturers and all of them except one prohibit trailering with the outboard supported by the internal mechanism. ALL but that one recommend a bar type saver and include a diagram in the manual so it is perfectly clear. I recommend you read your motor manual, your boat manual and your boat warranty. For those who are the fence, what better direction can you expect to get than the warnings and recommendations of the manufacturers?
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  #34  
Old 07-14-2019, 01:14 PM
Kevin23 Kevin23 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TackleJunky View Post
The transom is not a lifetime warranty?



That would suck as I too am using the M-Y wedge per my longtime Lund dealer.



Way easier than an old style transom saver; but I did always use a transom saver until this new boat.



Rick
No, transom is not in the hull warranty. Its in the exclusions, you need to contact your dealer to ask about the transom in the warranty and he/she will run you around and say how great the craftsmanship is and they rarely ever see one fail and all the typical BS instead of saying "its not included". https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...995ffc3d9a.jpg
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  #35  
Old 07-14-2019, 01:39 PM
rpr rpr is offline
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From the manual for the V8 Verado:
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  #36  
Old 07-17-2019, 11:58 AM
Woollybob Woollybob is offline
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First clip below is from the Verado 6-cyl manual (from 2018), up to 350 HP. States you can use the support bracket for this engine for trailering (as far as the outboard is concerned). I know not all brands are like this - My Yamaha bracket was not designed for anything other than support for service work.

Second clip below is from the 2018 Ranger manual, page 2. My dealer told me not to use a transom saver and just use the engine's support bracket. They also stated I could use something like the 'wedge' and they sell them. Many others have stated this is what they do and I have not come across anyone with a newer ranger that has had a transom problem with the support lever - The school of thought is that they are built to handle the loads from trailering. Having said that, the Ranger manual recommendation below contradicts my dealer's advice. Note that the Ranger manual uses the phrase "recommend" - There are no 'must' statements or mention of a requirement in the 10-year hull warranty (includes transom).

At any rate, the tilt support bracket or wedge type devices do NOTHING to take load off the transom. They can take load off the hydraulic tilt/trim or other parts of the engine-mount assembly, but you are not introducing any external support outside that system that would remove any of the load that the mount is transferring to the transom.

Only an external support - like a transom saver bar - can reduce the load on the transom. But, there is the possibility of movement between trailer frame and boat that can transmit load to the lower unit - My former roller trailer created a lot of boat bounce because the rollers were on cantilevered bars that acted like leaf springs. Solid bunk trailers are pretty rigid though.

Having said all that, I'm not that convinced of which is the lesser or greater risk to consider. I believe the correct answer would be: It depends... Wood, aluminum, or glass/composite transom? Trailer type? Outboard model? For my situation, I certainly like the idea of not having to mess with a transom saver bar - paint missing from the lower unit, replacing rubber... But also recognize its hard to ignore the manual recommendation (especially if you should ever need to use the hull warranty).
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  #37  
Old 07-18-2019, 09:17 AM
Ches Ches is offline
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I have used the bar type transom saver on all my boats. My last few hooked onto the back center roller. My current boat trailer only has a skid plate at the rear center to the bar attaches via a plate under the center rear bar of the trailer. I do use those clips that attach to both sides of the steering control rods. Those keep the engine from tilting left or right when going down the road. First boat with them but I like them a lot. One tip, get the rubber ones with handles vs the plastic ones. I have had both and the rubber ones are much easier to remove.
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  #38  
Old 07-18-2019, 09:34 AM
bubba800 bubba800 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNmuskyguy View Post
EXACTLY CORRECT! You don't need to "save the transom" while trailering. You put more stress on the transom when running around the lake with a full load in the boat vs when you are hauling it down the road.
Just follow somebody into Canada for three hundred miles and watch a 400# motor bouncing, wrenching and torqueing on the transom and tell us how you don't "need one". It's your transom and you certainly can abuse it as you see fit.
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  #39  
Old 07-18-2019, 01:49 PM
Aspencreek Aspencreek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubba800 View Post
Just follow somebody into Canada for three hundred miles and watch a 400# motor bouncing, wrenching and torqueing on the transom and tell us how you don't "need one". It's your transom and you certainly can abuse it as you see fit.
If you don't have a Bar type support, do yourself a favor, have someone else drive your rig around some country roads and over some railroad tracks and down the interstate and you follow along behind and watch that engine bounce around and try to imagine the torque and ODD stresses it is creating on your metal or fiberglass covered wood transom. I did when my son pulled my last rig up to Canada and I followed. We left Madison and made him pull over at the Scheels in Eau Claire so I could buy one, for the rest of the trip. The peace of mind was well worth double the cost.
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  #40  
Old 07-18-2019, 02:35 PM
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Bobby Winds Bobby Winds is online now
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For Weak transom Lund boats it a good idea to use a transom saver......maybe extend the life of 1 of there rotten transoms. . . . . LOL
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