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  #1  
Old 03-27-2020, 02:40 PM
RichA$1970 RichA$1970 is offline
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Default Mainline for walleye Jigging

Looking for suggestions for what’s a good main line for jigging walleyes around 15-18’ feet in tea stained water.
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  #2  
Old 03-27-2020, 05:15 PM
REW REW is offline
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any line that you like that is in the 6-8 lb range.

It can be mono, braid, or some combination thereof.


For shallow jigging I use only clear mono line. I see no reason to use braid for this fishing and have much better luck using mono for this application compared to braid for main line.

Take carE
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Old 03-27-2020, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REW View Post
any line that you like that is in the 6-8 lb range.

It can be mono, braid, or some combination thereof.


For shallow jigging I use only clear mono line. I see no reason to use braid for this fishing and have much better luck using mono for this application compared to braid for main line.

Take carE
REW, I think it's somewhat known that you love mono.....you know, in this instance, I agree with you in mono as your choice in shallow water....whether vertically or pitching shallow, I definitely like the stretch of mono over braid...but for deeper water, I'll take braid (with a Fluoro or mono leader) over mono. Most of my rods are set up with braid...a couple with mono and a couple with fluoro...so to me, if I only had one rod, I would put mono on it....if I had more than two, I would have most loaded with braid!
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  #4  
Old 03-28-2020, 06:03 AM
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kzoofisher kzoofisher is offline
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You're asking because you've decided to try something new? Hi-vis braid. The increased sensitivity and visibility will have you learning a lot faster. There's a reason that for decades people thought fishing jigs vertically or with anything but bait in shallow water was too tough and not productive enough. That reason was mono. Not even the walleye legends of 30 years ago cast jigs in deep water. Today, anyone can spool up with a no stretch line and get a feel for what the jig is doing in short order.

Spool up with braid and use a short mono leader to your jig. You don't need the mono in tea stained water, it does make changing jigs quicker and easier.

Watch the line like a hawk.

Set the hook anytime the line goes slack before you expect it or feels the least bit "funny" or ticks on something you didn't expect to be there. It'll take a half dozen bites and you'll be like, "Oh, I got this".

If you're fishing bait, tailor you retrieve to imitate what you would expect out of a Lindy rig to start with, but a little closer to the bottom.

Fishing plastic is very different

Pay attention to when you get bit. Right after a missed set and you pulled it up higher or faster, a pause to check the sonar, after the initial drop, when you were late and dragged the bottom a little, when you gave it a double pop; all will tell you something about what the fish want.

Sometimes you'll feel a tick and not be able to hook up, like perch stealing your bait. Give it just the tiniest pause before setting or adjust your retrieve speed up and down to get them to take it better.

Count the jig down to the bottom until you get a good feel for how fast that weight with that bait or plastic falls. This will tell you if you're lifting it a foot or three feet on your retrieve.

Don't use too light a jig. If you're casting plastics the weight of the jig creates action on the fall. Too slow a fall and you get nothing from the bait. In 15' you should start with 1/4 and likely move up, especially with larger plastics that need more speed to keep their tails moving. Live bait moves on its own and lighter jigs are better if you can control them.

Don't fish too slow. Some plastics work best at one speed while another requires a different speed, obviously. Let it fall next to the boat and see how much action you get with a slack, semi-slack and tight line. Different speeds for different baits. You wouldn't pull a crank bait at .5 and you wouldn't pull a harness at 1.8. Often you can start on a spot with a *crankbait* jig and pick off the aggressive fish, then switch to a *harness* jig and get some stragglers.

All of the above is overwhelming if it's a struggle to know what's happening on the business end of the line. Start with braid and it won't be a struggle.
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Old 03-28-2020, 09:03 AM
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Wall-i-Lama Wall-i-Lama is online now
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Fireline or similar, 6lb test.
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Old 03-30-2020, 07:49 AM
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mjayn mjayn is online now
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Jigging...braid period. I see no reason to use mono for jigging. I prefer the no stretch of braid over mono. (if)A tiny bit of stretch is preferred, tie on a 3-6ft leader of mono of Fluoro.

Hook sets, sensitivity, and line drag are better with braid and it takes about 11 minutes to learn not to rip the bait out of the fishes mouth.


I highly doubt anyone has "much better luck" with mono over braid. I just don't see it. Maybe technique on fighting a fish with braid causes some people issues. But actual bites from fish, I don't see a difference. Preferring mono is one thing, but I don't think it has any advantage as far as number of fish that bite.

Fishing 25 years with Mono and now about 20 with braid, applications that mono excels at are few and far between. Leader is one of them.

Try both, fish with the line you PREFER. This thread is proof people can be on the opposite side of the spectrum on even the simplest techniques(jigging).

I also suggest trying braid with a 4ft leader. The best of both words. Better sensitivity, hook sets, and less line drag(use smaller jigs), and get that touch of stretch without fishing with a runner band(mono).
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Old 03-30-2020, 08:58 AM
Meterman Meterman is offline
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We fish stained tea water (LOTW) and I am a big fan of 6 Lb Fireline Crystal braid for all rods except downrigging/snap weights (use 10 Lb mono here to match the depth charts). For jigging we use a St. Croix medium light extra fast Legend Tournament or Elite rod with the 6 Lb. Fireline tied direct to a snap that is then attached to the jig. Works great for us.
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Old 03-30-2020, 09:04 AM
Mojo-NC Mojo-NC is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjayn View Post
Jigging...braid period. I see no reason to use mono for jigging. I prefer the no stretch of braid over mono. (if)A tiny bit of stretch is preferred, tie on a 3-6ft leader of mono of Fluoro.

Hook sets, sensitivity, and line drag are better with braid and it takes about 11 minutes to learn not to rip the bait out of the fishes mouth.


I highly doubt anyone has "much better luck" with mono over braid. I just don't see it. Maybe technique on fighting a fish with braid causes some people issues. But actual bites from fish, I don't see a difference. Preferring mono is one thing, but I don't think it has any advantage as far as number of fish that bite.

Fishing 25 years with Mono and now about 20 with braid, applications that mono excels at are few and far between. Leader is one of them.

Try both, fish with the line you PREFER. This thread is proof people can be on the opposite side of the spectrum on even the simplest techniques(jigging).

I also suggest trying braid with a 4ft leader. The best of both words. Better sensitivity, hook sets, and less line drag(use smaller jigs), and get that touch of stretch without fishing with a runner band(mono).
^^^^ This ^^^^

For those who also use braid as their main line with a mono or fluoro leader, why would anyone choose to use less than 20# braid? It adds a little extra protection for a large fish and at the same time it still has the same diameter as 6# mono. Tying knots with anything thinner than that would be like tying with thread. I use 20# braid with a 10-12# fluorocarbon leader. Paired with the correct rod there shouldn't be an issue with ripping the bait out of the fish's mouth unless you set the hook like the pro bass fishermen.
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Old 04-02-2020, 06:33 PM
masterchither masterchither is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjayn View Post
Jigging...braid period. I see no reason to use mono for jigging. I prefer the no stretch of braid over mono. (if)A tiny bit of stretch is preferred, tie on a 3-6ft leader of mono of Fluoro.

Hook sets, sensitivity, and line drag are better with braid and it takes about 11 minutes to learn not to rip the bait out of the fishes mouth.
I had been a mono man for years. However, these last two seasons I switched to braid, but I was fishing bass in the grass. And using a casting rod/reel. But that line was all new to me, braid. And when I was fishing outside the weed line around the 22' drop off I would go back to my spinning rod/reel with 12 lb green mono. I think from confidence and muscle memory.

Well this year will be my first year using invizx fluorocarbon. I have it spooled up on a few of my spinning rod/reels for walleye jigging. My understanding is no stretch, and great sensitivity.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjayn View Post

I highly doubt anyone has "much better luck" with mono over braid. I just don't see it. Maybe technique on fighting a fish with braid causes some people issues. But actual bites from fish, I don't see a difference. Preferring mono is one thing, but I don't think it has any advantage as far as number of fish that bite.
I agree, I think line drag plus a good rod and net man land more fish!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjayn View Post
I also suggest trying braid with a 4ft leader. The best of both words.
[/QUOTE]

Would that be for jigging? Also I have a question, do you throw crankbaits with the braid, and does the line sink deep? I know mono floats.
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  #10  
Old 04-03-2020, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masterchither View Post

Would that be for jigging? Also I have a question, do you throw crankbaits with the braid, and does the line sink deep? I know mono floats.
Yes, Jigging is great with braid, the deeper you jig the more the benefit over mono, because of sensitivity and (no) stretch.

The leader is there to add a little stretch and for me it allows loop knots which I like to use. The leader is not necessary and tying the jig directly to the braid works great.


I cast cranks alot and braid doesn't really seem to sink or float, I guess it suspends. But with the thinner diameter once the cranks lip starts grabbing it will go down faster/farther then mono, at least over the life of a cast, not sure about trolling. I would think the higher drag of mono would cause it to run slightly higher.

I pretty much use braid with a leader for most applications these days. There are times no leader is needed(as mentioned), mono is a great tool, but for the way I fish(cast structure and jig) it can pretty much do everything with braid.
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