1600 Fury Tiller w. 40 Yamaha - prop?

[robm_mb]

Hi guys,

Looking to re-power a Fury 1600 Tiller and I'm wondering what size prop I should be looking into. Likely will end up with a 40hp Yamaha (four stroke) and all I could come up with was this thread from the archives - https://www.walleyecentral.com/forums.../t-195798.html, was a bit inconclusive other than pointing out that the 13" pitch left a bit to be desired in terms of top end, likely revving a bit low (?). I'm hoping for results with 11", 12" and 13" pitch stock aluminum props - anybody have any experience?

Thanks,
- Rob

[Hot Runr Guy]

Rob,
Down here in the States, we can't put a 40 on a 1600 Fury tiller, so you might not get much feedback on that combination. However, looking at an old Yamaha F40 test, on a 300# heavier hull, and a Mercury test of a similar motor (3 cyl, same in3, same gear ratio) I'd have to think that a 13" pitch prop would be your best starting point. Hopefully your dealer will let you use a tach so you can know where your rpms are, if your rig doesn't have one.

http://www.yamahaoutboards.com/sites...167-f40tlr.pdf

http://www.mercurymarine.com/engines...49.35917030315

HRG

[Elrik]

Originally Posted by Hot Runr Guy

Rob,
Down here in the States, we can't put a 40 on a 1600 Fury tiller, so you might not get much feedback on that combination. However, looking at an old Yamaha F40 test, on a 300# heavier hull, and a Mercury test of a similar motor (3 cyl, same in3, same gear ratio) I'd have to think that a 13" pitch prop would be your best starting point. Hopefully your dealer will let you use a tach so you can know where your rpms are, if your rig doesn't have one.

http://www.yamahaoutboards.com/sites...167-f40tlr.pdf

http://www.mercurymarine.com/engines...49.35917030315

HRG

T-Mac might have something to say about that since he has a 40 merc with the big tiller handle on his 1600 fury. Lund US website also lists max hp as 40 for it. Maybe you are thinking of the 1400 which is max rated for a 30?

I only have a 30 on mine so I cannot help you Rob. A 40 would be nice, but the 30 was good enough for me for the price difference.

[Hot Runr Guy]

Originally Posted by Elrik

T-Mac might have something to say about that since he has a 40 merc with the big tiller handle on his 1600 fury. Lund US website also lists max hp as 40 for it. Maybe you are thinking of the 1400 which is max rated for a 30?

I only have a 30 on mine so I cannot help you Rob. A 40 would be nice, but the 30 was good enough for me for the price difference.

Duh, sorry 'bout that. I didn't have enough coffee yet when I posted,,,,,,

HRG

[MarkG]

Originally Posted by robm_mb

Hi guys,

Looking to re-power a Fury 1600 Tiller and I'm wondering what size prop I should be looking into. Likely will end up with a 40hp Yamaha (four stroke) and all I could come up with was this thread from the archives - https://www.walleyecentral.com/forums.../t-195798.html, was a bit inconclusive other than pointing out that the 13" pitch left a bit to be desired in terms of top end, likely revving a bit low (?). I'm hoping for results with 11", 12" and 13" pitch stock aluminum props - anybody have any experience?

Thanks,
- Rob

I running an F40 on a 2001 Lund Rebel 1650-V tiller . I believe it's a slightly heavier boat than a Fury 1600 by about 200 ish lbs. I settled on an 11p ,which gives me 30mph right at 6000rpm,with very good low end and easy to plane even with 3 people. I had tried a 13p for grins to see if could get any better top, but did not. All it did was make it a dog out of the hole and slow to get to top speed. Don't remember what WOT RPM was ,but pretty sure was way short of 6K.

Since the Fury is lighter, (I think) .. I would guess a 12p about right. I don't get the idea that the 13 would do much better on a Fury than on a Rebel-V ,it was a dog. An 11p ,would get you up and running quick,but may be a bit low for that boat and would likely often put you up against the rev limiter. On the other hand, if you are always loaded heavy with gear and people, may still be a good option. That all being said, may be best to call around to some Lund dealers and take a poll on what they like for that setup, or even Lund directly.

If T-Mac sees this, he also could have some experienced insight.

[robm_mb]

Thanks guys, appreciate it. Leaning towards 12" pitch at this point unless somebody (t-Mac or other) can convince me otherwise.

[robm_mb]

Just posting to follow up on this. We recently sold the 1-year old merc 25ELHPT that came with the boat and bought a '14 F40LA and converted it to the tiller kit. Went this route in order to get power trim, as the F40LEHA tiller model doesn't come with power trim. Cost a few more bucks but worth it IMO. I want to give a huge shout out to Geremy @ Aqua Services in Repentigny, Quebec. We are half way across the country, and even after shipping cost (a reasonable $200) this motor was $500 cdn cheaper than the next closest local dealer for the same package. For my fellow Canucks, consider also that you only pay 5% tax when buying out of Quebec, this makes these guys worth considering wherever you are!

On to the nitty gritty - motor is awesome, have ~12 hours on it now. It's super smooth, quiet, and powerful, and I love the troll-down feature. We were recommended a 13p prop and went with that (standard yamaha aluminum prop, unsure of diameter).

Performance
- Motor mounted on TOP hole, cavitation plate ~1/4" below transom bottom
- 13p prop
- Decent holeshot, not mind blowing per se
- 49km/hr (30.4mph) trimmed up, 2 ppl in boat and light gear
- Comfortable cruising at 35-40 km/hr (22-25mph) @ ~3/4 throttle

At present I'm not 100% certain that the prop is correct as this boat doesn't have a tach. I purchased a yamaha NMEA adapter cable, Lowrance p/n 000-0120-37 (http://www.gpscity.ca/lowrance-nmea-...ace-cable.html) and plan to tach it with my HDS5 but haven't done so yet. Note: this cable DOES plug into the newer 40LA's despite Lowrance's instructions omitting the F40LA as being NMEA-compatible. (It was easy to route the cable through the main grommet leaving the cowling, there was a cut-out that the cable fit through quite nicely.) With that said, going by ear I think it's running at close to 6000rpm, maybe slightly low. Also planning to lift the motor 1 mounting hole to second hole from the top, think there might be some minor gains to be had from that.

Gripes:
- anti-frction lever comes loose easier than other tiller motors I have used, need to tighten lock nut after fishing (back trolling, lots of motor turning)
- no mechanism to lock tiller handle upright, the 25ELHPT had this. Tiller handle rests on transom "spill tray" after a few minutes of trailering on the highway, makes small rub marks on both tiller handle underside (plastic) and transom spill tray (aluminum)
- Tiller handle considerably longer than 25ELHPT, wasn't anticipating this. Will likely move seat forward a few inches (2-3) as tight left turns are difficult, have to tilt tiller handle up to make it clear your body and the seat back

Will post a follow up once the motor is lifted, likely next spring. Overall, quite happy with this motor, just wish it would have been on there in the first place!

[MarkG]

Originally Posted by robm_mb

Just posting to follow up on this.

Gripes:
- anti-frction lever comes loose easier than other tiller motors I have used, need to tighten lock nut after fishing (back trolling, lots of motor turning)
- no mechanism to lock tiller handle upright, the 25ELHPT had this. Tiller handle rests on transom "spill tray" after a few minutes of trailering on the highway, makes small rub marks on both tiller handle underside (plastic) and transom spill tray (aluminum)
- Tiller handle considerably longer than 25ELHPT, wasn't anticipating this. Will likely move seat forward a few inches (2-3) as tight left turns are difficult, have to tilt tiller handle up to make it clear your body and the seat back

Will post a follow up once the motor is lifted, likely next spring. Overall, quite happy with this motor, just wish it would have been on there in the first place!

I had exactly the same gripes on my F40 that I purchased 12 years ago. Some things never change. But easy to deal with:

-Friction lever nut: Dab some blue locktit on the threads,,then adjust it exactly like you want the lever to work,(your desirable minumum and maximum limits). Make sure you give it a couple days to cure before using or moving the lever again,otherwise it will immediately start to spin loose again. Did this on mine when I got aggravated with it the first season, never had to re-adjust since.

No Tiller handle lock: My Rebel V has a carpeted hatched compartment the tiller ended up resting on when tilted up during trailering. Started to chafe the carpet. My fix was easy,since it was resting on a wide flat surface. When trailering,I simply place my throwable cushion I keep in the boat,on that compartment, so the tiller is resting on the cushion ,not the carpet. In your case,possibly you could wrap and bungie something around the handle.maybe a piece of foam, or bubble wrap,at the point it is rubbing on the spill tray.

The handle length was not much of an issue,as my seat placement was far enough forward for the most part, But,still,on that sharp left turn I have to swivel my body in the seat a bit. Your decision to move the seat,is likely the best.

[Freedom1955]

I just purchased a Alumacraft 145 Classic and put a Yami 40LA with VTS on it. They set it up with a 12p prop, second hole which puts the plate 1/2-3/4" below bottom of hull. Boat alone weighs 550lbs. 76"beam. Performance is very good,including hole shot. Top end is only 30.6 trimmed up. It does not hit the rev limiter. No tach so I don't know at what rpm its running. Thinking of getting a spare prop and I probably would try the 11p. I would prefer to be able to hit the rev limiter and then back it down. My previous boat was set up this way and my top end was faster.
Take this for what it's worth as I'm no expert.