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  #51  
Old 09-16-2021, 07:54 PM
Marble-Eyes Marble-Eyes is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Southern Mn. I-35
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Choices have a lot to do with where and how you fish. Big motor gets you there and gets you back. As long as you can get on plane is big enough. BassMaster boats that can do 70 mph are pointless in Minnesota. I’d make sure I had a kicker for trolling before I’d max hp on the big motor. A good dealer is gonna put your electronics where they need to be. They all want your money, so this rarely shows up in the package price. Hydraulic steering. Good travel cover. Top notch electronics mean more to me than speed. Prices won’t come down, so plan ahead so you won’t need an upgrade in 3-4 years. Sit in the bow…see how much room you have. Lot of manufactures use models that are 5’4” tall….makes the boat look roomier. Troll for sale ads and check out what’s for sale. Might see things to avoid. Might see brands that hold value better than others. Gives you an idea of other boat size and hp options. I would plan on a Boat Show special this coming January….gives you a lot of time to choose your particulars. I liked the suggestion to talk to other guys but remember…most won’t admit their regrets.
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  #52  
Old 09-17-2021, 01:26 AM
rknott rknott is offline
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Had my last trailer for 15 years with bunks. Never replaced the carpet once. For electronics, part of the reason for factory or dealer install is to make sure the transducer is mounted correctly and you frequently get better fit and finish. However, if you are one of those extremely detail oriented guys and part of the fun is installing all that stuff, possible it will work out better to self install. I will say, when the guys at the shop were going to put the batteries in my little 1650 Lund rebel, they were going to put the 2 trolling motor batteries in the little box that was on the side of the boat. Instead I wanted them in the middle of the boat so it wouldn't tend to list. Likely not an issue with bigger boats. With that in mind you need to be specific with installers at times.

Not sure why everyone is so "bent" on getting the biggest possible motor. I know you said not about that, so I won't belabor. Unless you are trying to race up a lake in a tournament, is it really all that important getting the last couple of MPH considering cost of gas and size/weight? Big motors mean much more gas.
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  #53  
Old 09-17-2021, 11:36 PM
Snowking Snowking is offline
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Location: Germantown, WI, USA.
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Well you have big choices to make. I doubt it would be legal towing a 1875 impact 150 outboard with a Jeep Wrangler. You need a truck with 5000 tow rating not 3500. Even if you could do it. Would not be pleasant at all. A tandem axle would just make it worse. Add more weight you would be towing. If Canada is anything like the US. Any setup that weighs more then 3000 lbs brakes are required. So normally any windshield boat above 18 feet. If you decide to tow a 1775 115 setup with your wrangler. I think you would also want trailer brakes. Jeeps are on the light side for breaking. In most areas of Canada you would for sure want a galvanized trailer. To many gravel roads. As far as what brand outboard. It has been posted no more Honda’s on Lunds going forward.. Biggest expense going with a non Mercury motor on a wheeled boat. You normally have to buy a second set of controls. Have the Mercury controls removed. Then have Yamaha controls installed. I have had the Yamaha 150 and Merc 150. I actually like the Merc a little bit better. Rollers or bunks. First decide if you are going to power load or just winch the boat on. If winching I would go rollers. Plus depending where you are. Seems like Canada has allot of unimproved shallow launch’s. I would lean way more into the roller trailer because of that.
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  #54  
Old 09-17-2021, 11:43 PM
Snowking Snowking is offline
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Might have missed someone explaining wavepro or smooth moves. They are different brand suspension systems for your boat seats. Shock absorbers that really save your back when you hit that unexpected wave. If you search you will easily find the websites.
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  #55  
Old 09-18-2021, 10:05 AM
DW DW is online now
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Everything about boat design is trade offs and compromise.

You asked why do two similar boats have significant differences in HP ratings. The answer is primarily a matter of structural design most of which a buyer can’t see. A manufacturer is not likely to risk structural failure to over rate max HP.

One thing you will notice is as deadrise increases, max HP rating increases. More deadrise, the more seaworthy the craft.

I have a 17’ and have no remorse I didn’t go bigger. The reason is I tow 5 to 10k miles a year. If you tow a lot go small. If you live on a lake or tow little, then go bigger.

The most common max trailer axle capacity is 3,500 pounds. A 17’ with all the stuff is about the most boat you can carry with that axle and leave capacity for fuel baggage, groceries etc. A 18’ boat will require some compromise in what you carry in a boat with a 3,500# trailer axle.

I have towed my trailer about 80 to 90k miles and the carpeted bunks are nearly perfect condition. I would go with bunks unless you will launch/retrieve at primitive ramps.

I don’t prefer jump seats. They are good for cruising but not fishing. Most boats with jump seats have only one centered pedestal position on the rear deck for a seat. I don’t like that. I want two positions off center so that the rear deck has room for a seccond fisherman to use the rear deck if only occasionally. I want four movable seats so that when fishing there is a seat on both the rear and bow decks and two seats including the helm behind a walk thru.

A buyer should perform a weight capacity analysis before buying. Add up all the equipment, fuel and stuff, then subtract that from the boat rated capacity. After doing this, I find carrying more than one trolling battery on a 17 infringes on the passenger count so that only 1 or 2 people can be in the boat. This is important if you wish to conform to manufacturers specifications and use the boat for cruising or water sports. Use a combiner and leave the extra battery weight on shore.

Analyze the main motor weight. There are big differences in motor weight with equal HP rating.

You mentioned that you boat in rock infested waters. Consequently, take a hard look at the keel. Some are more stout than others. I have a significant welded keel that is like a solid beam which has saved my boat from significant damage the several times when I ran over rocks.
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  #56  
Old 09-18-2021, 11:06 AM
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Mark Pothen Mark Pothen is offline
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Rdiddy check pm
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  #57  
Old 09-18-2021, 11:40 AM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckmaster7600 View Post

At 3500#’s can you get into an 18ft boat and be under your tow capacity?

My 20ft tiller with a 150 loaded weighs right at 3500 on the trailer.

I can only go buy what Lund quotes their specs on their website, but they seem to say the 1875 Impact XS trailer, boat, motor total weight is 2669 pounds.


Not sure if that includes fuel, the jump up to a 150 HP motor as opposed to whatever size stock size motor they offer on it by default, but I think it's feasible I could pull it.
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  #58  
Old 09-18-2021, 12:09 PM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikear View Post

Another couple notes to consider:
1. If Lund still uses the recreational series battery chargers, I’d consider getting a better charger and install yourself or by the dealer. Mine was 6a per bank I believe and sometimes the trolling motor batteries were not fully charged in the morning after fishing hard the previous day. I have a MK330PC (3 bank, 10a per bank) that has been excellent, there are other good/better brands as well.

2. Don’t let the dealer cheap out on the batteries. Both of my new boats had one or more of the TM batteries fail within a year, cheapest batteries they could install. I would recommend AGM, Gel, or lithium. I’ve got 5 years in a set of 100ah gel batteries for my TM and have never ran them down in a 12 hour day of fishing stiff wind.

3. Research the electronics power requirements for the graphs you choose. Often times the wire from the house or starting battery is not of sufficient gauge to power these modern graphs. It may work, but you’ll have excess voltage drop and issues are common with low voltage.

Yeah all of your post sums up one of the main reasons I wanted to rig my own stuff. I have been watching rigging videos on youtube and I wanted to go with a bullet proof setup so I don't run in to issues down the road... big thick cabling, solid batteries, 36v over a 24v setup, etc.


These are the current battery chargers Lund offers:


2 Bank Recreational Series On-Board Battery Charger $320
3 Bank Recreational Series On-Board Battery Charger $447


Is there a certain amperage rating for battery chargers that is too much? I had thought I previously read you don't want a super high amp battery charger as it may lessen the life expectancy of your battery - in other words, a slow and low approach to charging batteries is desirable?


Thanks for your feedback
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  #59  
Old 09-18-2021, 12:10 PM
buckmaster7600 buckmaster7600 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdiddy View Post
I can only go buy what Lund quotes their specs on their website, but they seem to say the 1875 Impact XS trailer, boat, motor total weight is 2669 pounds.


Not sure if that includes fuel, the jump up to a 150 HP motor as opposed to whatever size stock size motor they offer on it by default, but I think it's feasible I could pull it.

You’ll be over 3200#’s when you add batteries and a tank of gas. I have very little storage in my boat but I have way over 300lbs of stuff in it

People go over tow capacities but it’s not something I would do.

I think you should start looking at smaller boats or a different tow rig…


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  #60  
Old 09-18-2021, 12:14 PM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WalleyeJoe2020 View Post
Diddy-

My primary reasons, [may not be your reasons] were:
[1] Functionality of the boat, layout, all vinyl etc.
[2] NO WOOD or other materials for the transoms [All aluminum]

[3] Yamaha motors - tested by Yamaha on the boat for perfect fit to the boat for proper performance - includes stainless prop

[4] The gauges appear to be of much better quality than many
[5] Transducer mounting plate pre welded to transom -

[6] New EZ Loader trailers
[7] Many items that are "options" with other brands are "standard" IE radio


So quick list, just more for you think about, good luck in your search, happy fishing!!

I have been looking, and between the 4 manufacturers I listed, I don't think any of them offer a full vinyl flooring install. From what I see, it is mainly vinyl in the cockpit with carpet in the bow and on the rear casting deck. I would like full vinyl, personally.


All of the transoms seem to be of a composite material these days. Are their any manufacturers that still use marine grade plywood as transom material anymore? I haven't seen one that is 100% aluminum though, however.


In regards to the transducer mounting plate, are you talking about the smaller rectangular shaped piece of sacrificial plastic manufacturers place on the exterior of the transom? I wasn't aware that some manufacturers weld on a block of aluminum for that purpose?


Thanks for your help
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