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  #11  
Old 09-12-2021, 08:05 PM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltrain View Post
The 18 foot Lund Tyee and Pro V max out at 200. These are the what i would consider the heartier of the Lund models.

Highly recommend the Hydraulic steering, can turn with a finger compared to fighting torque with cable steering. Would never go back to cable after owning hydraulic .

Wave pro or Smooth moves really help with taking the pounding from the waves so your spine doesn't have too. If I was buying a new deep V I would want them.

As far as rigging goes I like doing my own. But if you have never done it before you might want to let the marina do it. But doing it yourself let's you know exactly how its run if you have to troubleshoot later.

Thanks for the recommendation on the hydraulic steering, I will put that on my must have list. I didn't know what advantages it offered, but now I can see it's value so thanks for the explanation.


What is wave pro or smooth moves? From your description I am going to have to assume it's a seating option?


I was leaning towards doing my own rigging for two reasons, one because I enjoy technical installs like that and secondly, for example a humminbird helix or a minn kota ulterra seems to warrant a large markup in price on Lund's factory boat build website.


If I source those units and buy them myself, it seems the prices are considerably less. Frankly, given I am already purchasing boat, motor etc from them I would have expected that they would at least not price gouge on the accessories and electronics... but maybe I am somewhat naive as I have never done this before.... or am I missing something?
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  #12  
Old 09-12-2021, 08:11 PM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Originally Posted by Mark Pothen View Post
My 2 cents worth here.

If you are deciding between a 17 or 18 footer and have the room. 18 footer all the way. Max your hp motor rating.

Look at the boats you are interested in. It's going to come down to what floor plan you like best and what fits your needs. Don't skimp on a trailer.

If you are handy and have the time and are confident go ahead and mount your own electronics if you like doing this.

I like Minnesota guys recommendation. Go to a launch see what guys have and ask them questions. What are their likes and dislikes.

Thanks for the advice Mark, I appreciate you stopping in.


I am pretty much set on an 1800 series boat and a maxed HP motor applicable to that boat, I was just trying to learn why some manufacturers pair a 200 to that size of boat while others pair it with a 150.


Apparently it has a lot to do with gauge of aluminum and transom spec. That makes sense to me.


In regards to your comment on trailers, out of the following options, what do you consider must haves?


Galvanized, or painted?
bunk or rollers?
single axle or tandem?
trailer brakes?
spare tire


I am leaning towards a galvanized roller trailer and definitely a spare tire. Not sure I need a tandem axle or trailer with onboard brakes, but as mentioned many times, I am as green as it gets with this stuff.


If you have any suggestions I'd be glad to hear them.
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  #13  
Old 09-12-2021, 08:21 PM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Originally Posted by Dbars19 View Post
A 1775 (basically) 18 ft. with a 150hp from lund is prob the best boat for a new owner imo. The price goes from 'ok thats alot" for a 1775 to 70+ for a 1875 with a 200hp. What if it turns out you cant fish much or dont like fishing or boats. Then your stuck with a 70k boat. you wont notice much difference between a 1775 or a 1875. Also let the factory do your electronics....

From what I am seeing, a 1775 Lund of any model maxes out at 125 HP, interestingly though Lund doesn't appear to offer any 125 HP motor, Mercury, Honda or otherwise... 115 is the maximum they offer for any 1775 boat that I looked at.


The 1875's are where the 150's start to come into play, and they at least stock / sell those. I believe someone mentioned the Tyee and the like start to get into the 200 HP max range, but for the 1875 Impact and 1875 Impact XS I was looking at, 150 is the max they will let you strap on.


At any rate, I have been fishing for 35+ years and I am finally in a position to get a boat that I have been dreaming of for at least 20 of those years. I assure you I will not be giving up fishing any time soon


Any particular reason you mention leave the electronics to the factory?


Thanks for your help
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  #14  
Old 09-12-2021, 08:22 PM
buckmaster7600 buckmaster7600 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdiddy View Post
Thanks for the advice Mark, I appreciate you stopping in.


I am pretty much set on an 1800 series boat and a maxed HP motor applicable to that boat, I was just trying to learn why some manufacturers pair a 200 to that size of boat while others pair it with a 150.


Apparently it has a lot to do with gauge of aluminum and transom spec. That makes sense to me.


In regards to your comment on trailers, out of the following options, what do you consider must haves?


Galvanized, or painted?
bunk or rollers?
single axle or tandem?
trailer brakes?
spare tire


I am leaning towards a galvanized roller trailer and definitely a spare tire. Not sure I need a tandem axle or trailer with onboard brakes, but as mentioned many times, I am as green as it gets with this stuff.


If you have any suggestions I'd be glad to hear them.

Galvanized or aluminum

I hate roller but they have their use on shallow launches

Single axle unless you’re regularly taking very long trips or are at the top of the tow capacity of your tow vehicle.

Trailer Brakes never hurt but are a necessity if you’re even close to tow capacity on tow rig.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  #15  
Old 09-12-2021, 08:28 PM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Anyone want to weigh in on varying motor options? I pretty much gather that Merc is the default motor any boat comes with.


Is there any benefit going to a Honda or Yamaha outboard? I see the Honda option is approx $800 more than the default merc.


Also, I have searched and search for a clear answer to this but haven't really come up with a definitive answer... how big is too big for a console mounted fish finder? Most guys I see go with something between a 7 to 10 inch Helix or the like. I don't want it to be too big to the point where it obstructs the driver's view, plus I really don't know what comfortably fits within the confines of a full windshield.

Last edited by rdiddy; 09-12-2021 at 08:30 PM.
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  #16  
Old 09-12-2021, 08:29 PM
mikear mikear is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdiddy View Post
Thanks for the advice Mark, I appreciate you stopping in.


I am pretty much set on an 1800 series boat and a maxed HP motor applicable to that boat, I was just trying to learn why some manufacturers pair a 200 to that size of boat while others pair it with a 150.


Apparently it has a lot to do with gauge of aluminum and transom spec. That makes sense to me.


In regards to your comment on trailers, out of the following options, what do you consider must haves?


Galvanized, or painted?
bunk or rollers?
single axle or tandem?
trailer brakes?
spare tire


I am leaning towards a galvanized roller trailer and definitely a spare tire. Not sure I need a tandem axle or trailer with onboard brakes, but as mentioned many times, I am as green as it gets with this stuff.


If you have any suggestions I'd be glad to hear them.

I have a 1775 impact on a single axle painted Shoreland’r trailer. Painted vs galvanized in a freshwater environment really depends on the quality of roads you’re driving (I.e. lots of gravel) that will chip the paint. Doing it again, I’d take the ugly galvanized trailer that will stay ugly.

If you will be driving unimproved roads with a higher potential for tire issues, I’d go tandem axle. However, I drive almost exclusively paved roads and have not had any issues with my single axle trailer.

My trailer has rollers. This really depends on your launch site. If launching shallow, low grade ramps, then go roller as you can push the boat off the trailer. If they’re mostly steep or moderate incline, bunk will be just fine. Some say bunks provide more support. In 5 years and thousands of miles I haven’t had issues with my roller trailer in that regard. I also have no launching problems even on steep ramps, just took practice to figure it out.

I do not have trailer brakes and don’t feel I need them. If I lived in a mountainous region I would have brakes.

Spare tire is a no brainer.
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  #17  
Old 09-12-2021, 08:34 PM
mikear mikear is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2015
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Default First boat purchase ever. Could use some advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by rdiddy View Post
Anyone want to weigh in on varying motor options? I pretty much gather that Merc is the default motor any boat comes with.


Is there any benefit going to a Honda or Yamaha outboard? I see the Honda option is approx $800 more than the default merc.


Also, I have searched and search for a clear answer to this but haven't really come up with a definitive answer... how big is too big for a console mounted fish finder? Most guys I see go with something between a 7 to 10 inch Helix or the like. I don't want it to be too big to the point where it obstructs the driver's view, plus I really don't know what comfortably fits within the confines of a full windshield.

I have had two new Mercury four stroke motors. A 2015 90hp and a 2016 115hp. I’ve had no issues, do the maintenance myself, and they sip gas. Buddy has a Honda on his Lund and has the same experience as mine. Just because I like Yamaha, I’d probably get one if I were in the market today. It really boils down to who is the best mechanic closest to you in case you have an unfortunate engine issue.

All that being said, most of these new motors are really good.

As far as graphs, I have an HDS 9 on the console, I could probably get by with a 10 inch unit but it would be close without getting creative on the mounting. You will lose some line of sight with a 9-10” unit, but not harmful in my experience.
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  #18  
Old 09-12-2021, 09:13 PM
Dbars19 Dbars19 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdiddy View Post
From what I am seeing, a 1775 Lund of any model maxes out at 125 HP, interestingly though Lund doesn't appear to offer any 125 HP motor, Mercury, Honda or otherwise... 115 is the maximum they offer for any 1775 boat that I looked at.


The 1875's are where the 150's start to come into play, and they at least stock / sell those. I believe someone mentioned the Tyee and the like start to get into the 200 HP max range, but for the 1875 Impact and 1875 Impact XS I was looking at, 150 is the max they will let you strap on.


At any rate, I have been fishing for 35+ years and I am finally in a position to get a boat that I have been dreaming of for at least 20 of those years. I assure you I will not be giving up fishing any time soon


Any particular reason you mention leave the electronics to the factory?


Thanks for your help
Thats interesting. Lund doesnt make the 1775 Crossover anymore, was looking at a 2019 lund book i have. As for electronics, its fairly easy to put a graph on at the helm. But once you start drilling holes into a 60k new boat, you want someone who has done it before. my 2 cent
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  #19  
Old 09-12-2021, 10:20 PM
chico chico is offline
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My 2c - Get the 18'r you will not regret it. As for the motor max HP is best if budget allows. Depending on your fishing style bowmount 24v will do again if budget allows 36v. If you go with lowrance bowmount will be motorguide and minn-kota for hummingbird. Largest screen budget allows, not an issue for blindspots as you will soon find out. Being in Ottawa i am sure you will have a marine shop nearby for service of witch ever motor you pick. Do not go with old style steering, pick budget allowing new steering that manufacturer options. Bunk trailer is a lot more user friendly than roller by any means. My last boat i installed my own electronics 10 yrs ago with help from WC and a few other sites, at the age of 56 i was debating but after all these years i am glad i did. As for the seats i would just order with the captain chairs up front as upgrading to smooth seats or others is a simple bolt on option. Full windshield, bimini top helps on those cold mornings and windy days. Being in Ottawa i would go next door and get a Princecraft love the setup and style( i own 18' Crestliner). This is just my opinion and not wanting to engage in one is better than the other. If you ever come west look me up in Calgary and i will take you out for a day or two on an 18' Crestliner to help you in your decision making. I think i have said a bit to much already good luck on your decisions...Chico...
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  #20  
Old 09-13-2021, 09:35 AM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckmaster7600 View Post
Galvanized or aluminum

I hate roller but they have their use on shallow launches

Single axle unless you’re regularly taking very long trips or are at the top of the tow capacity of your tow vehicle.

Trailer Brakes never hurt but are a necessity if you’re even close to tow capacity on tow rig.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
One of the reasons I was eyeballing the roller trailer was because any time I have ever seen a person with a bunk trailer that is more than 4 or 5 years old, the carpeting on the bunks is always damaged or worn right off. In my mind the rollers really wouldn't require as much upkeep, no?

Can I ask why you hate them?

I have a Jeep Wrangler 4 door and the max towing capacity on it is apparently only 3500 pounds. How does the second axle alleviate weight restriction concerns?

Thanks for the suggestions
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