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  #21  
Old 12-28-2019, 10:26 AM
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Bobby Winds Bobby Winds is offline
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[QUOTE=Aspencreek;6381160]
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Originally Posted by Bobby Winds View Post

We actually thought about that....but.....this is an aluminum boat and the bottom is not flat but filled with ribs that the PVC would have to sit on top of, so they will be approx 1" off the floor. And then how does the drain PVC collect the water? Holes drilled in them like drain tile? Where the pour in foam will fill them and then defeat the purpose of the drains. Maybe I'm over thinking this, but I'm the kind of guy who sits in meetings asking the question "OK, how is this going to work and what are the possible consequences if we proceed?" I'm an implementation guy, my son is the ideas guy. He thinks he may have come up with an idea, we have a Family Christmas party tonight so I will get the low down.

Cut the 3/4 sheet in 1/2 this morning and glued them up, looking go so far for the transom, fitting and final shaping comes tomorrow. Then sealing!
Then leave the center void of flotation foam for good drainage........maybe just a 6" void will be plenty.
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  #22  
Old 12-28-2019, 10:55 AM
andersaki andersaki is offline
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[QUOTE=Bobby Winds;6381388]
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Originally Posted by Aspencreek View Post

Then leave the center void of flotation foam for good drainage........maybe just a 6" void will be plenty.
Exactly, also run small drain tubes from the cup holders and from the underside of the seat bases. Same thing for any rod or storage lockers/areas, make sure that they can drain to the center and to the bilge.

andersaki
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  #23  
Old 12-28-2019, 11:49 AM
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[QUOTE=andersaki;6381400]
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Exactly, also run small drain tubes from the cup holders and from the underside of the seat bases. Same thing for any rod or storage lockers/areas, make sure that they can drain to the center and to the bilge.

andersaki
And if you drill a hole in the bottom of the boat you will have a direct access to the lake.....lol

Good luck n Get R Done.....
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  #24  
Old 12-29-2019, 05:40 PM
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I would reinstall the foam it is for flotation in case the worst happens. There are newer foams that do not absorb water.
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  #25  
Old 12-29-2019, 06:17 PM
andersaki andersaki is offline
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[QUOTE=Bobby Winds;6381416]
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And if you drill a hole in the bottom of the boat you will have a direct access to the lake.....lol

Good luck n Get R Done.....
Bobby, if you do that, you'd better install a check valve lol

andersaki
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  #26  
Old 12-29-2019, 06:46 PM
REW REW is offline
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Speaking of a void.

I would leave a 6 inch wide area running form the bow to the transom void of any foam. That way, any water that ended up in the bilge would have free passage all of the way to the drain on the transom for complete removal between trips with the drain plug out

By the way, you ARE going to to the leak test for the hull before you get very far down the road aren't you?

If the hull leaks, you really don't have a reasonable boat until the issue with any found leak has been resolved.

Take care
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  #27  
Old 12-30-2019, 09:55 AM
Ches Ches is offline
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My boat has factory installed wire runs from front to back and side to side in front and back. It looks like they used 3" drainage tile (that black ribbed plastic stuff). I got a schematic from the factory and was able to use them for all my wiring needs. They came in very handy. I know you don't want the foam, but you do need flotation so the whole thing does not sink, even if just tied to a pier.
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  #28  
Old 12-30-2019, 10:26 AM
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Go to YouTube and look up a channel called Tiny Boat Nation. It is a channel with some great DIY how to videos on boat rebuilding. He takes old boats like jon boats and others and converts them into small boat fishing machines. I think it will give you some insight into how to do many of the things being discussed here.

https://www.youtube.com/user/TH3TITAN360

I enjoy watching this channel just for DIY boat info. It's good.
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  #29  
Old 12-30-2019, 01:54 PM
Aspencreek Aspencreek is offline
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Thanks you guys for all the ideas, I should say that the pour in place foam was only on each side of the center section, which holds the gas tank. This tank is maybe 4-5 inches deep but is well over 5' long, so the center section is open down the middle. When we pulled the tank the pour in foam had run under the tank and pushed its way around the tank itself. We already have closed cell foam pieces cut to support the tank underneath and down the sides. We are replacing the pour foam with enclosed cell foam blocks cut to fit the area above the ribs and under the floor. These are triangular at the ends and about 2' long. We are then wrapping them like a christmas present with heavy mil plastic and spray glue. It works slick, there is an air/water gap at the bottom and will support the floor at the top. We are also adding 1' wide aluminum strap on the ribs to support the foam blocks and adding 1x1 aluminum angle at the foam block joints to again stiffen the floor.

Things are starting to go back in so the fun is starting, now....how do you post pics?
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  #30  
Old 12-30-2019, 02:55 PM
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Those icons at the bottom of the test box. Hit the button with the mountains on it.


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