Greasing Bearings

[Lazy Ike]

Since you feel there was water replacing them removes any risk. Have them replaced with the grease you plan on using going forward. Keep extra tubes around so you can swap the grease as needed. Spare rubber caps too.

[Bobby Winds]

Originally Posted by Yooper61

Couldn't find the Lucas grease but found a marine grease at local auto parts store. When I removed the ripped cap, the oil almost oozed out so i assume water had penetrated. Added the new grease until all i got was new grease on both wheels.

Checked bearings midway into the trip in Greenbay and hobs were completely cool. Trip was completed and now the boat is living in the U.P until October so I will probable change the grease to lucas before the return trip.

Should the bearings be removed and cleaned? Is it necessary? As long as the bearings have adequate and good grease, shouldn't they last for years? I wouldn't do the servicing myself but might be a good idea when I get the boat winterized.
Thanks for the information

The important thing with the grease you are using is it's the same base as what is in there.......so was the marine grease a Lithium Complex grease and what is the Temp Drop Point......If I remember correctly Dexter requires a Drop Point of at least 419 degrees. If it meets these requirements you're good to go.

[Custom Eyes]

Originally Posted by Yooper61

Couldn't find the Lucas grease but found a marine grease at local auto parts store. When I removed the ripped cap, the oil almost oozed out so i assume water had penetrated. Added the new grease until all i got was new grease on both wheels.

Checked bearings midway into the trip in Greenbay and hobs were completely cool. Trip was completed and now the boat is living in the U.P until October so I will probable change the grease to lucas before the return trip.

Should the bearings be removed and cleaned? Is it necessary? As long as the bearings have adequate and good grease, shouldn't they last for years? I wouldn't do the servicing myself but might be a good idea when I get the boat winterized.


Thanks for the information

That's why I don't recommend lithium greases for marine applications. They can handle a little water contamination, but not much before they turn to slop or leave free water in the hub and bearings to cause rust. Calcium sulfonate grease can handle more water contamination than any other type. Added benefit is that the thickener in the grease is a corrosion inhibitor so if you do have a seal failure and allot of water contamination, nothing will rust. Microscopic flash rust can happen very quickly and pit bearing surfaces.


If you didn't change types of grease, you should be fine without having to do a complete breakdown and cleaning. I wouldn't worry about the dropping point. Even a lithium that isn't complexed will still have a dropping point of around 400-410F. If you reach the dropping point of a grease, you're screwed already and probably melted your seals and destroyed the bearings already anyways. The next time you do a complete breakdown and cleaning, do yourself a favor and change over to a calcium sulfonate grease. As a lubricant formulator, I use Lubrimatic Marine grease.

[EasternWashingtonBoater]

I use one of those temp guns to check my hubs. Just point and read. You'll see variations, too.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...7-20/206260202

There are cheap ones on Amazon, etc. ($10).

[REW]

Bobby,
Why do you suggest using a manual grease gun?

[Bobby Winds]

Originally Posted by REW

Bobby,
Why do you suggest using a manual grease gun?

Because Dexter requires it per their maintenance manual and for warranty coverage. It's covered here in this 2 minute video....... I would guess so you don't blow out the rear seals while purging the old grease out of the hub.

https://www.dexteraxle.com/resources...-z-lube-system