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  #21  
Old 01-23-2017, 01:44 PM
Snowking Snowking is offline
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Are you free spooling dipsys out. Leave the clicker on and maybe some drag. That way they will slowly deploy and pull to the side. I normally have the dipsy weight at 1.5 or 2 setting. If you have swivel downriggers with long enough arms. You can pivot them toward the transom before you deploy the dipsys. Then just swing them back out to the side when you have the dipsys out.
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  #22  
Old 01-23-2017, 02:35 PM
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B-man B-man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowking View Post
Are you free spooling dipsys out. Leave the clicker on and maybe some drag. That way they will slowly deploy and pull to the side. I normally have the dipsy weight at 1.5 or 2 setting. If you have swivel downriggers with long enough arms. You can pivot them toward the transom before you deploy the dipsys. Then just swing them back out to the side when you have the dipsys out.
Great points, and I'll add to make sure you have the weight turned the right way. You always want the weight towards the boat. Hard to imagine without one in your hand, but you'll see what mean when you have one.
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  #23  
Old 03-13-2017, 10:16 AM
T-MO T-MO is offline
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I have been reading as many threads as I can, to be brought up to speed on trolling rods, there is so many opinions and suggestions, its almost confusing. What i'm looking for is line counter reels/rod combo. My goal is to have 2 rod/reel combo that I can troll cranks/spinners in the summer time at deep depths but will also double as lake trout trolling rods at the same time. So my questions are ?
1. Can I use braid alone on a line counter combo with snap weights and/or tad pole and a Fluro leader to accomplish this ?

2. will this set up work to avoid lead core ? I will be using it on lakes in Northern Saskatchewan, obviously no great lakes here, but some bigger waters none the less.
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  #24  
Old 03-13-2017, 10:18 AM
T-MO T-MO is offline
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Originally Posted by Karas3434 View Post
I do exactly what your asking, I multi purpose walleye and salmon gear. I ran 20lb braid for years on 20 size reels and caught both walleye and salmon with it. I just this year purchased some 30 size reels with 20lb line just for salmon fishing (mainly due to the water fleas in Ontario), but I still use the same 8ft rods for both.

Downriggers would really help you increase the amount of lines you run for salmon and can easily be taken off the boat (or even used) when walleye fishing. But without downriggers your going to need to run dipsy divers (or some type of diving device). You need to be able to get lines in the 100-150ft range to really increase the time of the year you can fish. The magnum dipsys you need to dive 100+ ft pull like a freight train and need serious rod to handle them. I do know a few guys running them on 8.5ft downrigger rods but ideally a dipsy rod is 9-10ft and a reel with braid or wire line.

The biggest thing you I would recommend would be downriggers, electrics are really nice but manuals will work fine also. You can usually find the hand crank (manual) style downriggers on craigslist or other place for pretty cheap. 2 downriggers with rods stacked (2 rods per downrigger) and 2 dipsys is a pretty solid spread for a smaller boat. Another option is planer boards with copper or even lead core line, but the amount of copper/leadcore needed to get down that deep will sink regular in-line walleye boards, unless your running a mast and big boards you will need the larger SST in-line boards to handle the weight. Obviously the tackle is completely different with flasher/flies/spoons being the main salmon takers, there is little to no crossover of baits between the two. It is definitely do-able without the need for 2 completely different sets of gear, goodluck!
I have been reading as many threads as I can, to be brought up to speed on trolling rods, there is so many opinions and suggestions, its almost confusing. What i'm looking for is line counter reels/rod combo. My goal is to have 2 rod/reel combo that I can troll cranks/spinners in the summer time at deep depths but will also double as lake trout trolling rods at the same time. So my questions are ?
1. Can I use braid alone on a line counter combo with snap weights and/or tad pole and a Fluro leader to accomplish this ?

2. will this set up work to avoid lead core ? I will be using it on lakes in Northern Saskatchewan, obviously no great lakes here, but some bigger waters none the less.
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  #25  
Old 03-13-2017, 10:30 AM
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B-man B-man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-MO View Post
I have been reading as many threads as I can, to be brought up to speed on trolling rods, there is so many opinions and suggestions, its almost confusing. What i'm looking for is line counter reels/rod combo. My goal is to have 2 rod/reel combo that I can troll cranks/spinners in the summer time at deep depths but will also double as lake trout trolling rods at the same time. So my questions are ?
1. Can I use braid alone on a line counter combo with snap weights and/or tad pole and a Fluro leader to accomplish this ?

2. will this set up work to avoid lead core ? I will be using it on lakes in Northern Saskatchewan, obviously no great lakes here, but some bigger waters none the less.
The quick answer is yes and yes.

There are a bunch of ways to get lures to depth, snapweights on braid is definitely one of them.

What depth are the Lakers you are targeting?
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  #26  
Old 03-13-2017, 11:28 AM
T-MO T-MO is offline
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maxium depth would be 75ish feet, but typically 40 to 60ft...
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  #27  
Old 03-13-2017, 02:17 PM
spurs101 spurs101 is offline
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I've got two manual Cannons with swival base and extended booms I can let go for $450. Assembled but you would have to pick up or meet somewhere. I'm in SE Wisconsin. Trust me, you'll want to run riggers. Never used. I repaired my current riggers last spring.
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  #28  
Old 03-13-2017, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-MO View Post
maxium depth would be 75ish feet, but typically 40 to 60ft...
I would look at running at least 8oz balls on an OR-16 release (as a snap weight).

There are a lot of factors that will determine how much line you need out (speed, lure, current etc), but 100' out will generally be in the 30'-35' down range. 200' will generally get you to the 60' ballpark.

You may also want to think about running Mag Dipsys instead of snap weights. They can be set to plane out the sides to reduce the chance of a tangle. Using planer boards with snap weights will do the same thing. Downriggers are best if you want to invest in them, but not 100% necessary.

A great investment is a Fish Hawk TD for your application. They are a little over $100 and will tell you right where you are for depth, and it also logs the water temperature every 5' as you send it down. (You only need one probe, and log your data to repeat your depths).

You need to clip it onto an already deployed line. It then free slides down the line and gives you the most accurate readings. If you just clip it on and send it out with the lure, it will show a shallower depth then what the lure will actually get to, because of the added water drag the probe creates.
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Last edited by B-man; 03-13-2017 at 05:37 PM.
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  #29  
Old 03-13-2017, 04:55 PM
REW REW is offline
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I believe that the post from B-man needs a slight correction.

He indicated that you would run at least an 8 oz ball on the down rigger.

I believe that he meant that you would want to run at least an 8 LB. ball on the down rigger.

In addition many folks prefer to have less blow back on the ball and use either a 10lb ball or a 12 lb ball.

Also, to minimize blow back, some folks like to use a fish shaped ball or torpedo shaped ball.
The ball shape will be longer and more slender and will present less drag - and hence less drag than a round ball.

Or, they may run balls with attached fins to help stabilize the ball in the currents of the running ball in the water:

https://www.google.com/search?q=torp...w=1680&bih=871

Some folks also use braided high lb line for the down rigger connection, rather than the more common wire line. With the braid, you do not get the singing sound that you get from wire, and you typically get less blowback because the braided down rigger line is smaller than the similar wire line.

https://www.google.com/search?q=wire...w=1680&bih=871

https://www.amazon.com/American-Fish.../dp/B004VZ62FM

https://www.afwhiseas.com/product-p/r250t-3.htm

Notice that the braid is .023 inches. The wire line is .039 inches.

http://saltpatrol.com/articles/braid...n-downriggers/
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  #30  
Old 03-13-2017, 04:57 PM
REW REW is offline
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You don't need to spend a lot of money for a downrigger rod.
The best downrigger rods are inexpensive fiberglass rods of the appropriate power for the purpose.

For example:

https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/qua...wnrigger%20rod

Or:
http://www.sportsmanswarehouse.com/s...9989/cat101035

If you want to run wire line, you might consider a rod with a roller tip:

http://www.sportsmanswarehouse.com/s...2859/cat101035

Last edited by REW; 03-13-2017 at 05:00 PM.
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