Home   |  Message Board   |  Information   |  Classifieds   |  Features   |  Video  |  Boat Reviews  |  Boat DIY
Help with electrical! Please help! - Walleye Message Central
Walleye Message Central

Go Back   Walleye Message Central > Boats, Motors, Electronics and Trailers > Boats

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-11-2011, 10:08 AM
Broncosteven Broncosteven is offline
Minnow
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Spokane Washington.
Posts: 51
Default Help with electrical! Please help!

I have a boat, just recently purchased. It ran great, started, etc. It had a bunch of leads leading off of the leads that were supposed to be the 12v outlet. I removed them, and was trying to chase down why some accessories didn't work. Bilge pump, etc. I had voltage at the switch, instrument light, etc.

So I removed the extra wiring, the was not connected to anything other than the one end. The other ends were just dangling in space. I don't know if I accidentally shorted the ignition switch, etc, because I never heard a short or saw a spark. Now I have nothing at the dash. Nothing works. I chased the voltage from the battery, and can get it up to the dash. However, if I connect it to the circuit breakers, the voltage dissappears. Any ideas? Bad ignition switch? Bad circuit breakers? The boat is completely dead at the moment. Thanks for the help!
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old 10-11-2011, 11:15 AM
Browning300WSM Browning300WSM is offline
Minnow
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 41
Default

Probably the safest way to start would be unhook all of the batteries in the boat then use a continuity tester and find out which wires go where. Who knows if the previous owner ran a power lead from a trolling motor battery ect .. to the dash. Then once you have identified the wires then you can start testing things to see if they work or not.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-11-2011, 11:31 AM
woodscreek woodscreek is offline
Minnow
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: West Bend, WI
Posts: 35
Default

If you can't figure it out with the tester. I would consider running a new + and - wire to power the dash. Sometimes it's better to start fresh. It should be fused. 20a near the battery. Under the dash there should be fuses/ breakers the power the individual components bilge, livewell, lights ect.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old 10-11-2011, 01:52 PM
Broncosteven Broncosteven is offline
Minnow
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Spokane Washington.
Posts: 51
Default

It has circuit breakers, right under the switches. There are 7 of them. The first two seem completely bad. They don't trip, and you get no voltage through them. I am going o replace them tonight and keep chasing. I have followed the power from the battery up to the dash, and it is good, so I just need to see what all in the dash is wacky.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 10-11-2011, 10:13 PM
REW REW is offline
Charter Member
 
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: .
Posts: 38,947
Default

Bronco,
If it were my boat, I would strip out every piece of electrical wire in the boat and start over.

That way, you would know exactly what you have, and where you have it.

Run a pair of 8 gauge wires from the dash area fuse block to the 12 volt battery.

Then, run your accessories, lights, etc. off of the fuse block.
You should also have two heavy motor wires connected to the battery.
But, you should only end up with these 4 wires connected to the battery.

As you wire things up, use good wiring techniques, use good bundling and insure that all wiring is nicely bundled and secure from vibration.

If you pull wires to the bow area, it is not a bad idea to run a few extra, in case you want to have more accessories in that area. One thing that works well is to pull one or more sets of 4 wire trailer wiring harness through to the front of the boat to supply the bow area with the necessary circuits and wiring for anything in that area.

I would suggest that you do not have any inline fuses. Only have the dash mounted fuses or circuit breakers.
Inline fusees get lost, are sometimes hard to find, and the fuse holders themselves can often cause problems with the electrical circuits.

Good luck
REW
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-11-2011, 10:53 PM
Broncosteven Broncosteven is offline
Minnow
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Spokane Washington.
Posts: 51
Default

REW,

Thanks for the idea. I was considering that, but good god is there a lot of wires in this thing. Far more than I had to deal with when I put efi in my early bronco. I did find a main culprit. The original owner ran the main battery wire through the bilge area. It was connected with a wire nut and tape. Since I had not been in that area I had not thought to look for a problem there. I reached in and grabbed the wire and about an inch broke off in my hand. That fixed the major problem. Now I still have no power to the ignition switch. Could that be caused by the safety switch on the throttle? I did switch it on and off twice when I first got it. Could that switch be bad? How do I replace that? Thanks again for the help.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-12-2011, 05:58 AM
northernbite northernbite is offline
Wallhanger
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Corry, Pa.,USA
Posts: 1,174
Default

What I did for my bow was run 8 ga. up front to a new fuse panal up front then you can run multiple circuits such as fish finder, electric anchor and just a 12 volt outlet. I would rewire the whole boat but thats me.

Paul
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-12-2011, 06:10 AM
Shellback's Avatar
Shellback Shellback is offline
Charter Member
 
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Wagontown, PA, USA.
Posts: 7,936
Default

The neutral safety switch usually just interrupts the starter circuit. You should still have power to the ignition switch. Most newer motors have a fuse on them to protect the ignition. Check for fuses on the engine. The motors wiring harness provides power for the ignition and gauges , and the boats wiring harness provides power to the accessories. Does your fuel gauge move when you turn the key on?
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 10-12-2011, 08:44 AM
REW REW is offline
Charter Member
 
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: .
Posts: 38,947
Default

Bronco,
You indicated that when you grabbed the main battery wire in the bilge, that a foot of it broke off in your hand.

From your description, it sounds like this wire is experiencing a fair amount of corrosion.

If you go a couple of feet forward or aft on that wire, is there any more corrosion, or black wire appearance under the insulation.

It is quite likely that that is the case. If so, it is a very good idea to replace the full length of this wire.

If you do replace this main battery wire, it would also be a good idea to get it up out of the bilge and run it high from back to front up under the gunnel where it will tend to be out of the moisture and potential corrosion.





------------------------
Boat battery wiring one oh one.
You basically have three more or less separate battery and electrical systems in your boat.
1. Main motor wiring and system. The main motor is connected to the two heavy battery wires to your starting battery. These two main wires are the electrical supply for the motor and its associated needs.
You will also have your motor cable harness running from the motor to the ignition switch. This entire system is self contained, needing power only from the two main motor electrical wires.

The ignition switch will generally have a safety interlock which prevents the ignition switch activation causing the starter on the motor to engage. It is necessary to always have the safety interlock engaged around the ignition switch to allow the engine to start.

Most motors will have a fuse somewhere on the motor that protects the electrical circuits of the motor itself. This fuse will be under the motors cowl in an inline fuse holder.

2. All of the pumps, lights and accessories will generally be run from the starting battery on a separate set of wires.
Hence the recommendation to run a pair of 8 gauge wires from the starting battery to the console area fuse and or circuit breaker area.
Then all lights, dash lights, accessories, pumps etc. will be powered from the fuse and or circuit breaker block at the console area.

3. Finally you will have your electrical trolling motor circuits - if you have an electrical trolling motor. This motor will be powered by its own batteries, or batteries. Normally nothing other than the trolling motor is powered from the trolling motor battery or batteries.

Finally, if your boat has an on board charger, it will likely have an AC power input feed that is used to power the on board charger. The on board charger will generally have output leads to power all of the batteries on the boat.

----------------------
One thing that sometimes happens in outdoor moist environments is something called "black wire corrosion". This is where uncoated copper wire turns black when subjected to a bit of moisture and dampness while also having a bit of electrical current running through the wires.

If you find that when you strip back insulation on a wire, that the wire is black under the insulation; it is really a good idea to replace the full length of the wire.

When you do any boat wiring, it is really a good idea to use only tinned insulated wire. The use of tinned insulated wire will prevent the formation of black wire corrosion and the need for early electrical wiring replacement:

http://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/

Unfortunately not too many manufacturers use tinned wire, but if you want good longevity, it is certainly the best solution to avoid wiring problems.

Good luck with your rig.

If you have any specific issues, just drop me an e-mail @
[email protected]

REW
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 10-16-2011, 08:35 PM
Broncosteven Broncosteven is offline
Minnow
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Spokane Washington.
Posts: 51
Default

Thanks for the help. I cut back all of the wire a ways and found no black wire. I did find the fuse was blown and the boat runs now. I re did all of the pump wires in the bilge also. It runs perfect. I took it out today for a first ride. Since I ran through everything, the boat ran great. No problems other than slightly stiff steering. Thanks for the tips and help!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
electrical , voltage , wiring , wiring harness

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:00 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2021 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.