Dedicated Electronics battery

[James F]

What would be a good battery and size to use for a gen 1 Helix 9si,and a Helix 7di?

[Ltrain]

Group 31, I use Duracell lead acid right now. Plan on upgrading to the AGM batteries when the time comes

[James F]

That's just for your graphs? That is what I intend to do for mine. I have noticed some parasitic draw down of my batteries, especially sharing other electrical devices, switch panels, live well, and such. I disconnected everything but the graphs,it made a huge difference in the clarity of what my graphs should look like. I'm not big on the so called house battery deal. It creates too much interference. But I also don't want too much weight from all the batteries. I have learned a few things from various sources about the displayed demo's and how those images are created.
People are not going to be happy with this, but the name of the game is sales. So a clearer image means not having anything else connected with the graphs. I struggled with this for a while, until I a marketing engineer showed me how those magnificent pics were made.
Now to find the best battery,size and weight. Smaller the better.

[Wallike]

Why not make the jump to Lithium?

[DW]

Check your specs for the actual draw of each device. The 7” is about 0.8 amps and the 9 is about 2 amps. If so, 3 amp draw is well served by a group 21 for a 12 hour day on the water. Its pointless to go bigger than you actually need, so do the calcs and avoid excess weight in your boat. Size your battery for a calculated draw no more than 50% of battery capacity.

Edit: The biggest power hog typically is the livewell pump. Draw can be significantly reduced with a timer. Livewell pumps are most often wired to the cranking battery potentially risking starting. Another strategy is moving the livewell pump circuit to your added electronics battery. If you go this route redo you calculations and size accordingly. A livewell pump typically draws about 3 amps.

[James F]

I have given Lithium some thought. But, I'm not sure if I would need a different charger. I have the 345pc, and some say that is good for Lithium.

[Ozark Bob]

Originally Posted by James F

I have given Lithium some thought. But, I'm not sure if I would need a different charger. I have the 345pc, and some say that is good for Lithium.

The PC series set to "AGM" are ok with all the Lithiums I am aware of but as always, Ask the people who warranty your battery. Bob

[James F]

Thanks. I'll search for batteries, and what I will need. Like most I probably need be simple, or I will over think about it and get confused.

[Wallike]

Originally Posted by James F

I have given Lithium some thought. But, I'm not sure if I would need a different charger. I have the 345pc, and some say that is good for Lithium.

I'm running a 36 V TM and have my electronics tapped off each one of them and get interference and unbalanced charge capacities. My group 27 batteries weigh 59 lbs. each...the 50 AH Lithium I'm looking at are 17 lbs. each. Lithium, I've researched last so much longer and have quite a nice warranty. And several of the companies I've looked at have a battery/charger package. I'm jumping to the 21st century battery type here soon!

[BKfishing]

As another said, find out how many amps each device is using. Then decide how many hours or days you will need before charging and then choose a AH battery based on that info.

Lithium batteries in the 30AH range will be around $200, weigh around 6-9lbs and most come with a charger. Many ice fishermen are buying these since they are so light for how much AH they carry.

A lead 24, 27 or 31 will be cheaper but in the range of +40lbs.