First boat purchase ever. Could use some advice

[rdiddy]

Originally Posted by rebelrn2001

Didn’t read all the posts but I ALWAYS have to add a 3rd cleat midship (at least it’s the case for both Lund and Crestliner). I run a tiller so not sure about how console boats are rigged but the bow cleat is always too far forward to adequately protect the mid part of the boat.

Thanks for that info, I'll pay close attention to that when I get my boat

[mikear]

Originally Posted by rdiddy

Yeah all of your post sums up one of the main reasons I wanted to rig my own stuff. I have been watching rigging videos on youtube and I wanted to go with a bullet proof setup so I don't run in to issues down the road... big thick cabling, solid batteries, 36v over a 24v setup, etc.


These are the current battery chargers Lund offers:


2 Bank Recreational Series On-Board Battery Charger $320
3 Bank Recreational Series On-Board Battery Charger $447


Is there a certain amperage rating for battery chargers that is too much? I had thought I previously read you don't want a super high amp battery charger as it may lessen the life expectancy of your battery - in other words, a slow and low approach to charging batteries is desirable?


Thanks for your feedback

Not in my experience. The smart chargers will stage the charge cycle in at least 3 stages and not damage the battery (unless they were to malfunction).

Bulk: Maximum charger current is applied to the battery, slowly increasing its voltage until the battery is approximately 75% charged (based on type of battery). All the while compensating output voltage for terminal temperature of the battery.


Absorption: current tapers down while voltage is held constant.

Float: charges the battery at a reduced voltage and will eventually stop charging, monitor battery voltage, and resume float charging when voltage dictates.

I leave my charger plugged in 24/7 all year while not in the boat. I’ve yet to have any issues. Good battery maintenance on flooded batteries is always a good practice.

[rdiddy]

Originally Posted by Snowking

Jeeps are on the light side for breaking.

I appreciate the feedback. I looked up total weight of an 1875 impact XS, with boat, motor and trailer they weigh 2669 pounds. I would doubt that this weight rating includes fuel or gear etc. I have to look more into this.


One thing I do know is that my specific model of wrangler I bought has an upgraded / upsized brake package in it... and I am not opposed to getting trailer brakes as well.


If a tandem trailer would push me over my weight capacity, that obviously would be an issue.


I was likely going to go with a galvanized trailer anyway, I'm not overly concerned with the looks of it. I understand they are not the prettiest things.


I didn't know the Lund was discontinuing offering any honda outboards on their boat packages. The last I checked, Honda's were still available on the boat builds. When is this removal going to take place?


Thanks!

[rdiddy]

Originally Posted by Snowking

Might have missed someone explaining wavepro or smooth moves. They are different brand suspension systems for your boat seats. Shock absorbers that really save your back when you hit that unexpected wave. If you search you will easily find the websites.

Thanks I will look into those! So you would opt to purchase and install third party seats as opposed to pro ride / air ride offerings straight from the manufacturer of the boat?


Thanks Snowking

[rdiddy]

Originally Posted by DW

Everything about boat design is trade offs and compromise.

You asked why do two similar boats have significant differences in HP ratings. The answer is primarily a matter of structural design most of which a buyer can’t see. A manufacturer is not likely to risk structural failure to over rate max HP.

One thing you will notice is as deadrise increases, max HP rating increases. More deadrise, the more seaworthy the craft.

I have a 17’ and have no remorse I didn’t go bigger. The reason is I tow 5 to 10k miles a year. If you tow a lot go small. If you live on a lake or tow little, then go bigger.

The most common max trailer axle capacity is 3,500 pounds. A 17’ with all the stuff is about the most boat you can carry with that axle and leave capacity for fuel baggage, groceries etc. A 18’ boat will require some compromise in what you carry in a boat with a 3,500# trailer axle.

I have towed my trailer about 80 to 90k miles and the carpeted bunks are nearly perfect condition. I would go with bunks unless you will launch/retrieve at primitive ramps.

I don’t prefer jump seats. They are good for cruising but not fishing. Most boats with jump seats have only one centered pedestal position on the rear deck for a seat. I don’t like that. I want two positions off center so that the rear deck has room for a seccond fisherman to use the rear deck if only occasionally. I want four movable seats so that when fishing there is a seat on both the rear and bow decks and two seats including the helm behind a walk thru.

A buyer should perform a weight capacity analysis before buying. Add up all the equipment, fuel and stuff, then subtract that from the boat rated capacity. After doing this, I find carrying more than one trolling battery on a 17 infringes on the passenger count so that only 1 or 2 people can be in the boat. This is important if you wish to conform to manufacturers specifications and use the boat for cruising or water sports. Use a combiner and leave the extra battery weight on shore.

Analyze the main motor weight. There are big differences in motor weight with equal HP rating.

You mentioned that you boat in rock infested waters. Consequently, take a hard look at the keel. Some are more stout than others. I have a significant welded keel that is like a solid beam which has saved my boat from significant damage the several times when I ran over rocks.

Thanks for those points of consideration... I will look into all of them. I have seen that deadrise term, but wasn't previously aware of it's impact on performance. Clearly I have more research to do.

[rdiddy]

Originally Posted by buckmaster7600

You’ll be over 3200#’s when you add batteries and a tank of gas. I have very little storage in my boat but I have way over 300lbs of stuff in it

People go over tow capacities but it’s not something I would do.

I think you should start looking at smaller boats or a different tow rig…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Understood, thanks for the math. Given that this will be my first trailering experience I agree erring on the side of caution is definitely advisable.

[rdiddy]

Originally Posted by mikear

Not in my experience. The smart chargers will stage the charge cycle in at least 3 stages and not damage the battery (unless they were to malfunction).

Bulk: Maximum charger current is applied to the battery, slowly increasing its voltage until the battery is approximately 75% charged (based on type of battery). All the while compensating output voltage for terminal temperature of the battery.


Absorption: current tapers down while voltage is held constant.

Float: charges the battery at a reduced voltage and will eventually stop charging, monitor battery voltage, and resume float charging when voltage dictates.

I leave my charger plugged in 24/7 all year while not in the boat. I’ve yet to have any issues. Good battery maintenance on flooded batteries is always a good practice.

Thanks for the education. So aside from the Minn Kota Precision charger you mentioned, are there other brands of battery minders that you like or are the MK models the go to?

[mikear]

Originally Posted by rdiddy

Thanks for the education. So aside from the Minn Kota Precision charger you mentioned, are there other brands of battery minders that you like or are the MK models the go to?

I have had Minn Kota with great luck on my last two boats, so can’t speak to other manufacturers. However, I do hear good things about the RealPro chargers, just not particularly the recreational series Lund utilizes. The professional series are supposed to be excellent chargers and are fully factory repairable, unlike a lot of other brands (Minn-Kota included). Plus, the pro series is available in higher amps/bank than the recreational series.

Technically I did have the factory Recreational series RealPro with my Lund, but removed it for a higher amp/bank charger within about 2 months of buying the boat. No issues with the charger, batteries just weren’t ready on the 2nd day after fishing hard the first day.

[Snowking]

You would not purchase third party seats with the wavepro or smooth moves. Just mount your Lund seats to them. I do have one of lunds pilot seats for the driver. I did have to get a different mounting plate from smooth moves for that. I like lunds pilot seats. Except I removed the inside arm rest. Found that was to much in the way. People seem to like wavepros more then smooth moves now. Except I like my smooth moves because they have height adjustment. So I can fine tune the height to just see over the windshield frame. I use Dual Pro 10 Amp/Bank Sportsman Series since 2014 with no issues. People have been posting about good luck with NOCO chargers. I would recommend 10 amp per bank for trolling battery chargers. I read multiple posts that Lund was not going to offer Honda’s starting with the 2022 modals. I do not think they have fully updated the website to 2022 boats yet. Taken out the Honda’s on the build a boat feature.

[rdiddy]

Originally Posted by Snowking

You would not purchase third party seats with the wavepro or smooth moves. Just mount your Lund seats to them. I do have one of lunds pilot seats for the driver. I did have to get a different mounting plate from smooth moves for that. I like lunds pilot seats. Except I removed the inside arm rest. Found that was to much in the way. People seem to like wavepros more then smooth moves now. Except I like my smooth moves because they have height adjustment. So I can fine tune the height to just see over the windshield frame. I use Dual Pro 10 Amp/Bank Sportsman Series since 2014 with no issues. People have been posting about good luck with NOCO chargers. I would recommend 10 amp per bank for trolling battery chargers. I read multiple posts that Lund was not going to offer Honda’s starting with the 2022 modals. I do not think they have fully updated the website to 2022 boats yet. Taken out the Honda’s on the build a boat feature.

Oh - I thought it was a complete replacement for the pedestal and seat. So you would opt for those pedestals rather than buy an air ride or pro ride set up from the manufacturer? Are they that much better?

Thanks for the recommendation on the charger brand. I am strongly leaning toward buying individual components of my own choosing and rigging things myself... I still can't understand why buying a minn kota trolling motor directly from lund coupled with a purchase of a boat is more expensive than buying it on my own from a separate retailer. Same with a fish finder.