Perko shut off battery switch

[DW]

Originally Posted by last chance

yes, I would install a combiner so the batteries charged equally. but then I would still install a Perko battery switch so you don't end up with 2 dead batteries and stranded 10 miles from the ramp. while fishing you want your electronics to run off the house battery. then if your motor doesn't start you just switch to the starting battery. then switch to both batteries to charge and the combiner won't keep charging the full starting battery but would divert all power to the house battery.

one four bank charger.

I don’t think your use of a switch is the best choice. It works ok until it doesn’t. Using a manual switch introduces the possibility of human error.

Your claim that the combiner keeps charging the starting battery at the expense of not charging the house battery reflects a misunderstanding of how a combiner works. Your idea to use a perko switch to “both” makes all batteries one. Therefore the batteries will equalize and the crank battery will rapidly discharge as the house battery charges. This is exactly what should be avoided. The number one priority of battery management is to keep the crank battery charged.

A better idea is to ditch the perko switch. If you keep it, leave it connected to the crank battery only, and use a combiner by connecting the crank battery to the house battery. This will apply all alternator charging to the crank battery, and when charged, then divert all surplus current to charge the house battery. This is the optimum no-risk scenario keeping batteries charged to the maximum extent based on the output of the alternator. You can’t screw it up!

[DW]

Walleye 2487, Just because you have a simple system doesn’t mean you won’t benefit from a combiner or you can’t wreck your main engine charging system.

I dont know the Lund switch system, but turning your switch off while running the main engine will likely wreck the alternator and internal electronics. This is but one example of human error that can occur with a manual switch.

Use a combiner instead and your system will be optimized, and can’t make a mistake.

You should have a shore powered charger on your cranking battery. However, if you use a combiner the shore power charger serving the 24v system will also fully charge the crank battery.

[Walleye2487!]

DW what do you mean by a combiner?

[DW]

A combiner is wired inline between the positive terminals of the cranking battery and house and/or trolling batteries.

It is a voltage sensitive relay switch which automatically closes when the voltage reaches a prescribed voltage set by the manufacturer usually in the 13.3 to 13.6v range on either side of the relay. Thus, the relay does not close unless one battery is fully charged and charging. Typically, a charge is applied to the crank battery by the alternator. The crank battery is usually fully charged, and current flows into the second battery bank as needed and to the extent the alternator generates power. The crank battery cannot discharge through the combiner so you don’t lose starting capability.

Similarly if a charge is applied to your second battery bank, when that battery bank is fully charged the relay closes and charges the cranking battery. In your case that would allow charging the crank battery without buying another charger.

Combiners dont screw up. Humans operating manual switches can make mistakes. Besides being mistake proof, a combiner assures that any battery that needs charging receives a charge if the alternator or charger has the juice to deliver.

I have a combiner from Yandina.com. They are available for connection to 12, 24 and 36v house/trolling battery banks.

[Walleye2487!]

DW is this what your talking about ?

[DW]

Same in concept but but probably inferior to the Yandina and other quality voltage sensitive relays on the market.

I looked it up on Amazon and the reviews are not good.

A lesson in semantics. Historically, isolators and combiners (or voltage sensitive relays) were electronically different and isolators were inferior. Today, the terms are sometimes used interchangeably.

They all serve the same function. However, isolators cause a significant voltage reduction to the receiving battery. Voltage reduction causes the receiving battery to chronically under charge affecting performance and battery longevity.

I wouldn’t trust anything labeled isolator. In contrast a Yandina does not experience a voltage drop, has a large following in the boating biz and I have not read a bad review.

[Walleye2487!]

DW I have not come across what your talking about in amazon do you have a pic by chance you could show me?

[Marty59]

Originally Posted by Walleye2487!

DW I have not come across what your talking about in amazon do you have a pic by chance you could show me?

http://yandina.com/c100Info.htm

Marty

[DW]

This is the version for connection to a 24v battery bank: http://yandina.com/troll12X24info.htm

[Walleye2487!]

So will I not need a on board charger with with a combiner?