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  #11  
Old 07-28-2019, 06:53 AM
pjshorthorn pjshorthorn is offline
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Originally Posted by Hot Runr Guy View Post
I think Toyota does, based on their expertise with structural engineering,,,,,

HRG
Oh no you didnít ......

PjShorthorn
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  #12  
Old 07-28-2019, 06:56 AM
pjshorthorn pjshorthorn is offline
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Originally Posted by That Minnesota guy View Post
Little early in the day , but what the he77........................


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8b0kXQ4-bs
Now it appears that you may just be .......hmmmmmm, let me see........” tormenting the holier than thou crowd”.

PjShorthorn
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  #13  
Old 07-28-2019, 07:05 AM
pjshorthorn pjshorthorn is offline
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Default Add The Big Wheel !!!

Bobbly Head,

Just add the Big Wheel to your tag line of prolific equipment you have listed. It is the quickest way to ease your pain and for the rest of us to not have to watch your signature Bobbyís World video anymore. Címon Man........just man up and add it. You know you have a 1974 model tucked away in the garage with the rest of your toys. It has to be a blast to ride in the winter time being able to do the ultimate power slides in the snow.

Just do it !!!!.

I canít keep giving you this kind of free advice.

PjShorthorn
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  #14  
Old 07-28-2019, 02:02 PM
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CI_Guy CI_Guy is online now
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I use a wedge based on the advice of a lifelong friend that was an aluminum welder and fabricator for over 30 years. I've quoted him several times on WC over the years. He repaired lower units for several shops in the Twin City area. Most of the repairs were needed because of an impact with some underwater object, but every year he had a few caused transom saver bars. The vast majority of these were caused by OPERATOR ERROR. The little plastic nobs on the screws or the V shaped rubber boot that the motor rested on were worn out and there was metal to metal contact wearing a hole in the lower unit, or people trying to use the transom saver to keep the motor from swinging to one side and put to much downward pressure on the on the motor and road vibration would crack the housing. Another problem in his opinion was that the strap connected to the front of the boat pulls the boat forward but has very little downward pull. If you used a bar type saver he strongly recommended running a ratchet strap from the bow eye under the trailer frame to hold the bow of the boat down. Years ago I had him read one of the many transom saver debates on here, he said that the bouncing of motors you see going over train tracks and bumps has more to do with the bow moving up and down than the transom or motor. He thought that the spring loaded bar savers were the best option if you were going to use one.
I realize that there are people here that would rather find their daughter working in a cat house than see their son pull a boat down the road without a transom saver bar, but like the Ford/Chevy, Lowrance/Himminbird or Ginger/Maryanne debates this one will be back again and again..............
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  #15  
Old 07-28-2019, 05:24 PM
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Bobby Winds Bobby Winds is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CI_Guy View Post
I use a wedge based on the advice of a lifelong friend that was an aluminum welder and fabricator for over 30 years. I've quoted him several times on WC over the years. He repaired lower units for several shops in the Twin City area. Most of the repairs were needed because of an impact with some underwater object, but every year he had a few caused transom saver bars. The vast majority of these were caused by OPERATOR ERROR. The little plastic nobs on the screws or the V shaped rubber boot that the motor rested on were worn out and there was metal to metal contact wearing a hole in the lower unit, or people trying to use the transom saver to keep the motor from swinging to one side and put to much downward pressure on the on the motor and road vibration would crack the housing. Another problem in his opinion was that the strap connected to the front of the boat pulls the boat forward but has very little downward pull. If you used a bar type saver he strongly recommended running a ratchet strap from the bow eye under the trailer frame to hold the bow of the boat down. Years ago I had him read one of the many transom saver debates on here, he said that the bouncing of motors you see going over train tracks and bumps has more to do with the bow moving up and down than the transom or motor. He thought that the spring loaded bar savers were the best option if you were going to use one.
I realize that there are people here that would rather find their daughter working in a cat house than see their son pull a boat down the road without a transom saver bar, but like the Ford/Chevy, Lowrance/Himminbird or Ginger/Maryanne debates this one will be back again and again..............
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  #16  
Old 07-28-2019, 10:31 PM
Custom Eyes Custom Eyes is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CI_Guy View Post
I use a wedge based on the advice of a lifelong friend that was an aluminum welder and fabricator for over 30 years. I've quoted him several times on WC over the years. He repaired lower units for several shops in the Twin City area. Most of the repairs were needed because of an impact with some underwater object, but every year he had a few caused transom saver bars. The vast majority of these were caused by OPERATOR ERROR. The little plastic nobs on the screws or the V shaped rubber boot that the motor rested on were worn out and there was metal to metal contact wearing a hole in the lower unit, or people trying to use the transom saver to keep the motor from swinging to one side and put to much downward pressure on the on the motor and road vibration would crack the housing. Another problem in his opinion was that the strap connected to the front of the boat pulls the boat forward but has very little downward pull. If you used a bar type saver he strongly recommended running a ratchet strap from the bow eye under the trailer frame to hold the bow of the boat down. Years ago I had him read one of the many transom saver debates on here, he said that the bouncing of motors you see going over train tracks and bumps has more to do with the bow moving up and down than the transom or motor. He thought that the spring loaded bar savers were the best option if you were going to use one.
I realize that there are people here that would rather find their daughter working in a cat house than see their son pull a boat down the road without a transom saver bar, but like the Ford/Chevy, Lowrance/Himminbird or Ginger/Maryanne debates this one will be back again and again..............
So, in all that, nothing you stated was that transom savers themselves cause damage or are less effective than wedges. It was all "operator error", including improperly positioned boats on trailers (bow bouncing). It did get Bobby to bow to you though. Congrats! lol
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  #17  
Old 07-29-2019, 07:02 AM
DW DW is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CI_Guy View Post
I use a wedge based on the advice of a lifelong friend that was an aluminum welder and fabricator for over 30 years. I've quoted him several times on WC over the years. He repaired lower units for several shops in the Twin City area. Most of the repairs were needed because of an impact with some underwater object, but every year he had a few caused transom saver bars. The vast majority of these were caused by OPERATOR ERROR. The little plastic nobs on the screws or the V shaped rubber boot that the motor rested on were worn out and there was metal to metal contact wearing a hole in the lower unit, or people trying to use the transom saver to keep the motor from swinging to one side and put to much downward pressure on the on the motor and road vibration would crack the housing. Another problem in his opinion was that the strap connected to the front of the boat pulls the boat forward but has very little downward pull. If you used a bar type saver he strongly recommended running a ratchet strap from the bow eye under the trailer frame to hold the bow of the boat down. Years ago I had him read one of the many transom saver debates on here, he said that the bouncing of motors you see going over train tracks and bumps has more to do with the bow moving up and down than the transom or motor. He thought that the spring loaded bar savers were the best option if you were going to use one.
I realize that there are people here that would rather find their daughter working in a cat house than see their son pull a boat down the road without a transom saver bar, but like the Ford/Chevy, Lowrance/Himminbird or Ginger/Maryanne debates this one will be back again and again..............
I am probably the number one advocate for bar savers, and I agree with your friendís assessment. As an advocate, the number one message is that the boat and the sprung portion of the trailer should move as one. When moving as one, it is impossible to create damaging forces on the lower unit with a bar saver. With or without a bar saver, if there is movement between the boat and the sprung portion of the trailer there are multiple points where damage to the boat, and trailer may occur, and even transmit undesirable motion to the tow vehicle.

My rig came with an Atwood saver which has two rubber pads on a little bar on each side that pivot to conform to the shape of the lower unit. I have used this saver towing an estimated 80,000 miles. At 50,000 miles, I replaced the pads as they were too worn and eventually the metal screws and backing would have gouged the lower unit. To me, and a lot folks of average and above intelligence, replacing the pads is like replacing worn tires before they blow up. Yet some people on this forum think this takes extraordinary ability. All I say is if you canít handle this, sell your boat because there are far more challenging responsibilities of boat operation than properly fitting a bar saver.
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  #18  
Old 07-29-2019, 11:59 AM
Marty59 Marty59 is offline
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What's the consensus on these as transom savers? Other than the cost!

https://dd26fishing.com/shop?olsPage...-transom-saver

Marty
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