Suffix 832 Advanced lead core and Okuma CW203D

[walleyefan9]

To make a long story short, I had to order an Okuma CW 303D line counter reel, as nobody around here (3 different stores) had any Okuma CW reels in stock, other than the 500 series.

I fish strictly walleye. 30 to 35 feet max for trolling.

Question:

I ordered the reel, Okuma CW303D online, and Amazon delivered a CW203D instead.

I'm completely new to the the Okuma CW reels with line counter. First time trying to rig this way.

How many colors of Suffix 832 advanced leadcore 18 lb. line (already purchased a 100 yd. spool...10 colors) can I properly run on a CW203D reel, and will I be happy with this size reel trolling for walleye?

Yes, I can send it back, but it'll take another 10 days to get it here. I'm anxious to get out and try this new setup.

Thanks for any info.

My goal is to get 5 colors each on 2 reels so I have 2 identical trolling reels, both the same reel. Good enough for me. I fish alone 99% of the time. I wanted to try one setup before spending the money on another.

[muskyed]

I would think the 200 series should be fine, might actually be better than the 300 series. Just spool your leadcore on and see if it fits. When doing that, if it all fits, you can tie your backer on and reel it up till the spool is filled to where you like it and put a mark on the line. Spool the backer back up, and spool the lead core up. Then put the backer on your reel till the mark, attach the leadcore, reel it up and attach a leader of your choice. I use Willis knots, I think that's what they are called , for mono to leadcore. Simple and will never come undone. You just need to strip about 6" of leadcore out, and feed your mono up the sheath. Put a loose not in the sheath first though.

[walleyefan9]

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, I was planning on using the same knot to tie on the backer, and to tie on a 10' leader of fluorocarbon.

Thanks.

[Ozark Bob]

Two things, 203 will hold 5 colors with plenty of backing, The Willis knot will not work with many of the newer (thinner diameter) lines. There are many different knots that will work.( online video) Bob
NOTE: Make a note of how much backer you need to fill the reel for when you do the second setup

[Dave in Walker]

I do not know that reel, but remember every reel that you use with the linecounter will have to be calibrated, otherwise counter is unaccurate, many youtube videos on how to calibrate

[walleyefan9]

Well, after trying for 2 hours (I kid you not) to thread 12 lb. backer mono through the sheath of the leadcore, with 6" of lead removed, I gave up and tied a double uni knot. I hope it works, or this experiment will be a failure. I pulled on it pretty hard, and it didn't budge, so we'll see.

[last chance]

Originally Posted by walleyefan9

Well, after trying for 2 hours (I kid you not) to thread 12 lb. backer mono through the sheath of the leadcore, with 6" of lead removed, I gave up and tied a double uni knot. I hope it works, or this experiment will be a failure. I pulled on it pretty hard, and it didn't budge, so we'll see.

the best way I know in your case where you have 2 reels to spool. take 1 reel spool the 5 colors on the reel. then tie on your backer and fill the reel with the backer taking note as to how much backer you used. cut the backer and tie the end of the backer to the other reel. now spool the backer and lead onto that reel, it should be full. now tie the backer to the empty reel and spool the amount of backer you used on the other reel then tie your lead to the backer and put the 5 colors on top. both reels will have the same amount of backer and 5 colors and be full. full doesn't mean ready to go over the sides. leave just a little space at the top.

I use the 17 Daiwa reels and love the small size. 4 of my sg17lca reels bit the dust this yr. I contacted tunasreeltroubles.com to get them repaired but was told they were too old. so I'm replacing them with the 203 reels. i just hope they hold 150' of 16 lb ande line and 300' of 65 lb power pro braid.

[andersaki]

Originally Posted by walleyefan9

Well, after trying for 2 hours (I kid you not) to thread 12 lb. backer mono through the sheath of the leadcore, with 6" of lead removed, I gave up and tied a double uni knot. I hope it works, or this experiment will be a failure. I pulled on it pretty hard, and it didn't budge, so we'll see.

Ya, tying a Willis knot with advanced lc is an exercise in frustration. The inner sheath diameter is just too small. I tie an overhang knot at the end of the leadcore with the lead IN the sheath, do not pull it tight at this time. Slip your backing through the overhang knot and tie a single uni knot. Snug up the overhang knot in the lc with a pliers and pull the uni knot tight against it. Snip off the tag ends and go fishing.

Mark

[Common Man]

I have 2 of the CW303D and they are pretty good reels. Nice drags but watch the clicker. If you get hung up trolling at 2.5+ MPH and you have the clicker turned on it may come apart... both of mine did. If you take the side panel off you can put them back together and it should be fine until the next time you get hung up.

I can easily get 7 colors with backing on the 303 model so I would think you will be fine with 5 colors.

[walleyefan9]

To complete this thread for anyone reading in the future, I used 12 lb. suffix mono backer, and 5 colors of advanced 18 lb. lead core (Suffix 832) on both of my CW203D reels. It took 200 feet of mono to fill the spool, and there is no way in **** I'm ever going to try again to get the mono inside the sheath of the leadcore for a Willis knot. I broke of 6" of lead, and tied a double uni-knot for the mono-leadcore connection, and I used a 10' 10 lb. fluorocarbon leader on both ends, and used the same knot on both. So far, they are holding pretty strong as I attempted to reel in bumper on my Ram 2500 cummins diesel.

I'll know if this works in action next week when I get up north, on a lake.

Thanks for the knowledge and assistance.

Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but in the past, on Lake Michigan fishing salmon, we always set the reels open with the clicker/drag set to just prevent the line from going out. When a fish hit, the clicker would sing out, and when I started to reel in the fish, the spool/drag would close, and there was never an issue with snags destroying a setup.

Am I missing something? It's been 20 years since my FIL passed, and that was the last time I trolled this way.