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  #1  
Old 06-08-2021, 07:47 AM
REELMAN REELMAN is offline
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Default Troll bridge 36

Anyone ever use one of these Troll bridge?
Interesting product from what I have read. just looking for some first hand usage.

thanks
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  #2  
Old 06-08-2021, 10:46 AM
jjy jjy is offline
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I looked into trollbridge and ended up purchasing the minn kota dc to dc charger. It seems with the trollbridge, you can't have main motor running while trolling motor is on. That's a problem for me. I've only used the minn kota dc to dc 3 bank unit two trips so far. The unit seems to charge batteries around 2.5 amps while idling and 4.5 to 7 amps around 3000-4000 rpm. I haven't ran above 4000 rpm yet but plan to run and test at max rpm this weekend.
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Old 06-08-2021, 08:19 PM
tandm tandm is offline
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I installed a Trollbridge 24 three years ago. It has been troublefree and does a very good job of keeping my trolling batteries charged. I see nothing in my literature about not running the trolling motor and the main motor at the same time. I have run my main motor at fast idle several times to recharge the trolling batteries, after several days of short travel and heavy trolling motor usage. I added a voltage meter to my system to, more closely, monitor battery condition. I motor in to an outpost cabin, twice a year, for a week's fishing and no longer take a standby generator for charging.
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Old 06-09-2021, 08:40 AM
jjy jjy is offline
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Read the manual. You have to push what they call remote button everytime you want to run main motor and trolling motor at same time. Myself, I often have to run main motor in strong current or wind/waves and be on trolling motor to hold position before I can turn off main motor. I am curious how many more amps output the troll bridge can deliver vs the minn kota charger. My calculations show around 15-18% more current for troll bridge. Victron also sells some nice dc to dc chargers. With the Victron, you'd also need their battery isolator depending on number of banks you have. I think all these products can work well. The main limiting factor is alternator output, how much surplus do you have.
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  #5  
Old 06-09-2021, 04:19 PM
DW DW is online now
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I have advocated use of the Yandina combiner over a Minnkota DC to DC because they are rated to divert more amps. The Trollbridge 36, for example, is rated for alternators up to 100 amps. The C100 single bank is rated up up to 100 amps.

The Yandinas do not require switches although they can be wired with a switch. The beauty of of this type of combiner is that no switch is necessary. An operator canít screw it up. If battery connections require a switch potential for operator error increases with dire consequences.
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Old 06-09-2021, 07:59 PM
jjy jjy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DW View Post
I have advocated use of the Yandina combiner over a Minnkota DC to DC because they are rated to divert more amps. The Trollbridge 36, for example, is rated for alternators up to 100 amps. The C100 single bank is rated up up to 100 amps.

The Yandinas do not require switches although they can be wired with a switch. The beauty of of this type of combiner is that no switch is necessary. An operator can’t screw it up. If battery connections require a switch potential for operator error increases with dire consequences.
A switch is necessary if you want to run main motor and trolling motor according to manual. If you don't run main and electric, trollbridge will switch off when main battery is below 13v automatically. The 100 amp rating for most outboard applications is pointless in my opinion. You do not have 100 amps available from alternator to charge trolling motor batteries. The outboard motor and other devices connected to main battery will consume a lot of the alternators current. You probably have at most 15-30 amps available to charge batteries pending rpm. For 3 batteries, that's like 7-10 amps per battery pending each batteries resistance. I am not knocking the trollbridge but I find it hard to believe it outputs a current level higher than 10-15 amps per battery. I'd like to see a measurement if someone has a trollbridge.
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  #7  
Old 06-11-2021, 07:44 PM
jjy jjy is offline
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At higher rpms, say over 4000, I am seeing 7 to 9.7 amps output per bank on my 3 bank minn kota charger. Any troll bridge users with data? I attached a short log from one of my 3 batteries.
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Old 06-12-2021, 04:14 PM
DW DW is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjy View Post
A switch is necessary if you want to run main motor and trolling motor according to manual. If you don't run main and electric, trollbridge will switch off when main battery is below 13v automatically. The 100 amp rating for most outboard applications is pointless in my opinion. You do not have 100 amps available from alternator to charge trolling motor batteries. The outboard motor and other devices connected to main battery will consume a lot of the alternators current. You probably have at most 15-30 amps available to charge batteries pending rpm. For 3 batteries, that's like 7-10 amps per battery pending each batteries resistance. I am not knocking the trollbridge but I find it hard to believe it outputs a current level higher than 10-15 amps per battery. I'd like to see a measurement if someone has a trollbridge.
Something is odd about your setup. The trollbridge instructions say you have to stop the main (i.e., stop the DC input to the cranking battery) for the 36v battery trolling bank to work. See http://yandina.com/acrobats/Trollbridge36.pdf Your description is exactly the opposite the instructions. Further, the instructions say that no switch is necessary. The combiner is a switch.

You need big amps from the main alternator to beat the Minnkota DC charger in a 36v bank. On a midsize outboard figure at least 10 amps consumption by the main motor. So if you have a 60 amp alternator or larger, and donít consume a lot of amps for electronics and livewell, you should see the trollbridge outperform the MK.
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Old 06-14-2021, 09:26 AM
jjy jjy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DW View Post
Something is odd about your setup. The trollbridge instructions say you have to stop the main (i.e., stop the DC input to the cranking battery) for the 36v battery trolling bank to work. See http://yandina.com/acrobats/Trollbridge36.pdf Your description is exactly the opposite the instructions. Further, the instructions say that no switch is necessary. The combiner is a switch.

You need big amps from the main alternator to beat the Minnkota DC charger in a 36v bank. On a midsize outboard figure at least 10 amps consumption by the main motor. So if you have a 60 amp alternator or larger, and donít consume a lot of amps for electronics and livewell, you should see the trollbridge outperform the MK.
Yes, I understand the trollbridge is a switch that changes 3 batteries from series to parallel for charging automatically. You need a switch to tell the troll bridge to disconnect the parallel connection when you want to run main motor and electric. You don't need that switch if you do not run both at same time. The trollbridge will automatically change from parallel to series connection when voltage drops below 13v. I'm still questioning how many more amps a troll bridge will give vs a minn kota charger. As I stated above, maybe 10-20% more. I don't believe the advertising of any device unless I can see the measurements. If anyone out there has a troll bridge, please provide what charging currents you see.
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