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  #1  
Old 01-13-2013, 01:04 PM
ImpactFishing ImpactFishing is offline
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Default The Trolling Rundown

Hello everyone, I have decided to learn how to troll for 2013. I think I have everything down, but I wanted to go through the rundown of setting planer boards. Thanks in advance!

Can someone tell me if my rundown is correct?
1. Set your linecounter to zero.
2. Let your line out the the desired length
3. Attach planer board to line then set linecounter to zero again so you know how far out the planer board is.
4. let out planer board to desired length away from the boat.
5. Troll away!

Now here are some trolling questions I have:

If I am running four boards (2 on each side) and I hook a fish on the outside board, how do I get the fish to the boat without tangling lines with the inside board?

When I am reeling in a fish, do I put the engine in neutral, or keep running at the same speed?

What is the purpose of the clicker on the reel, and when should I be using it?

I also have some equipment questions:

Should I use 10 or 12 lb mono to troll with? I am hesitant on 12lb because then I would have to convert all the lure dive charts to 12lb. Is all that work really worth it for 12lb line?

Does anyone know good rod holders for the Lund sportrak system? I already have two but I am looking for some new ones.

Thanks helping out in my adventure of learning to troll!
-ImpactFishing
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  #2  
Old 01-13-2013, 01:22 PM
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Mpower Mpower is offline
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Your process is essentially correct. Couple tips...turn the click off when running the crank out, turn it back on when running the board out. I don't reset the counter for the board.

Keep the boat in gear in most cases, unless unsafe to do so.

If the outside board gets hit, you can open the bail on the inside line and start reeling the fish in once the inside board runs past the outside. In most cases, the fish will run to the back of the boat, guide them there, and you don't have to worry about the inside board.
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:24 PM
JJ Scully JJ Scully is offline
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I will start with the standard reply that I give when someone wants to learn planner boards. Get in a boat with someone who has done it before. You can learn more in a day of doing it than you will believe. Some of what you have to do just doesn't seem right untill you do it a few time.

Now to your questions. I don't reset the counter when I let the board out you will be able to see how far away from the boat you need to let the board out and it changes based on conditions. This also allows you to know how much line is left out when you are reeling in a fish.

If you hook a fish on the outside board there are a couple of things you can do.
1- reel in the inside line to get it out of the way
2- reel the inside line to the board and put it in splash well and let the line trail the boat
3- let the outside line fall back behind the inside and pull the fish in up the middle
4- move to the bow of the boat and pull the fish in around the inside board.
which one will depend on conditions

using the clicker is one of those things that someone can show you and it makes sense. If you put the clicker on you can put the rod in a holder and set right it will play itself out to the side of the boat while you set the next rod. It will also warn you if a fish starts taking line while the rod is in the holder.

For mono I use Trilene Big Game and the 12lb is the same diameter as the 10xt used in the trolling bible.
But the precision trolling book is just to get you close I use 15lb big game but fish on the great lakes.
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  #4  
Old 01-13-2013, 01:32 PM
nitecrawler128 nitecrawler128 is offline
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You'll get lots of good tips on this... lots of experience on this website. Personally, I skip your step 3. Here are some of my personal opinions... If you want to use 12#, go ahead. Yes, it will have some impact on your dive curve, but much trolling success is finding a key depth and REPEATING that same successful number on your line counter. Knowing what depth your running to the nearest inch is not near as important to me as knowing how many feet of line I had out when I caught the last one so I can duplicate that presentation for continued bites. There may be instances where you're fishing "bottom huggers" and you want to know where to put your bait, but experience on the water and knowing your equipment will help you more with that than a dive curve will.
As far as clearing boards, if I'm fishing 2 oz bouncers (spinners) at 1mph and get a big fish on the outside board that's taking your board back at a fast rate, I don't even bother clearing the inside board. If you're fishing cranks 60-100 feet back behind all boards at 2mph, I'd reccommend clearing the board... the mess of tangles that can happen just aren't worth not taking the time to clear the board for that 1 fish. When fishing multiple lines, I don't slow down to catch fish, unless I think the fish is going to be over 10#'s... I've stopped the motor completely to boat large fish. Again, these are just some of my opinions, you'll get more. Have fun!
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:54 PM
ImpactFishing ImpactFishing is offline
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Thanks for the replys so far!
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:59 PM
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eyeboom eyeboom is offline
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Regarding clearing lines, as a beginner you may want to bring in the inside board if you have a fish on the outside. What we do, especially when running 3 or more boards a side is the following:

We always run the longest leads on the outside boards

Say you have a fish on an outside board, keep pressure on that line and turn the boat to the opposite direction. What this wil do is move that board to the "hole" behind the boat effectively clearing the other boards. Fish will generally move up in the water column when hooked also. The advantage is that it's much easier than bringing in the other lines on that side and it leaves more baits in the water increasing your odds of catching more fish.




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  #7  
Old 01-13-2013, 03:01 PM
Max Power
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Never heard of anyone resetting the counter after attaching the board. As I'm unhooking the board, I always ask the guy reeling in the fish what the counter says so I can put it right back in the same place after the fish is unhooked. Sometimes you forget what the leads for each rod are when you're fishing 4, 6, or 8 rigs.
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Old 01-13-2013, 03:50 PM
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KoolBreeze KoolBreeze is offline
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ImpactFishing, Don't let the #test of your line mislead you. When the trolling book was conceived, they had to pick a standard to run all of the curves. They chose a 10# mono with a diameter of .0134". That diameter is the key number to think of when comparing other lines. For instance, I use Berkley Sensation with a # test of 14, but it has the same diameter as the book standard, so I can use the dive curve without any corrections. Sunline is another example. It is 16# line with the same diameter as the standard 10# mono. In the Trolling book, there is a conversion chart showing the +/- to add if you do drift away from the .0134" standard. In most cases, it's only a foot or two difference.
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:01 PM
*1fisherman *1fisherman is offline
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There are going to be a couple of walleye schools this spring on Lake Erie that seems reasonabley priced. I'm told a huge emphasis will be on trolling technique, line counters, electronics and more. You may want to look into one. I know I am
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:20 AM
Walizz 1 Walizz 1 is offline
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You're getting some good info here. I've tried to stop using the clicker while letting boards out after having a few Daiwa 27's repaired due to the clicker breaking down. When letting the board out, just back off on the drag and reset it once the board is in the desired place. Good luck to you.
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