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#11
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i've always crimped. just because I'm not any good at soldering. now I like to use connectors that use shrink tubing to seal them after I crimp. either one works but most people either cant solder or just don't want to spend the time it takes to solder. but like said earlier use tinned marine wire. you can get it at amazon.com and it is a little more money but a investment well worth the extra money.
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#12
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To add to this discussion, I remembered about these waterproof solder wire connectors. No crimping and no soldering irons required.
https://wirefyshop.com/products/sold...21193546006607 |
#13
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Quote:
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#14
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As others have suggested, soldering a connection causes solder to wick up the wire and turn it into a solid wire that may be later subject to vibration failure.
Also, a very good method is to use tinned wire and then use insulated connectors and use the correct crimping tool to crimp all connections and call it a day. If one is going to use an insulated connector, be sure to use the correct crimping tool that crimps the insulation along with the connector and does not CUT the insulation. If one uses one of the inexpensive type crimpers that has points on the crimper that works great for uninsulated connectors, put perforates the insulation if used on an insulated connector. So, if using an insulated connector (a good idea), then use the correct crimper that will properly crimp the connector and insulation without harming the insulation. One example of a good tool to use with insulated connectors: https://www.amazon.com/Crimping-Tool.../dp/B07GFLWKTT |
#15
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this sounds like the best way, of course use marine grade heatshrink and run wires in a protective plastic slip-on sheathing (for long runs)
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#16
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In the past, I removed the insulation from the crimps, then crimped, soldered, and covered it with shrink wrap. This gave a mechanical bond in addition to the solder. I recently bought a ratcheting crimper that is specifically designed for heat shrink terminals. This securely crimps the wires and takes less time than my old method. The thing about a ratcheting crimper is that they won't release (open up) until they have completed a proper crimp. So now it's crimp, and heat with the heat gun and it's done right. I think that for the most part, I am done soldering wires on my boat.
andersaki |
#17
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Most of those crimpers have an adjustment on them. Over time that will need to be tightened. Make sure you give a good tug to ensure that the connection is secure. Using different brands you may find small differences in connectors diameters and materials requiring adjustments one way or the other. Bob
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