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Spark Plugs in a Ford 3.5 Ecoboost - Page 2 - Walleye Message Central
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  #11  
Old 06-17-2021, 07:26 AM
SJC305 SJC305 is online now
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FordTechMakuloco has several videos on Youtube about 3.5L ecoboost spark plug changes, misfires and diagnoses. He recommends changing sparks plugs every 50,000 miles due to the high pressures with the ecoboost and how hard they are on spark plugs. I think the melting could also be inline with the carbon tracking on earlier engines, but I think they cleared that up. The older 3.5L video, he did replace the boot bottoms since they are only a few dollars per boot.

Overall, it seems like a pretty easy job and I wouldn't be afraid to do it myself. I did my 2014 5.0L twice without any issues. As mentioned, the old 5.4L was the main gremlin about snapping spark plugs off in the head due to their bad two piece design.
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  #12  
Old 06-17-2021, 08:42 AM
GBS GBS is online now
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Just had them done by my independent guy. 2012, 100,000 miles. Because I tow an RV, he strongly encouraged me to do it every 50K. My coil packs were shot also. Everything was about $250.
Made a world of difference, was getting about 15-16 highway. Now unloaded at 70 mph, getting 20-22, even with the 3.73 gears! Pay someone or pay with your time - it is worth doing.
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  #13  
Old 06-17-2021, 10:10 AM
rwl rwl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GBS View Post
Just had them done by my independent guy. 2012, 100,000 miles. Because I tow an RV, he strongly encouraged me to do it every 50K. My coil packs were shot also. Everything was about $250.
Made a world of difference, was getting about 15-16 highway. Now unloaded at 70 mph, getting 20-22, even with the 3.73 gears! Pay someone or pay with your time - it is worth doing.
Were you originally getting 20-22 at 70 MPH? My '12 with 3.73 gears would have never ever done that with the exception of a short downhill run.
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  #14  
Old 06-17-2021, 11:24 AM
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Dave in Walker Dave in Walker is offline
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Thanks for the advise and ideas, found a place here in Walker, $275, going to take a pass on bloody knuckles and possibly some frustration.
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  #15  
Old 06-17-2021, 11:59 AM
ToThe Woods ToThe Woods is offline
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Originally Posted by Aspencreek View Post
Want to REALLY be shocked and upset. Look at what your mechanic just charged you for a part and then look up what you could have purchased the part for on Rock Auto.com. I don't begrudge these guys making a profit, but charging me 3.7X what I could buy it for......not anymore!!
I was just quoted over $130 for a part not including labor that I can buy and easily replace myself for under $35.
I don't like cheap. You get what you pay for. From that you can tell I'm also not a Rock Auto fan either as most of their stuff is bottom shelf parts or Made in China. That is just a preference of mine and not a knock on Rock Auto or those that used it.


I worked in a garage as a kid. I know what the mark ups usually are. When you specify the parts to be used you also already know what the prices are. Not hard to negotiate the mark up on the parts if you know that info when they give you the quote. Truth be told I would love to use an $8 spark plug but the money saved in fuel economy with the more expensive plugs over the life of the plug is substantial.
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  #16  
Old 06-17-2021, 02:02 PM
Aspencreek Aspencreek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToThe Woods View Post
I don't like cheap. You get what you pay for. From that you can tell I'm also not a Rock Auto fan either as most of their stuff is bottom shelf parts or Made in China. That is just a preference of mine and not a knock on Rock Auto or those that used it.


I worked in a garage as a kid. I know what the mark ups usually are. When you specify the parts to be used you also already know what the prices are. Not hard to negotiate the mark up on the parts if you know that info when they give you the quote. Truth be told I would love to use an $8 spark plug but the money saved in fuel economy with the more expensive plugs over the life of the plug is substantial.
If you do your own work, where do you buy your parts? Because I am buying the SAME parts only I'm getting them online from Rock Auto and I get to pick the mnf of that part is. Because of what you wrote it is obvious you have never even tried to look at RockAuto.com.
The spark plugs I referred to were NGK a top line brand. A couple post after mine a gentlemen says he replaced his plugs with Motorcraft plugs for $50, that's under $10 per plug. A good friend of mine used to run an engine rebuilding shop before he retired, he still gets a 30% discount at the local NAPA, but still cannot beat the prices I get even after shipping, he now gets his parts from Rock too. I need to replace an O2 sensor, my former mechanic quoted me $130 for the part, I can get the same make part from Rock for $35, what would you do? I have the O2 socket, wrench and the PB Blaster.
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  #17  
Old 06-17-2021, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwl View Post
Were you originally getting 20-22 at 70 MPH? My '12 with 3.73 gears would have never ever done that with the exception of a short downhill run.
Nope, didn't get that even when new. Best was 19-20, with a tail wind!

Did a 4,000 mile tow after, and with my trailer, mpg went from 8-8.5 previously to 9.5-10. Literally a very happy camper. (I always run premium when towing).
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  #18  
Old 06-17-2021, 04:26 PM
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Bobby Winds Bobby Winds is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aspencreek View Post
If you do your own work, where do you buy your parts? Because I am buying the SAME parts only I'm getting them online from Rock Auto and I get to pick the mnf of that part is. Because of what you wrote it is obvious you have never even tried to look at RockAuto.com.
The spark plugs I referred to were NGK a top line brand. A couple post after mine a gentlemen says he replaced his plugs with Motorcraft plugs for $50, that's under $10 per plug. A good friend of mine used to run an engine rebuilding shop before he retired, he still gets a 30% discount at the local NAPA, but still cannot beat the prices I get even after shipping, he now gets his parts from Rock too. I need to replace an O2 sensor, my former mechanic quoted me $130 for the part, I can get the same make part from Rock for $35, what would you do? I have the O2 socket, wrench and the PB Blaster.
I concur 100% on Rockauto....I purchased plugs, air and cabin filters, LED bulbs, wheel speed sensor, brake pads, rotors plus belts for my Tundra and all parts were top of the line that saved me hundreds of dollars. They have several grades of parts for each part.....unlike the local part stores that might have only 2 brake pads or rotors. Just try to get slotted/drilled rotors for your truck....or even carbon metallic brake pads. I almost never go to a local parts store anymore.

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  #19  
Old 06-17-2021, 08:34 PM
dirty underpants dirty underpants is offline
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Another happy Rockauto fan. 40 minute drive 1 way for me to get to a parts store. If its not emergent, it gets delivered to my door in a couple days.

And yes, I get Motorcraft, A/C Delco, all the name brands if needed... all at competitive prices.

I will also add, when I took my Ford truck into the Ford dealer to have body damage repaired, I had to make a special phone call and spent 20 minutes on the phone with the manager to demand and make sure I got a genuine Ford Tailgate, and not some discounted Chinese stamped Steel.

It's a false sense of security thinking you're getting the best of the best name brand parts at a dealership.

As always, buyer beware.
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  #20  
Old 06-18-2021, 07:06 AM
REW REW is offline
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On most vehicles, if you read the shop manual, and have the correct tools, changing spark plugs are not too bad.

It was a few years ago and I helped a visitor change the plugs in his 8 cylinder F-250. I don't know what engine was in the truck.

All that I know is that for one bank, it took a bit over an hour to change the 4 plugs.

On the other bank, it took 2 - hours for the first 3 plugs and an additional 4 hours for the last plug.

At the end of the day, all of the plugs were changed correctly with all good parts and the vehicle worked perfectly. But, yes, there are some vehicles that are really difficult to change plug - even with wobble sockets, flex extensions, etc.

On many cross mounted 6 and 8 cylinder engines, it is necessary to remove engine mounts and use a hoist to rotate the engine to be able to get to the back plugs. Then, you have to be part magician, use lights and socket extensions to get to the plugs to change. In many cases, the actual removal of the plugs and replacement of the plugs is reasonably easy - AFTER the spark plug boot, wire, coil have been removed from the plug. Many times the work is in the boot removal rather than the actual plug removal.

But the mechanic's best friend when changing plugs is the CORRECT tool/s. With the correct tools, many of these difficult jobs become much easier.

I recall chatting with one of my friends years ago, who had to remove the fender liner and or fender itself on a couple of low slung cars to change the plugs in the big v-8s that were stuffed into really small spaces.

With my first motor home which had a Chevy V-8 in the vehicle, one bank of plugs were relatively easy to change. But, I had always let the shop change the plugs on the other bank. However, one day, I was working on changing plugs for a trip that we were starting the next day. I said to myself there may be a better way. The problem was access to the plugs on the drivers side of the vehicle. After checking looking and probing, I realized that there was an open slot above the vehicle frame and the inner fender well liner that was in line with the spark plugs.

So, after jacking up the vehicle, removing the driver side front tire and using a 5 foot long extension with a spark plug socket on the end, I was able to quickly change all 4 plugs. It was possible to get a hand down along the engine to remove and replace the plug wires. However, there was no room to maneuver a plug wrench in the limited space. But, once the vehicle was jacked up and supported with jack stands, and the plug wire removed, the 4 plugs were out and back in in under 10 minutes. Just another puzzle to solve.

With respect to Rock Auto - I agree with the comments. One - the price can be very low. Two - the parts can be complete junk. Three - but, in virtually every department, there are parts quality choices. Indeed, if you purchase the best quality parts that Rock Auto sells - for the most part the parts are of excellent quality and the service is quick. If you buy the best parts, the price is not so different than the local parts jobber or the dealer, if you have the wholesale discount from the dealer, and the quality if fine.

Best wishes.
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