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  #1  
Old 06-16-2019, 07:03 PM
SDfisher SDfisher is offline
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Default Cranks behind bottom bouncers

I have never pulled cranks before and was reading some people pull them behind a 3 way swivel and weight or a bottom bouncer. This seems like a easy/ cost effective way to get started into it. Does anyone do this and have some tips or info? What rapalas are used so they don’t dig into the bottom. Are they ran all the way at the bottom usually? What speeds are used? If speeds are same I’m assuming a person could run crawler harnesses on one side of the bot and cranks behind bottom bouncers on the other side? Any advice and info would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 06-16-2019, 09:24 PM
Kevin23 Kevin23 is offline
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I have not used bottom bouncers, I would imagine that would be a tiny bit too close to the bottom. We use 3 ways with a 2' dropper to the weight, then a 5' leader back to an original floating rapala. F7 or F9 usually. Anything else dives too deep and will get you hung or fill your hooks with gunk from the bottom. Even shallow husky jerks and x-raps dive too deep. Rogues are generally okay.

For weight, typically 2-3 ounces as you want it relatively straight down. Pencil type weight to keep snags to a minimum. You will run it with the weight just off the bottom, touching every once in a while is okay. Don't want it dragging.

I don't use this system in warm water, its fall-spring in the winter months. We pull at around 0.8-1.2 usually.


The easiest way to get into pulling cranks for walleye is to pick up a cheap line counter reel (size 15, 17, 20, 27) and fill it with 10lb trilene xt or 12lb big game (same diameter). Buy yourself a couple flicker shads and read the depth cure on the back, let out enough line to reach the depth you want and drive around the lake at 2mph.

Last edited by Kevin23; 06-16-2019 at 09:27 PM.
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  #3  
Old 06-17-2019, 05:27 AM
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Clairebear Clairebear is offline
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You don't have to run bottom bouncers on the bottom. Use them just the same as an inline sinker.
Out so many feet on your line counter for suspended fish.
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  #4  
Old 06-17-2019, 06:43 AM
pnnylfr pnnylfr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin23 View Post
I have not used bottom bouncers, I would imagine that would be a tiny bit too close to the bottom. We use 3 ways with a 2' dropper to the weight, then a 5' leader back to an original floating rapala. F7 or F9 usually. Anything else dives too deep and will get you hung or fill your hooks with gunk from the bottom. Even shallow husky jerks and x-raps dive too deep. Rogues are generally okay.

For weight, typically 2-3 ounces as you want it relatively straight down. Pencil type weight to keep snags to a minimum. You will run it with the weight just off the bottom, touching every once in a while is okay. Don't want it dragging.

I don't use this system in warm water, its fall-spring in the winter months. We pull at around 0.8-1.2 usually.


The easiest way to get into pulling cranks for walleye is to pick up a cheap line counter reel (size 15, 17, 20, 27) and fill it with 10lb trilene xt or 12lb big game (same diameter). Buy yourself a couple flicker shads and read the depth cure on the back, let out enough line to reach the depth you want and drive around the lake at 2mph.
This is one of the first systems I learned for trolling. Also do a search for "Wolf River Rig" and modify to fit your needs.
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  #5  
Old 06-17-2019, 06:53 AM
Misdirection Misdirection is online now
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We run shallow diving cranks like Renosky's Shallow Diver behind Dipsy's and True Trips very successfully. That helps manage to a known dive curve.

You can run them behind inline weights as well. I've never used them behind bottom bouncers, but I'm sure it would work.

It's all about getting the right presentation at the right depth and speed!

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
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  #6  
Old 06-17-2019, 11:15 AM
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Dumpster Fire Dumpster Fire is offline
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I've ran rapala perch colored F7's with great success on a 3 way bottom bouncing rig. My leaders are usually ~2' in length.
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  #7  
Old 06-18-2019, 08:48 AM
Wall-i-Lama Wall-i-Lama is offline
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Original Floating minnow F9

Watch fish finder and if fish are tight on bottom, we stay on the bottom. If they are suspended we bring them up a couple of cranks.

1 MPH to 1.5 MPH. We use 2 oz when shallower or slower and up to 3 oz when faster or deeper. If you prefer 2 1/2 oz works good all around.

We frequently run crawlers harness at the same time until we see what is working.

Generally, this is our go to method when the fish stop hitting the crawler harness. Where we go in Canada, using cranks behind a BB usually does well in mid July.

3 to 3 1/2 foot leader.

Fluorescent red (orange//gold) and purple descent are our favorite patterns.

Good luck!
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Old 06-18-2019, 11:57 AM
Burr Burr is offline
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A light pulling crank will do OK behind a bouncer. When moving to a crank that pulls harder, you end up with a mess.

It took me 2-3 minutes, took it off, and I only use 3 ways when to make that presentation now.

Go ahead, try it, and it will work fine for light pulling baits, just like it does for spinners. When the bait pulls harder, it's just a mess.
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  #9  
Old 06-18-2019, 02:47 PM
SDfisher SDfisher is offline
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After all the advice I think I will try the 3 way swivel route with a drop weight and a floating rapala. What determines your decision between the size 7 or 9? I fish mostly on the Missouri River. Anyone else have some color pattern suggestions? I’m thinking a mix of natural colors for clear water and some bright ones for the dirty water times.
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  #10  
Old 06-18-2019, 04:23 PM
Kevin23 Kevin23 is offline
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When the forage is bigger, fall is usually big bait time. But theres really not much difference between them. 7s are just the all around size.

Blue/silver, black/silver, clown or firetiger, and a purple/pink color will have you covered. I look at it as baitfish, chartreuses, and "hot colors" which are pinks and purples.
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