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  #81  
Old 09-22-2021, 06:07 PM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Originally Posted by FlyNorth View Post
If you are deciding on which options to get, make darn sure you get the drawers by the driver and passenger seat, these are low cost options that are worth their weight in gold! Also, same with the Stow n Go rod holder tubes on the sides.

FN

Definitely was already sold on the under console drawers, for sure



Are the stow and go rod tubes the same length as the bow rod locker, or do the port or starboard tubes end up being longer than the rod locker? thanks
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  #82  
Old 09-22-2021, 06:16 PM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Originally Posted by 320bull View Post
Lots of good information here. I can add from my experience with owning an 18 ft boat with a 150 on it. It was fiberglass but I don't see that making a difference here. I fished walleyes trolling with the boat mostly and it had a 24v terrova and it would do fine for a full day trolling at 1 to 1.5 mph with the wind. The batteries are heavy and take up allot of room. IMO a 36 volt system would be overkill not to mention another charging bank needed. Lots of additional cost and weight with 36v system.
I did not have a kicker on that boat and never felt like I needed one. Again more weight and cost if you don't really need it. My current boat has both the 36 volt and a kicker and it needs it. My 18 foot just didn't require it.
I have done both in regards to rigging and you will likely do a better job than the dealer would.
Also I strongly encourage you to do whatever it takes to get in the boat model you are interested in as well as a second pick. I drove a couple of hours each way twice to do this and it changed my mind on the last purchase. Best thing I could have done.

So the main takeaways from your post, to sum it up, are:


-36v trolling motors are never useful on an 1800 series boat
-a 24v electric trolling motor will double as a kicker


In which circumstances would a gas powered kicker motor be beneficial for trolling over the electric trolling motor? For a larger boat?


Thanks for the knowledge on not putting all my eggs in one basket. I will visit more than one dealer
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  #83  
Old 09-22-2021, 06:18 PM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Originally Posted by therealjoeblow View Post
If you factory order your electronics and trolling motor, you will get them with the boat as Lund has huge buying power and as far as I can see Humminbird pretty much ships everything they have there first. Then to dealers and retailers in the US. And lastly to dealers and retailers in Canada. Many of their most popular products have been vapourware and perpetually back-ordered here in Canada since last October (Terrova 80lb 60" iPilot Link; Helix 9 MSI+, etc). So you will be sadly disappointed in waiting forever for these to be available. I would just bite the bullet and get them factory installed.

Also on the boat builder pricing... it's a guide only. You really need to go see a couple of dealers and get competetive quotes. And note that the prices do NOT convert directly from the boat builder pricing which is in USD to CAD using market currency conversion. The CAD to USD conversion rate is currently 0.79, but when I ordered my boat (Lund Adventure 1775 Sport) a few months ago and compared the printout of the boat builder options and pricing to the Canadian price build sheet the dealers gave me, the conversion on the pricing for each line item was between 0.65-0.68, so a lot more in CAD than a simple currency conversion. But then after everything tallies up on the build sheet to the "retail" price total, the dealers all make their own decision on how much to cut as a "dealer adjustment" to actually sell the boat for. This is where they factor in their profit margin, and the 3 final quotes I got ranged from 10-20% off of the raw total. So you need to factor that bit of confusion into your final pricing on the options and electronics as well.

Example, if the Boat Builder pricing totals $50k USD "Your Price", then you need to divide that by approx 0.67 to get $74.6k CAD as the total base price on the Canadian build sheet (NOT $63.3k which you would expect with a simple currency conversion at 0.79), then take $7-14k off of that in CAD for what the dealer will sell to you, and expect to pay somewhere between $60 and $67k CAD plus taxes. Obviously try to find one who is less greedy and is closer to the 20% off than the 10% or less.

Cheers

This is an interesting post, thanks for the localized information. Can I PM you with some follow up questions, if you have time?


Thanks
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  #84  
Old 09-22-2021, 07:21 PM
therealjoeblow therealjoeblow is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdiddy View Post
This is an interesting post, thanks for the localized information. Can I PM you with some follow up questions, if you have time?


Thanks
Sure, PM away.
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  #85  
Old 09-22-2021, 08:17 PM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Can anyone explain the difference between these two trolling motors, specifically the US2 (universal sonar 2) designation?


Minn Kota Ulterra 80lbs/60"/24V/MSI iPilot Link - Bow Mount $3,654
Minn Kota Ulterra 80lbs/60"/24V/US2 iPilot - Bow Mount $2,813


Any of the electric trolling motors listed as options on the Lund boat build page either have side imaging/down imaging, or US2... this is confusing to me as I understood MSI or MDI to be fish finder technology. I do understand that your trolling motor can have an onboard transducer, but how is that negated by this US2 feature?


Thanks
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  #86  
Old 09-22-2021, 08:51 PM
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FlyNorth FlyNorth is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdiddy View Post
Definitely was already sold on the under console drawers, for sure



Are the stow and go rod tubes the same length as the bow rod locker, or do the port or starboard tubes end up being longer than the rod locker? thanks
Iím almost sure you will be able to carry longer rods in the Stow n Go, almost sure.

FN
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  #87  
Old 09-22-2021, 09:04 PM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyNorth View Post
Iím almost sure you will be able to carry longer rods in the Stow n Go, almost sure.

FN

Thanks man, that's a huge plus for me
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  #88  
Old 09-22-2021, 09:57 PM
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ltrain ltrain is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdiddy View Post
So the main takeaways from your post, to sum it up, are:


-36v trolling motors are never useful on an 1800 series boat
-a 24v electric trolling motor will double as a kicker


In which circumstances would a gas powered kicker motor be beneficial for trolling over the electric trolling motor? For a larger boat?


Thanks for the knowledge on not putting all my eggs in one basket. I will visit more than one dealer

I disagree with everything in that statement, lol


I found my 36v moor invaluable on my 18 ft Lund. With a 36v you can have way more power and hve longer runtimes
Vs the 24v counterpart. I've never been on big water and wished I had less power, never.


A 24v or 36v for that matter can never double as a kicker. A kicker can get you back to port if you are miles out in bad conditions if your main fails. Also a bow mount doesn't have the power to troll against a big chop for any amount of time.



The best system to use is to have a kicker and a bow mount trolling motor. Lock the kicker straight, use it for 75% thrust and use the bow mount to steer , providing the remaining 25% thrust. You'll be able to troll all day at any speed you need.
__________________
2021 Angler Qwest 822 Pro Fish n Cruise
2005 Yamaha f150
2020 Tohatsu 9.9 efi w/Trollmaster
Minn kota 72" 112lb 36v Terrova
Lowrance Carbon 16
Lowrance HDS Carbon 12
Lowrance autopilot
Navico Precision-9
Simrad is40
Sonarhub
Lowrance 3in1 and HDI
Airmar tm150
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Last edited by ltrain; 09-22-2021 at 10:32 PM.
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  #89  
Old 09-22-2021, 11:30 PM
buckmaster7600 buckmaster7600 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltrain View Post
I disagree with everything in that statement, lol


I found my 36v moor invaluable on my 18 ft Lund. With a 36v you can have way more power and hve longer runtimes
Vs the 24v counterpart. I've never been on big water and wished I had less power, never.


A 24v or 36v for that matter can never double as a kicker. A kicker can get you back to port if you are miles out in bad conditions if your main fails. Also a bow mount doesn't have the power to troll against a big chop for any amount of time.



The best system to use is to have a kicker and a bow mount trolling motor. Lock the kicker straight, use it for 75% thrust and use the bow mount to steer , providing the remaining 25% thrust. You'll be able to troll all day at any speed you need.

I have a 20ft tiller but I agree with everything here. When I went back to a tiller I Tried going without a kicker and only made it a couple trips until I put the kicker on.

I went 36 volt and on rough days Iíve had it down pretty low, would have had to quit with 24 volt.

Locking kicker straight and using trolling motor as autopilot/ speed control is amazing!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  #90  
Old 09-22-2021, 11:35 PM
Waxy Waxy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltrain View Post
I disagree with everything in that statement, lol

I found my 36v moor invaluable on my 18 ft Lund. With a 36v you can have way more power and hve longer runtimes
Vs the 24v counterpart. I've never been on big water and wished I had less power, never.

A 24v or 36v for that matter can never double as a kicker. A kicker can get you back to port if you are miles out in bad conditions if your main fails. Also a bow mount doesn't have the power to troll against a big chop for any amount of time.

The best system to use is to have a kicker and a bow mount trolling motor. Lock the kicker straight, use it for 75% thrust and use the bow mount to steer , providing the remaining 25% thrust. You'll be able to troll all day at any speed you need.
X3 on this.

Very sound advice.

Waxy
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