bought a boat and have a few questions

[gunner76]

Bought a new to me boat and have a few questions on some things the owner informed me about. Boat is a 2003 Crestliner FishHawk 1650 that is in pretty good shape for it's age, it's not perfect but not abused either. Here's what I know that needs to be addressed.


1. The tach and speedometer quit working a while back. Where would you start looking for possible issues? I forgot to ask the owner if it quit last time he had the impeller changed that might indicate the speedometer cable wasn't hooked back up but could call him and pick his brain on that. Or maybe it's just a bad connection. The other gauges work.


2. Transom looked pretty good but is not perfect. I was able to open up all the access ports in the back and get a good view of most of the bottom of the transom. The lower center is the only area that showed any sign of not being perfect. The half closest to the outer skin was dark but not overly soft. I could scrape off some black residue and can't decide if it's mold or maybe oil?
The boat hasn't been in the water since Aug '19(when owner got new boat)and has been in storage since then so I can't see how it would still be wet from water which has me thinking(hope)it could be oil soaked in. Either way how long do you think a transom with a little softness like I described will last before it needs to be replaced? I will keep it covered when not in use and will try my best to get it dried if it gets wet.
Is there anything I could spray on the wood to slow down what has already started?


I could get some pictures of the transom area tomorrow if that would help.


ETA. I got the boat for a decent price so have some room for repairs before it becomes a money pit LOL.

[REW]

1. If the tach quit working, you need to check the power voltage as well as checking for the pulse signal from the alternator getting to the tach.

If you look at the back of the tach, you will have a ground or - 12 volt connection, a + 12 volt connection that will normally be enabled with the turn of the ignition switch. i.e. the + 12 volts to the tach will come from the switched side of the ignition switch.

Finally, there is an alternator signal that comes from the alternator coils under the flywheel on the motor. If you remove the cowl, you will see a wire that comes from under the flywheel and should come out to the side or bottom of the engine - which is then plugged into the wiring harness that runs to the throttle - console assembly. Then, off of that assembly you should have a wire that runs to the pulse signal connection on the back of the tachometer.

2. If the speedometer doesn't work, you need to do a bit of checking. The typical speedometer works on the principle of a bourdon pressure gauge. i.e. when water pressure pushes against the inlet for the speedometer pick up tube, that pressure is connected to the speedometer via a rubber hose. Then, on the back of the speedometer is a hose bib to which the hose is attached. Then, on the inside of the bourdon pressure gauge - when the air pressure that comes up the line from the water pressure pushing on the air in the hose, the pressure gauge expands due to the pressure. This expansion causes the speedometer to rotate.

A common cause of a speedometer failure is a missing, or broken hose between the pickup tube and the speedometer.

Depending on the motor, there is a chance that the pickup is in the lower unit of the outboard motor. If that is the case, there is a good chance that the front mounted pickup hole in the lower unit of the motor is plugged. Or, if you don't have a motor pick up tube, you may have a speedometer pitot tube mounted on the bottom of the transom. So, if that is the case, look for a pitot tube pickup on the lower edge of the transom. If you have a pitot pickup tube on the lower edge of the transom - look to check that you have a speedometer tube connected to the pitot tube and have it run to the speedometer.

An example:
https://www.myinboardmarine.com/prod...1&currency=USD

Here is a video that covers the installation of a tachometer:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSPWOyzuBMQ

Good luck

[REW]

By the way, what motor is on the boat?

Also, take a picture of the back of the boat, as well as the front edge of the lower unit of the motor.

Also, if you have any small rubber hoses coming from the motor take a picture of that.

Also, take a picture of the back side of the tachometer.

Also, take a picture of the engine with the cowl off the motor.

Post the pictures and we will see what we will see.

Take care

[Ltrain]

Rew has you pretty squared away with the speedo / tach guages.
In my opinion speedometers were never that good to begin with . Get your speed off your gps/sonar unit. I wouldn't bother with the speedo but the tachometer is a must fix, you'll need it to properly trim out and if and when your replacing props, plus it gives you an indication how engine is running. If your wiring is correct , there are other problems that could be present. On a boat of mine i noticed i had an erratic tach, turned out under my motor cowl the wire getting the signal was connected to a voltage regulator, that wire became loose causing arching and melted my regulator. Replaced regulator, tightened the wires and tach worked ever since, still is ,its my brothers now.

Now about your transom, your probably not going to like this but it could very well be shot. If it's black at the bottom its leaking from up above. That moisture is because it can't dry out, it sits in the wood and causes decay. If its in the middle, its probably your engine mounting bolts. Pull them one by one, check the holes, reseal threads with 3m 4200. Do one at a time . My guess is that wood is mush, some water might even drip out, it'll be black. Now I hope for your sake it's not but be prepared.
Black wood for me on a transom is a deal breaker, unless the cost of the new transom was negotiated into the price. That's neither here nor there though as you own the boat now .I bought my last two boats with bad transoms, not the end if the world, plus when it's fixed you can have the peace of mind that's its good for the next 20 years if you had it done right. To get it done right is going to cost you around 2-3 thousand though, that's about the going rate.

Hopefully the wood around your mounting bolts is okay, if that's the case, your not in terrible shape. But remember no softness is tolerable. I hope i didn't paint too grim of a picture but better to be prepared for the worst.

[gunner76]

Originally Posted by REW

By the way, what motor is on the boat?

Also, take a picture of the back of the boat, as well as the front edge of the lower unit of the motor.

Also, if you have any small rubber hoses coming from the motor take a picture of that.

Also, take a picture of the back side of the tachometer.

Also, take a picture of the engine with the cowl off the motor.

Post the pictures and we will see what we will see.

Take care

The motor is a 2003 Yamaha F80b. I'll get some pictures but I won't be able to post them up until this evening. There is nothing in the back of the boat for a speedometer so I'm pretty sure everything is coming from the motor itself.

[gunner76]

Originally Posted by ltrain

Rew has you pretty squared away with the speedo / tach guages.
In my opinion speedometers were never that good to begin with . Get your speed off your gps/sonar unit. I wouldn't bother with the speedo but the tachometer is a must fix, you'll need it to properly trim out and if and when your replacing props, plus it gives you an indication how engine is running. If your wiring is correct , there are other problems that could be present. On a boat of mine i noticed i had an erratic tach, turned out under my motor cowl the wire getting the signal was connected to a voltage regulator, that wire became loose causing arching and melted my regulator. Replaced regulator, tightened the wires and tach worked ever since, still is ,its my brothers now.

Now about your transom, your probably not going to like this but it could very well be shot. If it's black at the bottom its leaking from up above. That moisture is because it can't dry out, it sits in the wood and causes decay. If its in the middle, its probably your engine mounting bolts. Pull them one by one, check the holes, reseal threads with 3m 4200. Do one at a time . My guess is that wood is mush, some water might even drip out, it'll be black. Now I hope for your sake it's not but be prepared.
Black wood for me on a transom is a deal breaker, unless the cost of the new transom was negotiated into the price. That's neither here nor there though as you own the boat now .I bought my last two boats with bad transoms, not the end if the world, plus when it's fixed you can have the peace of mind that's its good for the next 20 years if you had it done right. To get it done right is going to cost you around 2-3 thousand though, that's about the going rate.

Hopefully the wood around your mounting bolts is okay, if that's the case, your not in terrible shape. But remember no softness is tolerable. I hope i didn't paint too grim of a picture but better to be prepared for the worst.

Thanks. I'll get some of that sealant and pull the bolts to look. I got a good deal on the boat but having to replace the transom right away would probably put me a little over the value of the boat. It wouldn't be the end of the world but would negate the deal I thought I got.

I lifted the motor up and tried to rock it and it was solid so I thought maybe the discoloration was limited to the bottom from maybe water getting in from rain since the cover doesn't protect that area the best.


ETA. The owner did say he had to replace the voltage regulator a few years ago.

[Ltrain]

Originally Posted by gunner76

Thanks. I'll get some of that sealant and pull the bolts to look. I got a good deal on the boat but having to replace the transom right away would probably put me a little over the value of the boat. It wouldn't be the end of the world but would negate the deal I thought I got.

I lifted the motor up and tried to rock it and it was solid so I thought maybe the discoloration was limited to the bottom from maybe water getting in from rain since the cover doesn't protect that area the best.

That discoloration very well may be that too, the inspection on the bolt hole condition should give you a good indication. Just wanted to let you know what you might be up against.
What i like to do for a good transom test is jack up the rear sides of the trailer and put them on jack stands, trim up motor to 45° and then lean heavily, or even stand on back of motor leg, and bounce a bit. Transom should not flex. If it visibly flexes, its not good.Best to have another pair of eyes there or better yet ,get a buddy to do the bouncing so you could watch the transom yourself. Jacking up the trailer takes the springs out of the equation and isolates the downward force solely on the transom.

[gunner76]

Update. Found some good and bad.

There is a hose running down the backside of the motor shaft going into the lower unit that it's cut in two and had a chunk missing. I'm guessing that runs the speedometer, but can't figure out why it's run the way it is because it's really close to a pinch point. It appears to be the factory routing location though.
I haven't looked at the tach yet.

For the bad news the transom is worse than I thought. I noticed the lower motor bolts were loose and when I tightened them they did snug up but the head started pulling through the wood. I only used a short hand combo wrench so I didn't put that much force on it. The top bolts were tight and I couldn't get them any tighter than they were.
I started pulling all the top cover screws and most were tight but a couple had rotten wood underneath, those were where the wave wackers are mounted.

ETA. I pulled one of the lower motor bolts out and the wood is soft most of the way through. No water came out and the wood didn't crumble out but it's soft. Right now the transom would come out in one piece easily, not sure if I should run it this year then fix or fix it now

[Ltrain]

Originally Posted by gunner76

Update. Found some good and bad.

There is a hose running down the backside of the motor shaft going into the lower unit that it's cut in two and had a chunk missing. I'm guessing that runs the speedometer, but can't figure out why it's run the way it is because it's really close to a pinch point. It appears to be the factory routing location though.
I haven't looked at the tach yet.

For the bad news the transom is worse than I thought. I noticed the lower motor bolts were loose and when I tightened them they did snug up but the head started pulling through the wood. I only used a short hand combo wrench so I didn't put that much force on it. The top bolts were tight and I couldn't get them any tighter than they were.
I started pulling all the top cover screws and most were tight but a couple had rotten wood underneath, those were where the wave wackers are mounted.

Da*n, wish it could have been better news for you. If i was in your shoes, that boat doesn't touch the water until that transom is new, it's way too far gone to chance it. Frustrating yes, but silver lining time- find a reputable shop and that transom is good for decades. Of course it's going to cost, it's a big investment but it is good not only for the boats overall integrity but also for resale value down the road. A little more bad news- transom jobs are mostly winter projects for marinas, spring and fall is for getting them ready, then putting them away. Summer maybe depending on marinas in season work load, they might be able to fit you in. Of course this is not a normal year you may be able to get right in, who knows. Best of luck, you might be a little down now but you'll feel great when its done.

[Ltrain]

. I pulled one of the lower motor bolts out and the wood is soft most of the way through. No water came out and the wood didn't crumble out but it's soft. Right now the transom would come out in one piece easily, not sure if I should run it this year then fix or fix it now

No way,no how-please don't run it. What happens is the transom weakens and no longer is structurally sound, now the force has to be absorbed somewhere. You'll start tearing your top cap and then the corners start ripping, and maybe the back skin, and you definitely don't want that. I know it's a bitter pill to swallow but hey this year sucks anyway, get it done right, the first time. If you lose this season so be it, use the time to fix everything thing else on the boat. It's a used boat, there's always something. Best of luck, keep us updated on the repair.