Installing Trim Tabs on 2019 Alumacraft Competitor 205

[LuvMyLabs]

Wondering if anybody has installed trim tabs on these boats. If you have I a few questions.

1) Did you use Stainless Steel Tabs or Aluminum Tabs?
2) Did you use a backing plate on the inside of the transom?
3) Did you just use screws and did you step the size of the screws?

I don't have any performance issues but our use case would really benefit from the use of Trim Tabs

[REW]

Luv,
If you want to install tabs, by all means go for it.
Your choice on the use of stainless or aluminum. As long as the tabs are sized for the boat, I expect that either material will work fine.

With respect to mounting the tabs.

In many boats, it is next to impossible to access the inside of the transom near the bottom of the boat. If you could there would certainly be nothing wrong with using a backing board.

But, if you do have access and want to use a backing board - do NOT use wood for a backing board.
With an aluminum transom, the ideal backing board would be a piece of 1/4 - 3/8th thick solid aluminum. Then, it would be nice to simply drill and tap holes in the transom and backing board and use stainless machine screws of the appropriate size.

If you do use stainless screws, you need a sufficient quantity and of a sufficient size to hold the tab.
If you use screws, normally you use a screw about every two to three inches. Then, you want to drill a pilot hole about 1/3rd the size of the intended screw, screw it in carefully, and do not over tighten it and strip it out. Do it once to insure that the threads have been put into the transom and then - without really making it tight, remove the screw, give it a good application of water proofing compound in the hole and on the screw and do a permanent installation of the screw.
Normally you would get all of the screws loosely in place remove them, water proof everything and then put everything back in with all of the holes filled and the screws coated for the final installation.

p.s.
If you do install tabs, do NOT instal the tabs so that the underside is flush with the bottom of the hull.
Often the directions will tell you to do this. But if you do, the tabs will be dragging even when retracted and will slow down the top speed of the boat.

Rather install the tabs so that the bottom of the tabs is at least 1 inch and possibly higher above the bottom of the transom.

A hull is always down into the water a bit, even when running at top speed. If you want the tabs to be completely free of the water when running light and fast you need to have the tabs a bit above the bottom of the hull in the retracted position.

Best wishes.

[T Mac]

Why?
Normally not needed on a boat that size and they are expensive.
What is it that you hope to gain ?

[That Minnesota guy]

Originally Posted by T Mac

Why?
Normally not needed on a boat that size and they are expensive.
What is it that you hope to gain ?

I agree. I'm sure they have their place for the tournament guys running large distances in big water. But for the average Joe with a average boat fishing average water I think they would be over-kill. But, I will hand it to the marketing guys....they make it sound like they solve all the worlds problems.

[REW]

Actually, in todays world there are a lot of folks putting trim tabs on 20 foot boats.

Much quicker on plane.
Virtually no bow lift when advancing the throttle.
Ability to keep the bow down at slower speeds.
Ability to work big wave much more easily and with more control.

By all means, if you have the where with all to get the tabs, by all means put them on and enjoy their benefits.

Take care

[LuvMyLabs]

Hi REW,

Thank you for the great input!! I looked at my boat again on Saturday while I was sulking during a snow storm HAHA!

I also got some great input from a fella that put them on his Alumacraft, it's a TPro I think so different model. He was able to get to the inside of the transom buy cutting out foam and replacing it with new foam when he was done the install.

I don't have that option as my splash well covers the section I would need to get to. So my only option is to screw. If I could do a backing plate in I would have no concerns about installing tabs.

On the other hand they do hang 220 hp and 9.9 kickers off these transoms so they must be tough! I just have to decide if I want to take the risk.

You are totally on point with the benefits of trim tabs from what I've read. All these points are exactly why I'm thinking about adding them.

Originally Posted by REW

Actually, in todays world there are a lot of folks putting trim tabs on 20 foot boats.

Much quicker on plane.
Virtually no bow lift when advancing the throttle.
Ability to keep the bow down at slower speeds.
Ability to work big wave much more easily and with more control.

By all means, if you have the where with all to get the tabs, by all means put them on and enjoy their benefits.

Take care

[boisie]

You might want to check with Alumacraft about installing trim tabs. I remember reading in another thread where they told an Alumacraft owner that they would not warranty his boat if trim tabs were installed. Don't know if they gave a reason. Doesn't make much sense to me.

[LuvMyLabs]

I have and their response was. If it's an accessory not installed by the factory it would void the warranty. So really they could pull that card on a transducer installation as well, I suppose.

For me considering the issues I had with my first 2019 Comp 205 Tiller that I returned for another hull. Which my dealer facilitated from another dealer not Alumacraft before it even touched the water. Took 3 months and in that time and to date I still haven't got a response from Alumacraft.

I'm sure this company would fight all the way for any kind of serious warranty claim, tabs or not.

Long story short, Love the boat, hate company!

[REW]

Luv,
I put trim tabs on my first aluminum boat to help with a porpoising problem which they completely solved.

I expect that the transom is similar to yours. I used stainless steel screws every two inches on the tabs and they worked fine, and never leaked.

I drilled all of the pilot holes by first putting a screw in the first and last hole after drilling pilot holes. Those screws held the tab in place to drill the rest of the pilot holes.

Then, I removed the tab, put waterproofing in each hole and on the boat and on the back of the tab. Then, putting water proofing on each screw, put each screw in and got it just tight and stopped. You do not want to strip the hole.

This is one place where a cordless drill really shines. Set the clutch on a low setting and as required increase the clutch torque settings until you just get the screw tight before it starts to slip. This will prevent stripping out the screw in the transom material.

You might do some testing on a similar thickness of aluminum as your transom to get the clutch dialed in perfectly before you start on your boat.

Best wishes

[LuvMyLabs]

Hey Rew,

Great tip on the drill!!

I agree I don't think a backing board is really needed where the tab screws to the transom. I think the stress would be at the top where the actuator is mounded.

I'm going to have to do some measuring to see if I can get to where the actuator will mount. I would really like to thru bolt that part.

I'm going to email Lenco and see if they have a template they can email me, so I can check fit.

I may have to cut out some foam but the foam can be easily replaced, that's the easy part haha!