Cracked transom, 1993 Pro-V 1775

[Homer]

Got back from fishing yesterday and noticed a crack in my transom near the motor mount. There is also a much smaller crack starting on the opposite (starboard) side. Here are a couple of pictures of the big crack:

http://home.comcast.net/~sdilks237372mi/Left_Side_1.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~sdilks237372mi/Left_Side_3.jpg

Anyone have any idea on what it is involved in fixing this? There's no Lund dealer near me, but there are a couple of boat service places about 45 minutes away. I'd like some idea of what to expect before taking it somewhere.

I'm to the point where I was considering a new boat anyway, but assume that the cost of repairs will more than pay for themselves in terms of resale value. That may depend on the cost to fix it, though. Thanks in advance for any input.

[boat nut]

I hate to sound doom and gloom, but that looks pretty bad. It appears from the photo that rotten wood is sticking out from that crack. I'm thinkin' you need a new transom. Good luck!

[Shellback]

I agree with boat nut, looks like you need the transom core replaced. They can probably weld the cracks up when they change the core.

[bountyhunters]

take it to a boat dealer ,or a good body shop ,get the scoop on fixing it .. I have the same boat 1993 pro v 1775 side console ,I WILL NOT GIVE HER UP .

[Box]

Wouldn't something like that be covered under the lifetime warranty? I am just wondering. Good luck in getting it fixed, as that is a good boat and it would certainly help in resale, or if you keep it.

We had crack in a 82 Alumacraft hull (now a duck boat) and we sandwiched it between two layers of alum sheets and real rivets. Solid as heck, but a bit ugly ;) It's "character"!

-Box

https://www.walleyecentral.com/photop...&ppuser=103808

I'd normally say take it to a dealer for assessment, but you mentioned not having one nearby. I does look serious, no question.
Give Lund a call and hopefully they can steer you to somebody who will be able to do that.
1-218-285-2235

[CrappieDay]

I just had a rotten transom on my '89 Pro-V. Lund told me about 20 hours to fix it at $80/hr. That was just to replace the transom, that didn't include detaching and re-rigging the motor. I thought it would probably be close to $2000 with the transom, motor and transportation. I decided to tackle the job myself. There was a lady (can't remember her name) in Lund customer service that was very helpful at explaining what I had to do to replace the transom myself. It was a pretty big job, I should have logged my hours, but total I was probably around 50 or so. The hardest part of the whole job was getting the old wood out. It was rotten so I couldn't pull it out easily. I ended up using an 18" spade wood bit and chewing up a bunch of wood in the middle. Then I took a pry bar and pushed the wood from the end of the transom to the middle where there was a little more room and the wood could be pulled easily. I took a lot of time waterproofing my new wood and made sure I had a good sealant in the holes and around the heads of all the bolts. I've ran the boat quite a bit this year and several times in rough water. The transom is still rock solid. It took many weekends over the winter and I lost some spring fishing time, but I thought it was worth it. I really didn't want to put $2000 in that old of a boat, and I wasn't ready for a new one yet. Good luck in your decision. If you decide to do it yourself, I'll try to let you know some of the problems I ran into and how I got around them.

[REW]

I agree with this post.
With a crack in the metal covering of the transom; that would have been caused by flexing. Flexing would have occurred; because the wood has rotted behind the metal and is allowing the flex to occur.

The fix is simple. Pull the motor - pull of the top cap, pull or grind out the old wood. Then, weld up the exterior metal using a heli arc welder. Repaint the metal. Then, install the new transom. Drill mounting holes for the motor etc. Make sure that you completely waterproof the face - back, top, bottom and sides of the transom before installing. After drilling any holes for motor mounts, make sure to waterproof the interior of the holes before running bolts in.

A good way to waterproof the transom, is to get a couple of gallons of thompsons waterproofing, and weight the transom down in a flat pan and let it sit for a week or so.. This will allow the waterproofing to reallly seal up the wood. It would be nice if you did a trial fit with the transom - drilled the holes, and then waterproofed the transom and holes - all at the same time.

When you mount the motor, be sure to put good marine sealant around all of the bolts and before installing the bolts to insure that all of the holes are well sealed.
It will be good as new - cost about $200 and between 20 - 100 hours of labor.

Take care.
REW

Just went through this with my ProV. Replaced with marine grade lumber, and used west coast epoxy to seal it up. Total cost was 580.00 and lots of labor but I would do it again. Lund wanted $3400

Only concerns I have are the paint as the new bolts on the back look funny. I touched each with 3m 5200. THis is the only sealant I would use on this job....be prepared for lots of work, bloody knuckles, and lots of smiles when you are done as the boat will run awesome, you save a ton of money and know it is done the best it can....One thing I would do next time though is go with a composite transom....I found some great leads on the net, but was well into June and still had not had mine done so I went with the marine plywood.....
good luck!

[bountyhunters]

BOY!!!!! what a great web site ,all this help from across the country .. if it was my boat I:D be in the shop pulling wood .take your time ,and it;ll look like new ,