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#1
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I’m in the process of redoing the transom in my 1997 Lund Tyee Grand sport. I bought the boat used form the original owner. Stored inside. Beautifully taken care of and maintained. I was told the transom was replaced by a very well known shop in Chicagoland area that does many transoms. It also had a custom aluminum motor plate put on. Which was cracked in half due to not being welded properly. Well come to find out, transom was never done. The “replacement” consisted of pouring some sort of dry rot “fix” down the top caps. Original owner was charged for a transom replacement. He got ripped off basically. I’m more mad that he got ripped off than me having to do the transom.
Any boat with wood in will rot eventually if not sealed properly. When this person put the new motor on they also did a piss poor job of sealing any bolts and screws. I’m making this thread to document my process of doing the transom replacement. Maybe it will help someone in the future. It’s a big job. But totally doable if you can pull the engine off and work with your hands. I got quotes of $3000-$3800 to have this done. I laughed at these people. But after doing the job the right way. I see I’ll have a solid 40 hours at least in it. I’m going above and beyond what any shop would do though. Between sanding everything and applying Zinc Chromate and re painting the whole back of the boat including the bilge area. I also replaced all the live well hoses, clamps and pumps. And also new bilge pumps, hoses and clamps. It will be better than new. I’m doing everything I can while it’s apart. I want this boat to last a very long time and feel comfortable selling it to someone else in the future. One of the big issues on this style Lund is you have to cut off the factory welded on gunnel caps to remove and install transom board. I will weld these back on as Lund had them. I will continued add pictures as process in this thread as I continue on. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fd5e28bb83.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...628c284379.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f9be0d94cd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ef1df8fffc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ac612b7d2d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d4a8204c0f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0137bfddeb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dcda07a0f6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...77d81217d9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2083b401d4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8b183d7b01.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#2
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Until I saw the last photo, I was going to say the transom doesn't look too bad!
Looks like you have a big job ahead, but have it well in hand. Maybe you have, but I would check the flooring in the rear. If needed, now would be a good time to replace it also. Good luck with your project!
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Wall-i-Lama |
#3
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Lund actually drills the rivets out of the gunnels and lifts them up....You really only need to cut one side you can get the new board in by going kitty corner(its a tight fit but it will go) that's what I did.
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#4
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Very cool...hope I never have to do this!
Marty |
#5
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How did the custom motor plate crack in half? It appears to be cut from a sheet of plate stock.
Thanks, HRG
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"I've got a car with a trailer hitch, and a pocket full of money. Do you want to sell that boat today, or not?" My Mentor, Bill Michalek, circa 1975 |
#6
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Floor and all other wood is good for now. I’ve pulled up the center section a few times to check stuff. I might do floors next winter as I want to get rid of the carpet and do something easier to clean. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#7
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The weld is broke all the way across. It goes on both sides of the transom. Two pieces welded together. Glad I’m going through everything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#8
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If they welded the aluminum plate across the top, it was likely to keep the rotten transom from collapsing when tightening the motor down. This wouldn't be needed for any boat with a good transom. If the PO paid for a transom replacement and got this band-aid then yes, he was ripped off.
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#9
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I am in the middle of the same job on my crestliner right now. I ran into the same issue with the corners of the transom. Mine go all the way, edge to edge and I had to cut the corners off as well.
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#10
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A few pictures of progress. Splash well, bilge area and transom primed with the good Zinc Chromate. Transom board has 4 coats of West System 2 part epoxy. This board is not ever gonna rot. That stuff drys so thick and hard. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7daedf1ab4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...731aaabaa6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e6f6f147e2.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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