Livewell valve

[thump55]

My livewell was filling slowly yesterday...maybe half as much as normal and flow was not even. Motor was running steady, but flow was pulsing/variable.

When I went to drain it, the valve would not activate and water will not drain.

I didn't have time to mess with it last night, but just wondering if the two issues might be related and any pointers on where to look first.

This was the first time using the livewell this year, and boat is kept in heated shed so nothing froze over winter.

This is the type of switch I have:

[Johnboy]

The cable on mine was seized up from a lack of lubrication. I did everything I could to free it up. I even purchased a device that attaches to a the cable and a aerosol can of penetrating oil.
I had to replace both the cable and the valve because a new cable wouldn't fit the valve.
Here is the luber I used. I bought it on ebay.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0182

[Deephaven]

I'd backflush it first, but I am in your boat. 2 of the 3 of mine need replacement.

[Like2Fish]

A question for you. Does the valve cable move freely? If it does maybe all you need to do is replace or clean the flappers in the valve. I've done this a few times on my 13 year old boat. In my case the valve was not holding water in the livewell when the boat was on the trailer. Flowrite sells a repair kit for about $12.

https://store.flow-rite.com/valve-re...ngmpa-060.html

[thump55]

It looks like the cable is shot (at least). The plastic sheath broke just behind the switch...not sure why...possibly cable wasn't moving freely. Sure wish we could make things from metal instead of plastic all the time.

I can barely get at the valve itself from access holes in splashwell, but I can move the lever to open and close.

I can't believe how impossible it is to access the pumps on this boat.

Next step is to remove cable completely, measure, and get a new one I guess.

[Deephaven]

If it all works when you hand actuate it then it is the cable/switch. If it doesn't then it is the valve....although the cable could still be binding.

[Like2Fish]

Originally Posted by thump55

It looks like the cable is shot (at least). The plastic sheath broke just behind the switch...not sure why...possibly cable wasn't moving freely. Sure wish we could make things from metal instead of plastic all the time.

I can barely get at the valve itself from access holes in splashwell, but I can move the lever to open and close.

I can't believe how impossible it is to access the pumps on this boat.

Next step is to remove cable completely, measure, and get a new one I guess.

Yep, it was a pain to work on my valve too. It doesn't get any easier as you get older either. I think your in for a few choice words, some bloody knuckles, and sore knees while making this repair. I can say that from my own experience. I've found the customer service to be good at Flowrite. Give them a call and perhaps they can lend you some assistance with the necessary parts for your repair.

[thump55]

Originally Posted by Deephaven

If it all works when you hand actuate it then it is the cable/switch. If it doesn't then it is the valve....although the cable could still be binding.

Yeah, the valve works, but I'm not sure how easily it should move. I think it may have been partially closed when the plastic sheath broke, and that's why it wasn't filling properly.

If it was easier to get at, I'd just replace the valve and cable and be done with it, but I will have a hard enough time just doing the cable.

[Johnboy]

My valve is under the trolling motor battery boxes. I had to drill all the rivets out to be able to remove the boxes and all the framework that holds them.
A real nasty, time consuming job.
My replacement cable was not an exact length fit. I simply routed the new cable in such a way to allow it to fit.
I had to replace the valve because Alumacraft used an known brand when the boat was new.
Flowright cables a readily available on the internet.
I would recommend that you replace the valve to.

[Fin Bender]

Originally Posted by Johnboy

My valve is under the trolling motor battery boxes. I had to drill all the rivets out to be able to remove the boxes and all the framework that holds them.
A real nasty, time consuming job.
My replacement cable was not an exact length fit. I simply routed the new cable in such a way to allow it to fit.
I had to replace the valve because Alumacraft used an known brand when the boat was new.
Flowright cables a readily available on the internet.
I would recommend that you replace the valve to.

My valve uses the quick-lock fitting system, that made it easy to get in and out. My battery trays are installed with screws, and the boat frame work that supports the battery trays has plenty of access to get at valve. I found it a pretty easy job on my '12 Alumacraft. The hardest part was lifting out the batteries.