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Need Input on 2005 Ram diesel please. - Page 2 - Walleye Message Central
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  #11  
Old 10-16-2020, 02:44 PM
djcoop52 djcoop52 is offline
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Stay on top of the maintenance and it will last you a very long time and the power will be impressive to what you are used to. Good luck
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  #12  
Old 10-16-2020, 07:45 PM
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tate05 tate05 is offline
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Congrats. That thing isnít even broken in yet. Make sure you join the Cummins forum so you can get your high mileage badges in a few years.


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  #13  
Old 10-16-2020, 08:19 PM
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fishin10 fishin10 is offline
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You got a winner!!!!!
My dad purchased a 1973 Ford F 250 360V8 4sp 2wd new in October 1972. The truck never saw snow, very few miles on non pavement roads, always garaged. When he died in April 1993, the truck was still in showroom condition, people were showing up at my mom's place with absurd amounts of cash trying to by it. She sold it for twice what he paid for it.
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  #14  
Old 10-18-2020, 08:02 PM
EasternWashingtonBoater EasternWashingtonBoater is offline
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Did $23K include the camper?

It is a higher price for an old truck ... $12k would have been incredible, $23K isn't (standard cab too) but with 15K miles it's a still a great deal - just not crazy good as it seemed at first!!

It is so easy to change the oil yourself and you should. And always check the oil. Trust no-one unless you've established they can be.

When I change my oil on my 2004.5 (almost same as yours), I always take the turbo boot off so I have full access to the filter from up top - I also installed a Fumoto valve so all I have to do is flip the petcock, drain, disconnect turbo boot, remove oil filter, close petcock, new filter, refill, reinstall boot. The longest wait is time-to-drain.

Every few tanks, drain the diesel filter bowl - this will get the water collected by the water separator out. You do this by reaching in beneath the injector rails and flipping the yellow lever at the bottom of the filter container and let the diesel drain into a catch bucket. After it's drained out, flip the lever back, and bump the starter (turn key but don't let the truck crank over) to fill the filter bowl. I have had some weird behavior go away by doing this drain procedure!

And lastly, avoid tuners. Let the truck run stock and the transmission will last the life of the truck. If you do want try a tuner, you can get a 3805 FLASHPAQ tuner on eBay (one sold recently for just $2) - this will let you experience fuel-on-demand as opposed to air-before-fuel - in other words, it will let you make black clouds. The 3805's advantage is it's not all that hard on a stock 48RE transmission. I know someone who had only a shift kit installed (updated shifting hydraulics) and one of these 3805 tuners years ago and his transmission hasn't had any problems since. I run stock because I like a clean diesel.

Last edited by EasternWashingtonBoater; 10-18-2020 at 08:24 PM.
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  #15  
Old 10-19-2020, 09:46 AM
MikeG1 MikeG1 is offline
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Much, much thanks to all.

I agree about the price difference. Between the time we first talked and when he did the deal he must have done some research. 23k included camper. I’m happy. Seems like a reasonable price given the mileage. I feel like I could get 23 out of the package so not much risk.

I Appreciate all guidance given. No tuners planned, just want a good towing truck.

I’ll be 64 this year, purchased my retirement boat which is due in March.... warrior 193...and I just hope I can get a few good years towing and fishing before my name is called....

Thanks again to all you great WC contributors, your thoughts are invaluable.
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  #16  
Old 10-20-2020, 08:38 PM
grizzlyone grizzlyone is offline
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if it starts to puff white smoke when you start it or at idle get the injectors checked, or it will ruin the motor. had a motor go bad with less than 100,000 and steoson just had to replace motor at 156,000 miles. motor replaced was 10,000 bucks. 2005 cummins motors are good for this
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